Seven Spades
Well-known member
We have marlon throughhulls and I am very happy with them. The material is like a hard nylon, tough and I have not had any problems with them seizing.
Just a question if you don't mind.We have marlon throughhulls and I am very happy with them. The material is like a hard nylon, tough and I have not had any problems with them seizing.
I would lay up glass over the area of the through hull to locally thicken then level it with a flap sander on the grinder. If using Maralon valves they are about 100mm across their base. No need for a backing pad and no ply to rotJust a question if you don't mind.
Except for the engine seawater inlet, I have only used Blakes type seacocks with backing blocks shaped for the turn of the bilge. These being ply and soaked with epoxy resin. With composite seacocks, is there a recommended material for backing blocks ? Thanks
Brilliant !I would lay up glass over the area of the through hull to locally thicken then level it with a flap sander on the grinder. If using Maralon valves they are about 100mm across their base. No need for a backing pad and no ply to rot
I modified e sgdak u dsrsga d jsejI have a 2015 Bavaria 41. Over the weekend I noticed the head outflow seacock was leaking slightly, I tried to tighten it to no avail. I had the boat lifted this morning and when the yard were removing it the through hull skin fitting disintegrated. The yard were surprised to see a chrome outer skin fitting connected to brass seacock and said that it could have resulted in a catastrophic failure at any time. I dread to think what would have happened if I was at sea at the time. Should this have really happened after just 7 years of fairly light use?
Needless to say I am having all below water skin fittings/seacocks replaced.
I modified jt only just I good enough to qualify ?The ISO standard says they should last five years.