Cat 3126ta engine oil

I have only used Exol in my Cats, the Marine 123. It is a little more expensive than the Taurus as it has Marine in the title, so we always pay more for that. Tomorrow 50 litres is going into Rafiki’s Cats. I’m sure she will appreciate it.
 
John100156 said:
Yep - we all moan about the cost and frequency of oil changes, but it does make you feel good when you know the engines have new oil...! Now I am going to have to look up Exol Marine 123 :cool:
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I buy direct from local oil retailers. For me Clarke Oils in Redditch. Mainly supplying to trade, but ever so helpful. Also bought Exol coolant from them too, all jolly good prices. They deliver foc too.
 
Well what to do:-

Exol Taurus 30 @ £49.29 for 25L so £1.97/L
Synergy Cygnus HDX30 @ £43.54 for 20L so £ 2.18/L
Exol Optima Marine 123 @ £66.96 for 25L so £2.68/L

All above include VAT - good reports from Cat owners for both Taurus 30 and Marine 123 comparing to Cat Spec looks like 123 most closely matches unless other oil Guru's advise otherwise, need to order on Monday so any further advice welcome....!
 
Go for the latter, you know you want to.
After all, a "marine" label has got to be worth a £0.71/L difference! :cool:
 
Yep, you read me very well. I was going to go for Taurus originally but Paul's comments have skewed my thinking..!

In reality, it probably makes very little difference, given the frequency we change oil and filters, but it might make me feel a little more comfortable, extending oil change intervals perhaps to two years.... :cool:
 
Cheaper oils give off a bit of a pong when they’ve done a bit of work. The 50 odd litres I drained yesterday was pretty sweet. Must be the Marine tag :encouragement:
 
Actually Rafiki, it is the "marine" as the additives package is better suited to a marine environment as the marine variant is slightly different on only its additives package.
 
John100156 said:
Just to complete the selection for others that might be interested in future, here is the Spec sheet for the Exol Taurus 30. The cost quoted above at £48.90 is for 25L for the Taurus compared to the Synergy Cygnus HDX30 at £36.70 for 20L both plus VAT. I am leaning towards the Taurus as I have heard good reports back from others with the Cat 3126TA engines:

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Raising up an old thread, This is the oil that Finnings are providing. Is nobody concerned about the API rating of CE? It’s expensive stuff .
 
I would just stick to the CAT recommended oil and filters. If you want to reduce long term wear factors, avoid cold starts by either heating the engine bay in winter, or installing sump heat pads. Wolverine make lots of different ones, both mains and 12 or 24 volts.

It also reduces operating costs if you remember that the big rig truck drivers in the US only change oil and/or filters when an oil lab tells them to do so based on used oil analysis. Changing oil too often not only wastes money, but it increases main block wear.
Most wear occurs in the first 50 to 100 hours of a typical 300 hour oil change interval, and that is because the detergent component of the new oil is a tad too active for a while and effectively cleans off some of the previous anti wear additives before the new ones are baked on, which takes some time. The main inclusive additive is Zinc that is very important.
The other problem with new engine oil is that it has not been filtered to a high enough standard, so the oil filter actually cleans up the new oil. Full German standard synthetic oils and modern GTL, (Gas To Liquid), technology oils like Shell Ultra are very clean cos they are not based on dinosaur crude oil.

The quality of the oil filter is as important as the oil, and if you change it before it is really dirty, it increases wear rates, unless you are using a normal carboard element, rather than a new sythetic media one. With modern sythetic oil filters, the efficiency is the same whhen new as dirty, BUT it sure is not for the cheaper filters, cos their hole pattern is random, but when they are used the larger holes get partly blocked, so the average hole size is reduced. In fact an oil or air filter is most efficient when it is almost blocked.

Ultimately if you really care for your diesel, start an annual used oil analysis with a lab that comments on the results. I use Blackstones in the US which costs 30 dollars plus postage for a 200ml sample, (About a fiver). They then email you the result, and the last one I got was bad news, as the Lead was 4 times the normal level. I thought it might have been from new main bearings, but alas it was not and the mains had to be changed and the crank reground..
 

Attachments

I eventually opted for Optima Marine 123 that was also approved by CAT, and also for use in the gearboxes on my boat. Exol blub as follows:

Optima Marine 123 is recommended for the lubrication of medium and high-speed trunk type marine diesel engines operating on fuels containing sulphur levels up to 1%. Optima Marine 123 provides excellent engine cleanliness particularly in the piston ring area. Its alkaline characteristics prevent engine corrosion by neutralising acidic combustion products thereby providing long service life. While ideally suited to trunk piston engines with low oil consumption of modern design, Optima Marine 123 can also be used in older engines.
 
thanks John. When I asked for a price of Taurus 30, I rec’d a quote for Optima Marine 123…. So I assume they are considered similar products. I’ve already purchased (from CAT) Taurus 30 this year, as I found it quite hard to get hold of. Can you let me know if a supplier for Exol Optima Marine 123. It was pretty expensive from CAT.
 
TNLI said:
I would just stick to the CAT recommended oil and filters. If you want to reduce long term wear factors, avoid cold starts by either heating the engine bay in winter, or installing sump heat pads. Wolverine make lots of different ones, both mains and 12 or 24 volts.

It also reduces operating costs if you remember that the big rig truck drivers in the US only change oil and/or filters when an oil lab tells them to do so based on used oil analysis. Changing oil too often not only wastes money, but it increases main block wear.
Most wear occurs in the first 50 to 100 hours of a typical 300 hour oil change interval, and that is because the detergent component of the new oil is a tad too active for a while and effectively cleans off some of the previous anti wear additives before the new ones are baked on, which takes some time. The main inclusive additive is Zinc that is very important.
The other problem with new engine oil is that it has not been filtered to a high enough standard, so the oil filter actually cleans up the new oil. Full German standard synthetic oils and modern GTL, (Gas To Liquid), technology oils like Shell Ultra are very clean cos they are not based on dinosaur crude oil.

The quality of the oil filter is as important as the oil, and if you change it before it is really dirty, it increases wear rates, unless you are using a normal carboard element, rather than a new sythetic media one. With modern sythetic oil filters, the efficiency is the same whhen new as dirty, BUT it sure is not for the cheaper filters, cos their hole pattern is random, but when they are used the larger holes get partly blocked, so the average hole size is reduced. In fact an oil or air filter is most efficient when it is almost blocked.

Ultimately if you really care for your diesel, start an annual used oil analysis with a lab that comments on the results. I use Blackstones in the US which costs 30 dollars plus postage for a 200ml sample, (About a fiver). They then email you the result, and the last one I got was bad news, as the Lead was 4 times the normal level. I thought it might have been from new main bearings, but alas it was not and the mains had to be changed and the crank reground..
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Some perspective. You are scaring them to death !
Most large marine motors certainly MAN s prime the crank journals before allowing turn over and firing .
Not sure road cars + other vehicles bother .This mitigates your cold start .

The zinc thingy was mainly for flat head rockers or soft cams in 70 s stuff .
Most marine have a cam shaft as I said pre lubed before firing and no issues with lobes or push rods wearing .

Most are ok with mineral oils or a blend of mineral + syn .Each owner needs to consult his manual .
Additive packages do eventually get used up , but in the leisure sector with long shut down periods ( weeks or indeed months ) its important theses are replenished.Long periods of inactivity leads to separating out in the sump .
We are talking 40-100hr max on here by the majority of us mainly in the summer .

It does no harm to annually change a mineral oil + filter in lets face it a low hrs usage .
Thinking winter internal condensation, water creeping in from stud idle .

Or if in season with the current trend to pootle , ie run fast planning boats @ D speed the EGTs are way down at 300 *C as opposed to optimal 550-625 *c .
This means basically inadequate, or better worded not the best ring fit .This mean excessive oil contamination from two sources .
1- fuel , unburnt from low rpm esp with older none EDC or none CR motors .
2- the products of combustion, the stuff that turns golden oil black .

Sure on a constant running correctly loaded motor say a diesel rail car or geny on a rig etc then then what you write IS applicable.
Not saying its incorrect.
Just pointing out the context of the average bod on here marine diesel usage pattern and tiny hrs .

Also marine diesel age , or what knackered them isn’t the oily bits it’s the bits that come in contact with seawater.
Something that say a rig geny or diesel rail car never sees .
 
At John100156 I would have thought any one of those oils would work .I wouldn’t worry which TBH
Reason
As long you change it regularly ie at least annually.
As long as the boat is not over propped …..overloading will end up with early demise .Not the “ wrong “ oil .
As long ….quite particular with CAT s pencil anodes and all that ….you maintain the coolers
More here “Marine Age” the REAL age of a Marine Diesel Engine
 
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