Canvas Rejuvenation

[Boaty_Pete]

I'm in the process of making new canopy covers for ours, and based on raw material costs plus if I charged myself labour, that's a good price.
I very much recommend applying the Fabsil with a 4" short nap roller. It helps penetration, and is less messy than brushing unless you have all week.

 

[Bigplumbs]

I'm in the process of making new canopy covers for ours, and based on raw material costs plus if I charged myself labour, that's a good price.
I very much recommend applying the Fabsil with a 4" short nap roller. It helps penetration, and is less messy than brushing unless you have all week.

Thanks for the Advice. The Price I got is from a Norfolk Maker. Norfolk Prices are way less than in in other parts of the Country. A lot of quite poor boaters there you see

 

[Anibal]

If the maker you went for is Stone and Bailey, they are superb top notch canvas / canopy makers. I used them during lockdown to make a whole new canopy for my Sealine. Superb service and craftsmanship. You can’t go wrong with those guys.

 

[Bigplumbs]

If the maker you went for is Stone and Bailey, they are superb top notch canvas / canopy makers. I used them during lockdown to make a whole new canopy for my Sealine. Superb service and craftsmanship. You can’t go wrong with those guys.

It was jeckells as they made the original. I have also used stone and Bailey in the past and I agree they are good but all can be slow. I actually now just need the windows replacing in one of the 4 pieces

 

[Chiara’s slave]

We put Wet and Forget on ours annually. That seems to do what’s required.

 

[dj43]

Yes I do but , covers are off ent of March , also full fly ridge full cover. How do you manage get up to the bow and do ropes at the stern . It’s not for me ,I understand on a tent boat.
In the winter great for drying cloths ,and it’s great with our heater having a vent there it gives a warm barrier from the winter. Where do you dine outside.

I suppose depends on layout ours has full access to side decks and rear decks ,with covers on, I always put our fly bridge full cover on at night as keeps everything dry and clean, we have separate covers for seats plus dash etc but find it easier to just put full cover back on, underway always keep on, stops spray getting on seats , each to there own, some say with covers off less windage but never had a problem, we also have heating vents to rear and do like to dine and spend time there, just usually roll back up.

 

[Bigplumbs]

Our canopies on the sealine s24 had shall we say been neglected for about 5 years so we followed the advice here spent £40 on fabsil gold fro Halfords (far cheaper than any chandlery) and gave it a go. We are quite pleased with the results given the state they were in

 

[riverliver]

looks good.Did you put the fabsil on the inside as well or is the exterior sufficient?

 

[Bigplumbs]

looks good.Did you put the fabsil on the inside as well or is the exterior sufficient?

As I applied it with a brush because my Fabric was very very dry a lot went on and to be honest it actually soaked through onto the table in some places so I am deeming it done. To do the whole 4 pieces of the canvas i bought 2 x 1 ltr tins @ a total of £39.00 for the 2. I have about half of one tin left so not enough to do much more. I think mine has had quite a lot and ironically the rain that came in the night beaded on the table where it soaked through.

So in Summary I feel that one good coat on the outside is enough. Time will tell

 

[Anibal]

One coat will be adequate. Those canopies are not that thick and Fabsil will certainly creep through the fabric without any issues.

 

[Boaty_Pete]

It's better to do one coat, and recoat another time.
My ''mo' is wet and forget, to kill the green, wait 3or 4 weeks for that to work.
Then a light scrub/clean, followed by Fabsil when dry. Too up fabsil when needed.......repeat next season if required.
£65 to replace windows is cheap. The canopy I'm making will cost nearly that in raw window pvc cost per window.
I think it's that price because the normal format is to stitch-in the new window then cut out the old one, leaving the edge of the old window still remaining. If you're rigged up ready it is quite quick to do.
To fully remove the old window, risks loosing the shape of the panel and ending up with gathers or short of fabric on the seam. It takes lots more time, but it's the way I always do it, despite the risks.

 

[Egret]

Will Fabsil waterproof a 'breathable material' dinghy cover where water tends to collect in a hollow then drip through - is it right it might only last 6-9 months as that would make it uneconomic against buying a new cover which might last 5-10 years.

Does colour come out and mark the deck where the the cover might lay, or rub onto the cats which like to sit on the cover.

 

[Boaty_Pete]

I think it would initially, however it's good, but not magic. You either need a non permeable (100%) waterproof cover, or to tent the cover to prevent the pooling.
Can you not put a telescopic pole in the centre to ensure run-off?
Pooling will always leave watermarks and stains, IMO even more so in the summer between rains and strong evaporation.
It's benefit, is the combination of restoring/improving waterproofing and thus adding further protection, which helps with longevity.

 

[Egret]

Thanks as always for prompt reply - do have a pole in the middle as a low ridge pole - but will to get something bigger to give a higher pitch

 

[Boaty_Pete]

Amazon.co.uk
I have one similar to this in the link.



To stop it falling in high winds I added a popper in the top point of the cover.
Then one of these in the middle top of the dome on the pole.