Clamping the steering wheel when moored?

[prv]

Our old boat had a tiller, and we always lashed it with a line across the cockpit when the boat was moored alongside.

The new boat has a wheel. I've sailed on some wheel-steered boats with a central friction nut that was used to lock the steering, but ours doesn't have this.

In the last year I've often engaged the wheelpilot clutch to act as a kind of lock, but I'm in the process of changing to a below-decks drive so that will no longer be an option.

We're moored on a tidal river with a knot or two of current flowing backwards and forwards. We have standard cable steering.

Do you reckon we need to be locking the steering? If so, any cunning ways to do it rather than just putting a line round the binnacle?

Pete

 

[jerrytug]

Our old boat had a tiller, and we always lashed it with a line across the cockpit when the boat was moored alongside.

The new boat has a wheel. I've sailed on some wheel-steered boats with a central friction nut that was used to lock the steering, but ours doesn't have this.

In the last year I've often engaged the wheelpilot clutch to act as a kind of lock, but I'm in the process of changing to a below-decks drive so that will no longer be an option.

We're moored on a tidal river with a knot or two of current flowing backwards and forwards. We have standard cable steering.

Do you reckon we need to be locking the steering? If so, any cunning ways to do it rather than just putting a line round the binnacle?

I always lash my tiller amidships as well, it's instinctive and takes 5 seconds. I suppose if you lash your wheel, the rudder will be flopping from side to side a bit anyway, due to slack in the wires etc, so it will be wearing notches and flats in your pintles, pulleys, etc around the amidships position. Does the rudder post stick up, to stick on an emergency tiller? Perhaps you could use that bit, and fabricate something that slips over it like the emergency tiller but just locks it tight. Result, no wear or noise! Just a thought.

 

[Lucky Duck]

When rafted at Southwold the ebb can hit five or six knots which has a habit of overcomming the friction lock on the wheel and turning the rudder hard over but I find putting the wheel cover on is very effective at stopping it turning.

The current also causes the prop to start turning unless I lock in reverse.

 

[Angele]

My wheel doesn't have a friction nut.

I just wrap a small bungy cord through one of the spokes and round the stainless steel bar that supports the binnacle instrument pod.

 

[Phoenix of Hamble]

+1

Also allows enough movement that any wear is spread over a sensible area, rather than all in one place

 

[Searush]

Mine is moored head to current in a river so I just leave the wheel. The same applies on swinging moorings or at anchor. I have not encountered a situation where I would be moored up stern to the current.

 

[Sneaky Pete]

Rudders don't flop about from side to side if they did then there is something seriously wrong with the steering. If the boat is on a swinging mooring it will usually point into the current. I have not seen wheels spinning back and forth because of tidal movement. I would say locking the wheel is pointless.

 

[jerrytug]

Rudders don't flop about from side to side if they did then there is something seriously wrong with the steering. If the boat is on a swinging mooring it will usually point into the current. I have not seen wheels spinning back and forth because of tidal movement. I would say locking the wheel is pointless.

Thread drift tiller steering
My rudder moves on a mooring buoy if it's wind against tide, enough to bang the tiller against the inside of the cockpit, sometimes, so I tie the tiller all the time everywhere, and when sailing or motoring to help go in a straight line. There is always a rope or a bungee on the tiller unless I'm hand steering, including when sitting on the hard standing!

 

[DanTribe]

Rudders don't flop about from side to side if they did then there is something seriously wrong with the steering. If the boat is on a swinging mooring it will usually point into the current. I have not seen wheels spinning back and forth because of tidal movement. I would say locking the wheel is pointless.

Not true. In a wind over tide situation most boats on moorings will sheer about horribly. If the nighbour is doing the same they will come together. If I don't lash my helm (to port), the boatyard will do it for me, and send me a bill!

 

[Lakesailor]

On the lake some boats shear about enormously in the wind alone , as there is no current.
I always lashed my tiller.

(especially from 40 seconds onwards)

 

[TQA]

Rudders don't flop about from side to side if they did then there is something seriously wrong with the steering. If the boat is on a swinging mooring it will usually point into the current. I have not seen wheels spinning back and forth because of tidal movement. I would say locking the wheel is pointless.

Well I have had my cable driven wheel being driven hard to full lock and coming up against the stop with a fairly hefty clonk when at anchor and we have forgotten to engage the friction lock. A squall rattling through will drive us sideways with enough force to easily move the wheel and at speed!

I would arrange something to lock it.

 

[William_H]

A boat which is veering around like Lakey's excellent video will inevitably put turning loads on the rudder and so he tiller or wheel steering. If the rudder is locked then the rudder wi9ll act more lieka stern mounted fin keel and damp the yawing. This movement if allowed will wear the steering gear. I would always advocate locking off the rudder.
The question from the OP is will the cable steering provide enough resistance to the rudder to stop movement. Probably not so yes tie off the wheel. good luck olewill

 

[prv]

Rudders don't flop about from side to side if they did then there is something seriously wrong with the steering. If the boat is on a swinging mooring it will usually point into the current.

But it's not on a swinging mooring, it's moored alongside a pontoon.

On re-reading I realise I didn't make that as clear as I intended, but I did say "alongside" in the very first sentence which should have been a clue.

For half of each tide we're stern to the current.

Pete

 

[yoda]

I changed from a wheel pilot to below deck unit, just as you have, and just left the wheel drive unit there as both a wheel lock and a backup (as it still worked but was not powerful enough in some heavy conditions).

 

[john_morris_uk]

Mine is moored head to current in a river so I just leave the wheel. The same applies on swinging moorings or at anchor. I have not encountered a situation where I would be moored up stern to the current.

I guess you never use trot moorings on a tidal river then.

Our home mooring is part of a trot and you have to moor into the current. If the river is flooding when you get back to the mooring, you end up with the full force of the ebb on the rudder when the tide turns. The forces can be quite high.

Fortunately we have a good wheel brake/lock.

FWIW I would never leave a wheel or tiller 'unsecured' whether it was a swinging mooring or trot or alongside berth.

 

[Coaster]

I changed from a wheel pilot to below deck unit, just as you have, and just left the wheel drive unit there as both a wheel lock and a backup (as it still worked but was not powerful enough in some heavy conditions).

Good, simple, sensible advice. An excellent illustration of why this is the Practical Boat Owner's forum.

Thank you.

If only more posters were as helpful...

 

[johnalison]

Contrary to some of the things I have written earlier, this is one area where a wheel can be superior to a tiller. Tying up a tiller is not unduly difficult, though I find that it is necessary to use both a line and a bungee cord, but it takes up space in the cockpit, is awkward with a cockpit tent up, and can abrade the varnish on the tiller.

 

[Roberto]

I use a plastic hook on the central spoke, it is tied with two bits of rope to the two vertical stainless tubes.

The plastic hook is more than enough to keep the wheel locked, and it is weak enough to let go the wheel when I forget to take the hook off and the pilot takes charge of everything

 

[prv]

I changed from a wheel pilot to below deck unit, just as you have, and just left the wheel drive unit there as both a wheel lock and a backup (as it still worked but was not powerful enough in some heavy conditions).

Clever, but I'd rather have the £200 I got for selling it

(Also I'm remodelling the binnacle and there probably won't be space for it afterwards.)

Since you mention backup, I'm toying with the idea of adding a tillerpilot pin to the steering mechanism below decks, and a mounting socket in the appropriate place (probably a bunk top, under the mattress). I wouldn't spend money on this, but I have all the bits in the shed including KS's old tillerpilot and the unused mounting hardware from the new one. It would be a good backup as it's completely independent requiring only 12v, but you can carry preparation too far into paranoia...

Pete

 

[prv]

So is the consensus that I do need to fix the wheel on a boat moored to a pontoon, parallel to a reversing river flow?

Any cunning ideas for a brake? Obviously a bit of old line will work, but I'd like something neater really. Unfortunately my wheel mechanism itself doesn't have any provision for a brake.

Pete