charge air cooler tamd41b

Adrianwool

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Good day,
This is a question for the engine bright sparks amongst you. I would like to clean out the insert contained within the charge air cooler. The manual suggests this is a sea-water cooled component and the way to proceed is to ensure that seacocks are closed and to drain the water within through the drain plug on the bottom of the unit. There are connection pipes at the top of the unit which are obviously connected to the raw water supply and to the gearbox for the purpose of cooling. The top to the unit is held on by a number of dome topped 10 mm nuts. Does anyone know if there is enough clearance to undo the domed nuts leaving the pipes in place allowing the top to be removed and the internal tubular cooling insert to be removed for cleaning?
 
Once the dome headed nuts are removed you only have to lift the cover about 1" - 2" to clear the unit.
Can you not remove the raw water inlet and outlet pipes? They are often just held on with jubilee clips.

As you lift the cover off, be careful that you dont lose the rubber seal that separates the inlet and outlet chambers.

Strictly speaking, you should do an air test on rebuilding the CAC which is another good reason for removing the inlet and outlet raw water connections.

Eddie
 
Good day,
This is a question for the engine bright sparks amongst you. I would like to clean out the insert contained within the charge air cooler. The manual suggests this is a sea-water cooled component and the way to proceed is to ensure that seacocks are closed and to drain the water within through the drain plug on the bottom of the unit. There are connection pipes at the top of the unit which are obviously connected to the raw water supply and to the gearbox for the purpose of cooling. The top to the unit is held on by a number of dome topped 10 mm nuts. Does anyone know if there is enough clearance to undo the domed nuts leaving the pipes in place allowing the top to be removed and the internal tubular cooling insert to be removed for cleaning?

I usually clean the raw water side with Ryd lyme available from express lube www.expresslube.co.uk/
I connect a central heating pump and header tank into the raw water system and circulate for about two hours then reconnect and flush out.
This method really does work and it eliminates the need to dismantle coolers which saves any damage and the need for new gaskets.
 
I usually clean the raw water side with Ryd lyme available from express lube www.expresslube.co.uk/
I connect a central heating pump and header tank into the raw water system and circulate for about two hours then reconnect and flush out.
This method really does work and it eliminates the need to dismantle coolers which saves any damage and the need for new gaskets.

I use this product too, but there is special type for use in aluminium housings, flushing out your way however does not remove the oil deposits in the cooler from the turbo which blocks the airflow through the intercooler matrix.

On older heat exchangers its a good idea to dip the stripped down matrix core totally in rydelime to descale both water sides of the core, I have done may 40 and 60b/c exchangers that are blocked on the freshwater side as well as the sea water flow side.
 
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