Cockpit not draining

bikerbill

bikerbill

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I was at my boat today to check for damage after the storms. The cockpit was half full with water and not draining away. On closer inspection, I noticed some potential drainage problems. Hope I can explain this properly. Starting from the hull there is a seacock just off the centre of the hull. There is an on / off valve attached, of which the handle has rotted off in the open position. From there, a single hose is connected to a Y piece with hoses attached to both cockpit drains. I was told by somebody at the Marina that any water should drain from the cockpit out of the boat and not the way it is set up just now, as it will be very slow draining. Not too good if the boat got swamped by a few large waves. :eek:

I considered fitting thru hull fittings to each side of the boat above the waterline, which could be awkward as the hull has a slight curve, so maybe the hull fittings may not sit flush with the hull. Perhaps it may be best to re-route drain hoses to the stern with NRV's. What are your views?

Thanks in advance.
 
Big pipes are better, but the setup you describe is perfectly normal. Regardless of how well (or not) it copes with boarding waves, it ought to drain away rainwater with no bother at all. Most likely the hoses have got clogged up with dead leaves, moss, and other detritus. If it's out of the water then try blowing either air from a dinghy pump or water from a hose up through the seacock. Otherwise try the same things going downwards (which is a little less effective), bendy sink-unblocking tools, or even a good old-fashioned plunger. As a last resort you can disconnect the hoses inside (closing the valve first if still afloat).

Pete
 
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prv said:
Big pipes are better, but the setup you describe is perfectly normal. Regardless of how well (or not) it copes with boarding waves, it ought to drain away rainwater with no bother at all. Most likely the hoses have got clogged up with dead leaves, moss, and other detritus. If it's out of the water then try blowing either air from a dinghy pump or water from a hose up through the seacock. Otherwise try the same things going downwards (which is a little less effective), bendy sink-unblocking tools, or even a good old-fashioned plunger. As a last resort you can disconnect the hoses inside (closing the valve first if still afloat).

Pete
Click to expand...

Cheers Pete. You could be right, had to clear a few leaves from the bilges. Unfortunately the boat is still in the water so can't get under the boat. Could get the diving gear on I suppose. Can't close the valve either as it is in the open position and the effing handle has rotted off. Was going to transfer the handle from the bilge pump outlet, but was far too scared in case the valve broke or something, allowing the boat to fill rapidly with water :D
 
I'd think the shortest possible connections to individual exits would be the best arrangement using the largest practical diameter drains, hoses and seacocks.
No objection to combining the two provided it introduces no restriction although ideally the common section and outlet should be larger than the individual sections.

Some boats require the drains to be crossed.

You dont explain why yours were not draining. As Pete suggests leaves etc are a common problem when laid up ashore.
 
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the problem may be growth in the outlet, being underwater is always a problem for plumbing in a marine environment.

The system you describe is often used on coakpit drains that would otherwise need crossed drains because the cockpit fills with a little water when heeled over.

Installing crossed drains is no big problem, standard 100 mm UPVC pipe will do the job. Getting an even finish on a curved hole is not too hard either, just poke it through the hole before glueing and mark the outside, cut to shape and unstall.

Tip:
Taper the inside edge of the pipe for a neat finish and run a little bit of flow coat over the joint on the outside.
Some person will tell you that you can not fibreglass to the UPVC pipe and the hull, however if you hit the pipe with some heat from a blow amp or gas flame, the rapid heating causes small carbon balls to form on the surface about 5 mm apart, when you get this, stop heating that area and move on to the next. When cooled the small carbon deposits make classing over vety easy, and strong.

Good luck and fair winds. :)
 
1) Most cockpit drains a hose pipe will fit down, push it down and turn hose on wiggle hose till blockage clear...
2) Get a garden hose wrap a rag round it make a "o" ring seal on the deck fitting hold it there and blow through with water...
3) Do same with dinghy pump (this can be a bit messy)...
4) Do same from underneath next time boat is out of water...
5) Do thew same to sink drains at next opportunity, becareful not to redecorate cabin if you do it to a sink drain.
6) Its not been cold enough to freeze the drain has it?
 
oldsaltoz said:
the problem may be growth in the outlet, being underwater is always a problem for plumbing in a marine environment.

The system you describe is often used on coakpit drains that would otherwise need crossed drains because the cockpit fills with a little water when heeled over.

Installing crossed drains is no big problem, standard 100 mm UPVC pipe will do the job. Getting an even finish on a curved hole is not too hard either, just poke it through the hole before glueing and mark the outside, cut to shape and unstall.

Tip:
Taper the inside edge of the pipe for a neat finish and run a little bit of flow coat over the joint on the outside.
Some person will tell you that you can not fibreglass to the UPVC pipe and the hull, however if you hit the pipe with some heat from a blow amp or gas flame, the rapid heating causes small carbon balls to form on the surface about 5 mm apart, when you get this, stop heating that area and move on to the next. When cooled the small carbon deposits make classing over vety easy, and strong.

Good luck and fair winds. :)
Click to expand...



Not sure how insurers would view that method.
 
bikerbill said:
Starting from the hull there is a seacock just off the centre of the hull. There is an on / off valve attached, of which the handle has rotted off in the open position.
Click to expand...

A seacock and a valve, or a skin fitting and a valve? I can't see the point of valves for cockpit drains at the best of times; having two seems to be asking for even more trouble.
 
JumbleDuck said:
A seacock and a valve, or a skin fitting and a valve? I can't see the point of valves for cockpit drains at the best of times; having two seems to be asking for even more trouble.
Click to expand...

Seems BAU for Hurley 20 - mine has two separate valves, one for each cockpit drain - in fact replacing them is my #1 job for this winter... they drain quite well* but in winter when ashore I stick a bit of plastic mesh in the entry to keep leaves out but allow it to drain....

*didn't stop a previous owner sikaflexing in a piece of downpipe from the back of the cockpit to the transom - removing that is job #2 this winter... :(

PS. For the OP this may be of interest - Phil is a mate of mine and also a Hirley 20 owner: http://h20-ciaobella.blogspot.sk/2012/02/few-more-jobs-ticked-off.html
 
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VicS said:
I'd think the shortest possible connections to individual exits would be the best arrangement using the largest practical diameter drains, hoses and seacocks.
No objection to combining the two provided it introduces no restriction although ideally the common section and outlet should be larger than the individual sections.

Some boats require the drains to be crossed.

You dont explain why yours were not draining. As Pete suggests leaves etc are a common problem when laid up ashore.
Click to expand...

Why do they cross the hoses? Mine has that and it reduces a huge open space for storage...
I want to straighten them but what problem would this cause?
 
Woodlouse said:
Crossing the pipes reduces the chance of the cockpit filling from the drains whilst heeling.
Click to expand...

So if the cockpit had a raised wooden slatted floor then straightening the pipes then occasionally getting wet feet is the only problem?
 
My cockpit drains are crossed horizontally just below the sole and fed into vertical GRP tubes glassed into the hull. The tops of these tubes are above the waterline when level, so the hoses can be removed and the tubes rodded through. Not only leaves get in there, but mussels and weed grow in the protected environment.

Rob.
 
oldsaltoz said:
the problem may be growth in the outlet, being underwater is always a problem for plumbing in a marine environment.
Installing crossed drains is no big problem, standard 100 mm UPVC pipe will do the job. Getting an even finish on a curved hole is not too hard either, just poke it through the hole before glueing and mark the outside, cut to shape and unstall.
Click to expand...

Cheers oldsaltoz. With some help from the Hurley yahoo group, I found out that the cockpit drainage I described is what it should be. So going to fit larger cockpit drains with strainers to the cockpit floor.

onesea said:
1) Most cockpit drains a hose pipe will fit down, push it down and turn hose on wiggle hose till blockage clear...
2) Get a garden hose wrap a rag round it make a "o" ring seal on the deck fitting hold it there and blow through with water...
3) Do same with dinghy pump (this can be a bit messy)...
4) Do same from underneath next time boat is out of water...
5) Do thew same to sink drains at next opportunity, becareful not to redecorate cabin if you do it to a sink drain.
6) Its not been cold enough to freeze the drain has it?
Click to expand...

No, not freezing yet. Will try doing as you say first before I strip off the hoses ect and give everything a good clean again.

Fantasie 19 said:
Seems BAU for Hurley 20 - mine has two separate valves, one for each cockpit drain - in fact replacing them is my #1 job for this winter... they drain quite well* but in winter when ashore I stick a bit of plastic mesh in the entry to keep leaves out but allow it to drain....

*didn't stop a previous owner sikaflexing in a piece of downpipe from the back of the cockpit to the transom - removing that is job #2 this winter... :(

PS. For the OP this may be of interest - Phil is a mate of mine and also a Hirley 20 owner: http://h20-ciaobella.blogspot.sk/2012/02/few-more-jobs-ticked-off.html
Click to expand...
I should have thought about a mesh for the drains DOH. However, going to fit larger drains with strainers and thanks for the link.

JumbleDuck said:
A seacock and a valve, or a skin fitting and a valve? I can't see the point of valves for cockpit drains at the best of times; having two seems to be asking for even more trouble.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the confusion JumbleDuck, really need to get my terminology right :) I was meaning a thru hull skin fitting with a Ball valve attached. Was going to get a new one from B&Q later, but I've been told that valves should be DZR rated. Will need to check that out.
 
bikerbill said:
Cheers oldsaltoz. With some help from the Hurley yahoo group, I found out that the cockpit drainage I described is what it should be. So going to fit larger cockpit drains with strainers to the cockpit floor.



No, not freezing yet. Will try doing as you say first before I strip off the hoses ect and give everything a good clean again.


I should have thought about a mesh for the drains DOH. However, going to fit larger drains with strainers and thanks for the link.



Sorry for the confusion JumbleDuck, really need to get my terminology right :) I was meaning a thru hull skin fitting with a Ball valve attached. Was going to get a new one from B&Q later, but I've been told that valves should be DZR rated. Will need to check that out.
Click to expand...

You can get the new fittings you require from ASAP supplies http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/
 
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