Changing from folding prop back to fixed

KAM

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Seem to be a lot of people changing to folding props has anyone changed back to a fixed.
 
Seem to be a lot of people changing to folding props has anyone changed back to a fixed.

Not fixed but seriously considering changing back to feathering.

Folding just takes ages to stop and lots of prop walk. My new berth is very exposed and a pig to get into in a cross wind without a fair way on the boat so lack of brakes is causing me to enter always in astern as I can stop by engaging forwards.

Never been so grateful before for the bowthruster
 
I did it 3 years ago. Boat is a First38, tried a kiwi for two years but was not happy. In racing I could not meet the penalty I had. In forward I always needed higher revs and in reverse the boat did stop but could not incrcease revs should the need appeared. Perhaps a more expensive prop might cure the problems but did not bother after the peace of mind the two-fold provides me.
 
Not those with freedom of choice - folding prop produces virtually no drag, a fixed prop is the equivalent of dragging a bucket around behind you. Knocks 10-20% off sailing speeds.
Only one self-pitching prop, the Autoprop, which whilst not as slippery as a folding out-performs all feathering props.
 
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Yes. Was on gori 2 blade folding. Changed to volvo fixed. Gori gears wore out. Boat is a cruiser and I don't race so didn't bother replacing gori at vast expense - £950 vs £65 for a second hand but immaculate (with decent rubber bush) volvo fixed prop. I was prepared to sacrifice some speed but in all honesty I haven't noticed any difference. Gori let me down a couple of times (typically when berthing in close confines) when didn't engage properly and for my use / cruising I'm happy with a fixed prop. If I raced i would probably stick with fixed or feathering.
 
I changed from folding to fixed when my Volvo folder sheared its teeth when 3 years old. I sail slower but otherwise there's no problem.
 
Seem to be a lot of people changing to folding props has anyone changed back to a fixed.

Are you asking out of interest or are you thinking of changing back.......if so, why?

My boat came with Yanmar saildrive and fixed 3 blade. Manual says don't lock it in gear when under way. The noise was truly awful. I invested an eye watering £2,500 in flex-o-fold and stripper. After just one season I'm delighted with it. Very responsive in ahead and astern with low speed, imperceptible engagement. Removed it at the end of the season, 10 minutes in diluted brick cleaner and it's as good as new.
 
Are you asking out of interest or are you thinking of changing back.......if so, why?

My boat came with Yanmar saildrive and fixed 3 blade. Manual says don't lock it in gear when under way. The noise was truly awful. I invested an eye watering £2,500 in flex-o-fold and stripper. After just one season I'm delighted with it. Very responsive in ahead and astern with low speed, imperceptible engagement. Removed it at the end of the season, 10 minutes in diluted brick cleaner and it's as good as new.

The decision is really the same as going the "normal" way - what do you hope to achieve? For some as shown here the decision is easier because their folder wore out or they could not deal with potential negatives. If you have a modern folding prop, changing to a fixed will immediately reduce your speed under sail for perhaps a gain in reverse performance. However if you have an old worn out prop then cost may well feature more highly in the decision.
 
The 2 blade folders seem to have quite a limited life. My Radiche has done 700 hours and the blades are now quite loose. It does not seem to be a problem at the start of the season but its starting to get quite noisy with a bit of marine growth. I only have 50mm hull clearance which does not help. Anyone else have any opinions on the Radiche. Can't decide whether to refurbish it go to fixed or spend more money. The Radiche has an unusual blade profile. It seemed to get good reviews but I am not convinced about its efficiency when motoring. I get 5 kts at 2400rpm with 28 HP on a 10m hull with a displacement of 5000Kg. Reverse is not important and not an issue.
 
I liked my Gori folding prop on my yanmar sail drive for the first 12 months until the boat put astern with the thing shearing off the rubber bush and losing the prop. With the boat mechanic telling me its quite common and Gori telling me its not but here have a cost price propeller as they felt bad it happened..
I could have sunk the boat if it had of been heading for rocks/pontoon/another vessel... Or stuck in the middle of somewhere with no wind and no propeller.
Id stick with fixed blade prop. Nothing will go wrong or far less than would with a folding prop. The drag is only noticeable when racing but you could argue why you havnt polished the hull to gain that extra .1 of a knot as well..
 
My 3-blade folder is rubbish - when you engage forward you get a loud bang and in reverse it takes full revs to have any chance of stopping the boat (which is around 8 tonnes). Plus you get a lot of noise when cruising with the engine off - no idea why. We were planning to switch to a fixed prop this winter (they're v. cheap, about £375 for our size) but now think a Bruntons Autoprop (feathering) would be better. That's because they are efficient in forward (saving fuel - more thrust at lower rpm) and reputedly excellent in reverse.
 
My 3-blade folder is rubbish - when you engage forward you get a loud bang and in reverse it takes full revs to have any chance of stopping the boat (which is around 8 tonnes). Plus you get a lot of noise when cruising with the engine off - no idea why. We were planning to switch to a fixed prop this winter (they're v. cheap, about £375 for our size) but now think a Bruntons Autoprop (feathering) would be better. That's because they are efficient in forward (saving fuel - more thrust at lower rpm) and reputedly excellent in reverse.

What propeller is it?
 
My 3-blade folder is rubbish - when you engage forward you get a loud bang and in reverse it takes full revs to have any chance of stopping the boat (which is around 8 tonnes). Plus you get a lot of noise when cruising with the engine off - no idea why. We were planning to switch to a fixed prop this winter (they're v. cheap, about £375 for our size) but now think a Bruntons Autoprop (feathering) would be better. That's because they are efficient in forward (saving fuel - more thrust at lower rpm) and reputedly excellent in reverse.

Do you engage astern once engine has stopped to assist blades to fold back? Even more important if you have any marine growth on the teeth.
 
Our Volvo 3-blade folder is great. Plenty of power in both forward and reverse - no difference from a fixed one as far as I can tell. Never heard it spinning the gears, so I assume under sail the passing water pushes it into the folded position more or less immediately; we don't lock it in reverse. Never had a fixed one on this boat so I can't compare speeds, but the boat is certainly quite fast for her size.

The only problem with it is that it rapidly eats the small anodes attached directly to it, and because it's mounted on the shaft via a rubber bush it can't be connected to a hull or hanging anode.

Pete
 
My Volvo 2-bladed is on a saildrive and has done over 2,000 hrs over fifteen seasons. Apart from the problem with the hub which I have mentioned, the prop has behaved fine and shows no obvious sign of its age. There is not usually much left of the anodes when we come out but the metal is OK. Going astern requires a bit more welly but has never given any concern and the slight clunk when the blades open is quite normal.
 
What are the real savings. I would be very surprised if anyone is getting 10 to 20% reduction in drag. It seems to be more like 3 to 7% depending on hull and prop size. Is a 0.25 kt speed increase worth the loss of efficiency when motoring.
 
We try to pause between ahead and astern, as one always should, but when you need to stop and you have a boat that carries its way you can't hang around too long.
 
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