Carefully Cutting Cambers

[andrewbodenham]

Do you have access to a router? My approach to this sort of work is to cut a full size template in something like 6 or 9mm MDF or ply. This can be easily cut with your jigsaw, but a handsaw will give a smoother curve. Check for fit and make any adjustments, with plane or abrasive, or have another go. Once perfect you can use the template to mark out on the actual wood and cut this say 6mm oversize with the jigsaw (Coarse blade with wide set, pendulum action, light feed pressure) Then use the router with a bearing guided trimming bit running against the template to trim exactly to final size. (Screw or pin the template onto the wood)
This method allows you to make any errors in cheap materials, and pretty much guarantees the quality of the end result. On the downside, you would need a decent 1/2" router and a quality bit. But money spent on good tools is never wasted, and they are a small percentage of overall project cost.

 

[alan006]

Hi Paul,
A friend of mine who does lovely wood work always seems to get a nice line on his cuts. I've seen him replace his jigsaw blade 4 or 5 times in a day if he's working hardwoods. The moment that line even thinks of wandering he puts a new blade in.
Alan

 

[oldfrank]

Cut them as carefuly as you can - and I suggest slightly oversize. You will have to ensure that your new deck beam is part of the same overall curve as its neighbours. This is often best done with a batten - and a large belt sander! OF

 

[pauls_SPT]

Thanks again everybody,

I'll try all of these suggestions and see how I get on - I think I am, perhaps, being a little overly ecconomical with my jigsaw blades by the sounds of things...

Many thanks all, if I get a nice curve, I'll post a picture to prove it /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Paul

 

[pampas]

I have found that the Bosch Progressor blade does not run out of line in deeper cuts and will also cut a blind slot if you vary the cutting speed to suit the wood grain being worked.