Cleaning off sikaflex

RutlandMike

RutlandMike

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I'm planning to use sikaflex to bond granite tiles to the old melamine worktops in my galley but haven't used it before. Can anyone advise please - will the excess wipe off with water when its wet (like an acrylic sealant), scrape off with a stanley blade when set or will I need to mask each joint? I shall butt joint the tiles so grout is not an option. Thanks!
 
Sika Remover 208 for removal of uncured Sicaflex. But I guess it's a Stanley blade if it cures. Sorry I have never used it so I cannot suggest what it is but you never know it might be something as common as acetone, thats a pretty good solvent! If you can find a safety data sheet online it might say.
 
Sealant Wipes, from Homebase etc. Some people have recomended baby wipes but the ones I used didn't work as well as the sealant wipes.
 
Thanks chaps. I've never heard of sealant wipes - I usually use a fat wet finger and whatever shirt I'm wearing. I assume they are pre-loaded with something? If acetone works, sounds like the simplest way. I'll have to check it wont damage/stain the granite.
 
[ QUOTE ]
acetone or thinners

[/ QUOTE ]I have never managed to get acetone or thinners to dissolve cured sikaflex.

For uncured sikaflex, I use lots of kitchen roll and white spirit (as a lubricant more than a solvent). Its what the boatyard taught me a few years ago, and you get a perfect edge.
 
First cover the unintended places with tape, finish the bond (yes, with a wet towel or finger) and then remove the tape. tadaa! If necessary, cover a wider area with the tape, since the glue goes farther than you think!
 
I replaced my forward hatch last season and so had to get rid of old sealent. I used 'Dow Corning' silicon sealent remover. It really did work on old cured silicon.
Can be obtained from plumbers merchants.
 
Petrol on a rag does the job when "wet" but its a nightmare when cured..
Masking tape everywhere is the only answer.
I am not sure about close butting tiles though.

Enjoy.... Peter
 
Hi, if you haven't used sikaflex before, I sugest doing s test piece first, it's more sticky than you will believe!

The best way is to only apply exacly the right amount of sealant so that you don't need to remove much, if any. Cut the cartridge nozzle so that it is just wider than the gap to be filled and keep it in contact with both sides and hold it at 90 degrees to the direction of travel. Use the sealant warm so that it will flow easily witout too much pressure from the trigger. As you squeeze the trigger, look at the joint area under the nozzle, move the gun along the joint and balance the gun speed with trigger pressure to keep the joint full of sealant under the nozzle. As with spray painting, if the trigger is pulled, the gun must be moving, or you will get a build-up that will need smoothing out.

If you mask both sides of the joint, you can use a piece of small diameter rubber or plastic pipe to smooth out the sealant, keep dipping it in white spirit or thinners to stop the sealant from sticking to it and dragging.

wet sikaflex can be removed with white spirit, thinners or automotive brake cleaner (handy in aerosols) and lots of rags.

Cured sikaflex can be removed using the solvent aerosol cleaner used on expanding foam guns.

wear latex gloves if you are using sealant and thinners, the solvent will help the sealant soak into your skin and nothing will remove it.

If you get sikaflex on any porous surface, nothing will remove it, so cover anything nearby.

Peter
 
No-one seems to have mentioned using meths. It is fantastic on still-tacky Sikaflex and leaves the surface just right for smoothing with your finger. The advantage over petrol etc. is that it doesn't stink the place out. I used it yesterday to clean up and smooth off after fitting a new pintle.
I could have removed it all but prefered to leave a bead around the fitting to discourage water creep and it gets antifouled anyway.
Plus if there's any meths left you can always have a celebratory drink.

pintle1.jpg
 
I poured acetone on a hatch bottom covered in sikaflex - didn't touch it. Used sharp wood chisels to pare it off. See previous post 2 weeks ago for warning should you ever wish to remove tiles BOL
 
Unless you rough up the melamine you may have a problem with adhesion with the sika.
I have used sika to put down tiles and as a grout, but use a lot of masking ,it gets everywhere
Why not use a silicone, it makes less mess, cleans up easier, and the bond can be broken when she gets fed up with the colour.
 
Just noticed in small print in my Sika leaflet

"Traces of uncured Sika adhesives or sealants may be removed with Sika Remover 208. On no account should other cleaning agents or Sika Cleaner 205 be used for this purpose"

(205 is for cleaning tools etc)
 
Thanks all. I was wondering about Sikaflexes own cleaner - and how much you pay for the name on the tin. I'm pleased no one has said 'don't do it'. I'll let you know how it goes! Cheers.
 
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