Cleaning the prop and shaft

MJWB

Active member
Joined
24 May 2019
Messages
290
Location
Yorkshire coast
Visit site
Six months in the water andwhen she is lifted the propeller and shaft have a considerable amount of what looks like calcium (ish) deposits on them. I assume its shell like growth from some happy little underwater dwellers. Whats the best way to clean and minimumise reoccurance please. Last year I just sanded back but I'm concerned that all I'm doing is keying the surface for the stuff to get a better grip next time. Advice most welcome please.
 

Plum

Well-known member
Joined
6 Jun 2001
Messages
4,614
Location
UK East Coast
Visit site
Six months in the water andwhen she is lifted the propeller and shaft have a considerable amount of what looks like calcium (ish) deposits on them. I assume its shell like growth from some happy little underwater dwellers. Whats the best way to clean and minimumise reoccurance please. Last year I just sanded back but I'm concerned that all I'm doing is keying the surface for the stuff to get a better grip next time. Advice most welcome please.
Brick acid. I buy mine from Toolstation. It does not protect from regrowth but you are not abrading the surface so if you start with a super fine surface that's what you end up with.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

johnalison

Well-known member
Joined
14 Feb 2007
Messages
41,362
Location
Essex
Visit site
I bought some brick acid from a similar place locally and the bloke was very hesitant about it and only let me have it ex trade because it was only five litres.
 

Plum

Well-known member
Joined
6 Jun 2001
Messages
4,614
Location
UK East Coast
Visit site
Thanks I've just looked up on there. Will pick some up tomorrow.
I rig up a level metal tray under the prop, pour a few cupfulls of acid in the tray then use a brush to repeatedly brush the acid onto the prop allowing the drips to return to the tray and rotating the prop as you go. If the acid starts to loose its effectiveness, just replace with fresh, very unlikely to use more than 1/2 litre so your 5 litre container will last a very long time. Don't forget the PPE and I always have a water hose at the ready just in case you get any acid in the wrong place.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

VicS

Well-known member
Joined
13 Jul 2002
Messages
48,562
Visit site
Thanks I've just looked up on there. Will pick some up tomorrow.
Make sure what you buy is hydrochloric acid based, eg Bostik Cementone Brick and Patio Cleaner. Not all brick cleaners are HCl based.
Check the label and read the Safety Data sheet.

A plastic tray would be a better choice than a metal one, eg an old washing up bowl or a greenhouse gravel tray
 
Last edited:

IanCC

Active member
Joined
14 Oct 2019
Messages
617
Visit site
Six months in the water andwhen she is lifted the propeller and shaft have a considerable amount of what looks like calcium (ish) deposits on them. I assume its shell like growth from some happy little underwater dwellers. Whats the best way to clean and minimumise reoccurance please. Last year I just sanded back but I'm concerned that all I'm doing is keying the surface for the stuff to get a better grip next time. Advice most welcome please.
How do you stop it happening?
Someone suggested to me you divert some hot water from the anti syphon down through the stern tube.
The stuff made my shaft vibrate a lot.
 

Neeves

Well-known member
Joined
20 Nov 2011
Messages
13,339
Location
Sydney, Australia.
Visit site
Your next question will be - what to use to protect the prop from further growth as no matter what you do leaving the people untreated is a recipes for a fouled prop.

Your choice is Trilux (which is not very effective), Velox which has good reports and PropSpeed or PropOne (which are a silicone based product - and highly rated for MoBos). Trilux contains similar active ingredients to Velox, so they work to a greater or lessor extent on the same chemistry - Trilux has less concentrations. I believe there is also a aerosol based product - but I don't know its name nor much about it. For some reason the silicone option is more common on MoBos and Velox on yachts - neither are cheap.

Application of anything to a prop, except fouling organisms, needs to be completed with care following the instructions precisely - or everything, except the fouling - falls off.

Most product for props needs a rough surface for the primer to key to - your use of acid to protect the surface of the prop is unneccessary. I clean the prop with a stainless steel brush or a paint stripper abrasive pad on an angle grinder (it sort of looks like a resin and abrasive saturated kitchen scrubber). If you have the time I'd take the prop off, take it home and treat it there - its more comfortable and you can take your time. But if you are under pressure to get the yacht back in the water - do it in situ.

Jonathan
 

LONG_KEELER

Well-known member
Joined
21 Jul 2009
Messages
3,721
Location
East Coast
Visit site
After cleaning and rubbing down with fine wet & dry I coat my prop. with underwater grease. Hardly any fouling over6 months, and cheap ! Could also try lanolin.
Stove black and lanolin were popular for props about 20 year's ago. Neither seemed to catch on though. A friend fortified his antifoul with curry granules but it just caused more drag .
 

Neeves

Well-known member
Joined
20 Nov 2011
Messages
13,339
Location
Sydney, Australia.
Visit site
Ive read that some are trying copper plating the prop. Sounds interesting maybe PBO should do an article on this. Apparently its reasonably easy to do yourself.
Maybe if you had a subscription to one of the family of magazines, PBO, YM et al or used the search function you would find the work has been completed, documented in detail and discussed on this illustrious forum.

This will sound critical - but who do you think pays for the experimental work to answer your queries and then provide (indirectly) the detail you require.

One day when all the print magazines have collapsed no-one will do the work.......

If you cannot be bothered to use the search functions ..... why should we bother to help you.

As I said this will sound critical

Some one has to take their prop off, take it to an electro platter, discuss what needs done. pay electro plater, collect prop, attach to shaft (unable to use vessel whilst work is done) measure fouling, write report, check editing, receive paltry payment. This all needs motivation, money is not really sufficient

And then people cannot be bothered to use the search function....though it is interesting you do know people have been trying copper plating....maybe all is not yet lost.....?

It all beggars belief

Jonathan

Preparing to be banned for being critical.

And, No, I did not do the work but do appreciate the investment in time required to do the work.
 

Neeves

Well-known member
Joined
20 Nov 2011
Messages
13,339
Location
Sydney, Australia.
Visit site
Bad hair day?
Never, hair?, what is this hair - I lost mine so long ago I've forgotten. Bandanna has been the answer, as I have an aversion to the ubiquitous baseball cap.

No - I simply have this fixation that the first step if you want to engender support is to use the search function (seems to simple) and then give credit to the expertise (like that coming from people with credibility (like you) who are willing to share your expertise).

But, you indicate, my message has been noted - I'm expecting a holiday for a few weeks

See you later.....:)

Jonathan
 

vyv_cox

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
25,986
Location
France, sailing Aegean Sea.
coxeng.co.uk
Ive read that some are trying copper plating the prop. Sounds interesting maybe PBO should do an article on this. Apparently its reasonably easy to do yourself. see this article
Copper plating a propeller – Cox Engineering
and this DIY one
https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=d335...xcHZ0PWNvcHBlcitwbGF0aW5nJkZPUk09VkRSRQ&ntb=1
The first one you link to on my website was originally published in PBO.

I have some doubts that a DIY plater will achieve the hardness and density required for long-lasting prop protection but as I know people are trying this we will find out in due course.
 
Top