Cape Verde

[lustyd]

Has anyone sailed to Cape Verde’s? In Boavista looking out at the sea and it seems unwelcoming due to consistently high winds and swell. Not a lot of infrastructure either but there do seem to be occasional yachts turning up. Is it more pleasant than it looks from the beach?

 

[capnsensible]

Pit stopped in Mindelo several times. I like.

 

[lustyd]

Ah that looks a much more suitable harbour on the map. It’s hard to tell from the beach whether the terrible swell, waves, and constant strong winds translate to poor conditions offshore. I guess the wind is at least quite consistent so less likely to get caught out. I quite like the idea of sailing here before every beach is end to end hotels.

 

[capnsensible]

A bit like the Canaries, they are a group out in the Atlantic and have pretty constant trade winds. Also means wind acceleration between them and flatter seas in the lee. Lots of fishing in rich seas.

Lots of Atlantic hurticanesare born nearby.

Not for the faint hearted, but great for the more experienced crews. Not much charter business!

I found local people very friendly and suitably old fashioned. Also capable of high quality yacht repairs......Mindelo is the only boaty garage in thousands of miles.

 

[capnsensible]

How's this for a coincidence. Was ashore yesterday evening with an old friend. We talked about times we have sailed together, including pit stopping in Mindelo and visiting the Irish Bar.

A moment ago, Mrs S got a text from another old oppo, Janet, who has sailed with all of us.

She was in the Irish Bar, Mindelo, last night watching the football.......

 

[Resolution]

Clever of the Irish to have sporting bars pretty much everywhere that matters.

 

[BobnLesley]

Has anyone sailed to Cape Verde’s? In Boavista looking out at the sea and it seems unwelcoming due to consistently high winds and swell. Not a lot of infrastructure either but there do seem to be occasional yachts turning up. Is it more pleasant than it looks from the beach?

No! Sal was very slightly better, but detouring to either really wasn't worth the effort; that said, San Nicoloua halfway between those and Mindelo was far and away our favourite spot in the Verde's.

 

[BobnLesley]

capable of high quality yacht repairs...... Mindelo is the only boaty garage in thousands of miles.

It must have improved significantly in the last ten years then; I'd concede that they were the best local option, but as you note, they were the only one.

 

[lustyd]

I wouldn’t be surprised if it had, there seems to be a rush to make the islands a clone of the Canaries and monetise the sunshine.

 

[geem]

I been there once. Cruised around the islands. Decided once was enough for me.
I believe provisioning is still poor so an onward passage to the Caribbean needs to take this into account

 

[capnsensible]

It must have improved significantly in the last ten years then; I'd concede that they were the best local option, but as you note, they were the only one.

It has. Seen the changes over 18 years. Marina a bit wobbly but has a really popular floating bar and restaurant. Half decent chandlers, grp repairs, welding etc etc and importers used to getting yacht spares flown in.

Also seen over that period an increasing move towards tourism. Particularly Italian investment.

 

[capnsensible]

I been there once. Cruised around the islands. Decided once was enough for me.
I believe provisioning is still poor so an onward passage to the Caribbean needs to take this into account

Much better now.....bearing in mind 80 or more yachts stop off every year in the ARC+ and more yacht than ever visiting.

Diesel quality has really improved and 907 gas around a tenth of what seems to be the uk rate.

Each to their own, but it works for me.

 

[BobnLesley]

I wouldn’t be surprised if it had, there seems to be a rush to make the islands a clone of the Canaries and monetise the sunshine.

I found the two island groups very different; the Canaries are Spain-on-sea but the Verdes felt African rather than Portugal-on-sea

 

[lustyd]

I thought that last year, but this year suddenly the locals speak Portuguese where last year it was something more local and they looked confused when I said Thanks in Portuguese. There are more hotels going in and more infrastructure too, I don’t think it will be long before they’re transformed, and the money seems to be pushing for canaries mk2. Tui/RIU seem to own most of the island so I guess they’ll decide!

 

[Tradewinds]

The Chandlers, ex-Lynn Rival, spent some time in the CVs. Worth reading their blog from here
Mystic of Holyhead (successor to Lynn Rival) - Goodbye Canaries. Hello Cape Verdes
They visited quite a few places in the group.

All this was pre-covid and before they became rather hot under the collar about covid matters.
Worth reading as it gives a goon insight into the islands (IMO). Mindelo was a lot more 'primitive' when we were there in the early 90s and was a great experience.

 

[BobnLesley]

... suddenly the locals speak Portuguese where last year it was something more local and they looked confused when I said Thanks in Portuguese...

Reminds me of an evening in the Mindelo marina bar, when I was bemoaning that using my basic/limited Portuguese I couldn't communicate with the locals. A chap on an adjoining table overhead and responded: "Don't worry about it, I can't either ... And I'm Portuguese."

 

[Roberto]

I spent about one month (october) on the northern islands, Mindelo - then east to the small islets (officially unauthorized at the time) - São Nicolau - Sal - Boavista. In Boavista we anchored to the W, behind that small land tongue, boats were swinging a little more at high water. Sal Italian colony indeed, one could find basil and eggplants which is a sure sign
As you noticed, often windy to very windy 30-40kt, adding swell it made quite difficult to use the dinghy to land on the beaches, or even swim around the boat; a bit boring actually.
I'd avoid Mindelo at all costs during ARC+ period, they move non participating boats to the outside extremes of the very long pontoon, really a nuisance when one has to provision; also, everything seems to be booked for them, mechanics, diesel etc. Then, we had our two young daughters and did not take advantage from music nights which everyone around said were fabulous.
At least for me, the sort of place I enjoyed to visit once but would most probably not go again.

 

[Roberto]

Also means wind acceleration between them

See how perfectly it can fan out: this is our track under wind steering, without changing the aerial angle, an almost perfect half circle. In the end it made us bear away too much so we motored

 

[lustyd]

Reminds me of an evening in the Mindelo marina bar, when I was bemoaning that using my basic/limited Portuguese I couldn't communicate with the locals. A chap on an adjoining table overhead and responded: "Don't worry about it, I can't either ... And I'm Portuguese."

Really glad it’s not just me. I try to make an effort but if the language I’m told to use isn’t in use it’s much harder! At the very least I’d like to know how to say thank you natively. Much harder when the resort tells them they speak Portuguese and they don’t! Admittedly we’re currently on the worst kind of all inclusive holiday just for some sun and warmth at the wrong end of the year and way too far from my helm!

 

[phanakapan]

We stopped off in Mindelo 10 years ago; we ended up anchoring quite a way out of the marina, it was very windy with big swell. Getting ashore with the small dinghy/outboard combo we had was a challenge. Checking in and out was also time consuming, but doable with help from a local guy. It did feel ‘African’ rather than European- which we quite liked. We’d already stocked up for our Atlantic crossing in the Canaries, so the relatively limited provisioning wasn’t an issue. I probably wouldn’t go out of my way to go again, but glad to have had the experience.