Cleaning fuel tank in situ

One thing I haven't done for a bit but will is to replace the O ring on the filler - this must be the cheapest and simplest precaution to keep water out of your fuel!

Even cheaper - but a bit more of a faff is to put a smear of grease on the filler cap threads after every filling and then wipe off the small amount of surplus that oozes up. This gives reassurance that the cap is absolutely waterproof.
 
Well we have to agree to differ. If there’s hardly any fuel in your tank, water will end up in your tank. And you won’t be able to use your boat in winter. Both things are intolerable for me.


FWIW The Duck did the calculations a few years ago before concluding that condensation in tanks is likely to provide a tiny source of water, which pales into insignificance compared to the water found naturally within diesel fuel, water ingress through poor filler caps, contaminated fuel barges, etc.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?464230-Condensation-in-fuel-tank/page2
 
Even cheaper - but a bit more of a faff is to put a smear of grease on the filler cap threads after every filling and then wipe off the small amount of surplus that oozes up. This gives reassurance that the cap is absolutely waterproof.

And consider changing the corroded alloy, 30 year old deck filler?
Some of the old ones seem designed to hold a few cc of rain above the o ring, ready to drop in the tank when you open it.
 
FWIW The Duck did the calculations a few years ago before concluding that condensation in tanks is likely to provide a tiny source of water, which pales into insignificance compared to the water found naturally within diesel fuel, water ingress through poor filler caps, contaminated fuel barges, etc.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?464230-Condensation-in-fuel-tank/page2

It’s a 25 litre tank. I have 1200 litre tanks. Surface area if half full significant.
 
As a bystander your comments make interesting reading. I’ve often thought about making such a rig, perhaps an ideal over-winter project.

I don’t use a lot of fuel over an average U.K. season, I tend to keep the tank full and (infrequently) use Millers bug treatment.

Why do you have to re-polish every two years? Do you consume a lot of fuel? Dodgy filling stations? Just bad luck?
I top up the tanks approx twice a season which probably equates to one full thankful used per year. So not big usage and that's one of the main problems. But as I can't get to physically clean the inside of my tanks there is a residual contamination issue which I can only manage by regular treatment and polishing.

I treat with bug killer every time I fill, last year it was Marine 16 and this year it's been something else sold at my marina. Best to change periodically to prevent resistance, is the perceived wisdom.

Yet despite the above I have found some contamination lurking in the bottom after a couple of years.
I think it's now a fact of life as a result of the FAME content in modern fuel, which permits and may already have moisture in it when you fill up. But it's not a big problem now I have my polishing rig and it's just good practice to keep on top of things.

What size filtration do you use?
I use a Fleetguard filter that importantly removes 95% of engrained and dissolved moisture as well as particles etc. There is often great play and emphasis on "5 micron filtration" or whatever but unless you have one of the latest common rail diesels the micron figure is a complete red herring; removal of moisture is the key aim. Need to remove the bug's habitat so it can't exist. So whatever filter you buy make sure the moisture removal figure is quoted. If it's not quoted then it won't do the job; not all filters do by any means.
TIA :)
 
Well we have to agree to differ. If there’s hardly any fuel in your tank, water will end up in your tank. And you won’t be able to use your boat in winter. Both things are intolerable for me.
Sludge in suspension in fuel is ideal. It ends up in the filter as intended. Building up in the bottom of the tank is bad as it eventually blocks pipes before the filter. I found this out the hard way.

FWIW I'm completely with you on this.
Despite manufacturers covering themselves by saying it deteriorates, and the FAME element of it probably does, diesel does not "go off". If it did there would be tens of thousands of rarely used boats all over the country, or even the world which wouldn't start up without a complete fuel system replacement. And that's clearly not the case, so it's scare mongering and just plain wrong to indicate otherwise.
 
Despite manufacturers covering themselves by saying it deteriorates, and the FAME element of it probably does, diesel does not "go off". If it did there would be tens of thousands of rarely used boats all over the country, or even the world which wouldn't start up without a complete fuel system replacement. And that's clearly not the case, so it's scare mongering and just plain wrong to indicate otherwise.

I'm not sure any manufacturer has claimed that, have they, really?

The main issue with diesel fuel in storage is the formation of gums and sediments that can block filters. This is associated with darkening in the colour of the fuel. When stored under cover in sealed containers it will usually last for one year but it can last longer.........

Where did I get that: BP ;) (Well worth a quick read IMO)

https://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-c.../opal-fuel/Opal-factsheet-storagehandling.pdf
https://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-country/en_au/media/fuel-news/long-term-storage-diesel.pdf


More generally, the storage stability of diesel fuel has been studied extensively because of governmental andmilitary interest in fuel reserves..........

Where did I get that? Chevron ;) (Tech document prob of little interest)

https://www.chevron.com/-/media/chevron/operations/documents/diesel-fuel-tech-review.pdf
 
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