Chain Locker

[mawm]

At present my boat's chain locker drains to the inside of the hull and then has its own through-hull below the water line. It keeps the paintwork clean, but the through-hull is getting old and needs replacement. The valve also gets blocked with the crud brought up by the anchor and chain, and by old flaking paint from within the locker.

2 questions:

- I could drain the locker directly to the outside, but it will have to go through the front of the bow. Will this cause salt water to be washed up into the locker? Is this a problem with causing rusting of the galvanised chain? It would allow me to close off the through-hull.

- I need to repaint the locker. What paint is recommended? The locker is fiberglass and I have wondered if a thick paint such as used for wheel arches and pickup beds would be a good choice.

(Seems to be more than 2 questions)

 

[EdWingfield]

The arrangement on my Ben seems to work ok. The through hull outlet is above the waterline, but to stop backflow when the boat is moving, a stainless cover that remains open to rearward is fitted over the exit hole.

I guess the height of the bottom of your chain locker and waterline are critical for the locker to remain dry.

Hopefully someone here will know the name of this cover, and where to get one.

 

[Strathglass]

You can paint the inside of your chain locker with International Danboline.

It goes straight on the rough internal fibreglass and is easy to apply.
It has a sort of self leveling effect and gives a hard smooth finish.

I have heard of someone using floor paint (stuff for concrete floors) but I am quite happy with the dandoline.

The little covers are just called 'vents' and are available from many sources.

Iain

 

[Channel Ribs]

I would recommend Blake's Bilge & Locker paint, it is just right for the job. Just remember to apply it on a warm day, or it will take for ever to dry.

 

[mawm]

Thanks all. I have seen vents when the drain hole is to the side but not for right at the front.

Is it OK to find a 'Blank' to close a through-hull?

 

[rogerthebodger]

On my new yacht the anchor locker drain hole is in the fromt above the water line. I have fitted a cover and ball valve to stop water being forces in due to forward motion.

I and going to line the anchor locker with old rubber belting glued on using sekaflex. This will prevent the hull from being damaged and also reduce the noise of the chain in the locker.

 

[oldsaltoz]

G'day Mawm,

Welcome to the YBW forums; the quality and quantity of responses will improve if you add a little information to your bio.

Rubber lining seems to last the longest and leave the least damage, just remember not to fix the floor section, it needs to be removed from time to time to get the crap out from under it or it will do damage.

If your well has a drain line, perhaps you can re run it to the side and avoid the complications of having the drain on the front; even an inch to the side will make a big difference.

When building an anchor well drain with a drain line, allow the line to pass thru' the hull and face aft by cutting or drilling the hole at an angle, cover this with a stainless steel 3 cornered rolled protector, and make the drain line is just outside the cover and off the hull, this will give you a clean drip line and leave no mark on the hull.

Avagoodweekend......

 

[mawm]

Old salt - thank you. Will update my bio