Cast iron keel with Lead bulb

No. Lead and iron are fairly close on the galvanic scale and the keel will be painted so the junction between the two will not be in seawater.
 
There are some small rickety contours on the trailing edge of the keel, this could be corrosion or galvanic damage I'm not sure. But the previous owner has a bond between the bottom of one of the stantion bases to one of the keel bolts which I intend to remove.
 
There is about 0.6 volts between lead and cast iron in the galvanic series in seawater, more than between cast iron/steel and zinc. A zinc anode might well do some good. Do you see any corrosion of the iron?

Would it harm to bolt an anode on the keel anyway as there is a tapped hole from where the previous owner had an anode?

There are some small rickety contours on the trailing edge of the keel, this could be corrosion or galvanic damage I'm not sure. But the previous owner has a bond between the bottom of one of the stantion bases to one of the keel bolts which I intend to remove.

You will need anodes both sides as one will not protect the side of the keel it cannot see. The same would apply to hull anodes

Id think anodes nearish to the lead bulb will be more effective than up on the hull as that will be where any corrosion the lead causes will be most severe

I wonder what is the object of the connection to the stanchion base.
 
Y
I wonder what is the object of the connection to the stanchion base.

The bond to the main Anode had corroded off at the point were the builder (Gibsea) had buried the bond into the gelcoat floor and the terminals of the anode could not be seen as they were buried too. Maybe the previous owner thought the bond from the stanchion base would be an alternative. Or maybe his idea of a lightning conductor?

I have drilled down into the anode stud and tapped it out so I can reattach the bond from the engine block and shaft stuffing box. Hence I'll be removing the bond to the keel bolt.
 
The bond to the main Anode had corroded off at the point were the builder (Gibsea) had buried the bond into the gelcoat floor and the terminals of the anode could not be seen as they were buried too. Maybe the previous owner thought the bond from the stanchion base would be an alternative. Or maybe his idea of a lightning conductor?

I have drilled down into the anode stud and tapped it out so I can reattach the bond from the engine block and shaft stuffing box. Hence I'll be removing the bond to the keel bolt.

bond to the shaft stuffing box ????
 
Whilst at anchor or berthed I have seen some owners hang an anode over the side of their boat on a stainless wire, clipped onto the stanchion base. Presumably they then bond the stanchion to the keel, or stern tube or wherever? I suspect a previous owner has had a similar arrangement on this Gibsea. Tends to be more prevalent on racing boats but certainly a couple of the cruisers in Troon use they same system for added protection.
 
No need to worry. All Sigma 38s have a composite keel, top half iron, bottom half lead, joint still close to invisible, most were made in the late 80s so are now nearing forty years old, if there was a problem I think it might have shown up by now.

I did use a hanging anode on mine, fitted to replace a high drag big lump of a hull anode as all the seacocks etc. were bonded so I wanted to connect the circuit to something, it was was just the redundant hull anode on a wire, never seemed to degrade, unlike the shaft anodes.
 
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