Choc blocks and rust

[tudorsailor]

I use WAGO connectors, either 222 or 221 depending on the current required. You don't need a screwdriver for them and they are re-useable. They fix to the wires very securely and different sized wires are easy to connect.
I don't know if they are stainless, but I've got a few in use that are not showing any signs of corrosion.
Perhaps not ideal for critical applications, but for general wiring they are great and very easy to replace / refit if required at sea and in bumpy conditions.
you can find them all over, but a quick search on popular auction sites for Wago 221 / WAGO 222 will point you in the right direction.
WAGO also make mounts and other fittings If you need them to be secured to bulkheads etc.

edit: I've just found this on the spec sheets "Tinned current bars ensure a permanent, gas-tight and secure wire connection."

+1 for Wago.

TudorSailor

 

[LadyInBed]

That deserves a slap.
The plastic insulation moves under thermal cycling or plain old age and loosens the connection.
Unreliable and a fire risk if there's any current involved.

I have used that method for around fifty years, no fires so far! Mind you, we are talking about joints that are probably carrying something less than an amp. High current joints normally use a wire diameter that doesn't need mechanical support.
The screw meets the insulation at 90 degrees and about 3mm from the end of the insulation, any movement will help to keep the contact fresh.

 

[lw395]

I have used that method for around fifty years, no fires so far! Mind you, we are talking about joints that are probably carrying something less than an amp. High current joints normally use a wire diameter that doesn't need mechanical support.
The screw meets the insulation at 90 degrees and about 3mm from the end of the insulation, any movement will help to keep the contact fresh.

My father in law was crap at wiring mains plugs for 60 years but managed to die of something else. It doesn't make his methods acceptable.

 

[RichardS]

..... any movement will help to keep the contact fresh.

Now that's what I call really thinking out of the box.

Richard

 

[geem]

Choc-blocks are horrible on a boat, and Wagos are little better. In my book, the only way to connect wires is with solder and heat shrink. Chock blocks are Ok for temporary, and test purposes, and that's about it.

Unless you buy stainless steel choc bloc. They are great. solder and shrink raps have there place but not when you need to have components removable.

 

[Graham_Wright]

Unless you buy stainless steel choc bloc.

Never seen those. Normally the connector blocks are brass and normally unplated. In theory, they could corrode but none of mine have.

 

[KellysEye]

>Although it only waterproofs until it dries out.

If something gets rust it will be in a damp area such as electrical terminals on a winch in the chain locker, if something gets rusty it likely to rust again if you renew it so put Vaseline on it won't dry out. If it does dry out means the area where it is in is no longer damp. The Vaseline in our anchor locker never dried out.

 

[PaulRainbow]

>Although it only waterproofs until it dries out.

If something gets rust it will be in a damp area such as electrical terminals on a winch in the chain locker, if something gets rusty it likely to rust again if you renew it so put Vaseline on it won't dry out. If it does dry out means the area where it is in is no longer damp. The Vaseline in our anchor locker never dried out.

Use waterproof connectors, no need for Vaseline then, you can use it for something else :encouragement: