can i patch this engine leak? (pics)

[Lakesailor]

Until you need it in a pressing situation.

 

[rustybouy]

thanks for your input lads, upon further scraping and inspection things do not seem that great, I could patch it if I can get my mini grinder in to make some sort of area for the compound to hold, I should say im never more than a few hundred yards from the shore at this time (lobster territory) with plenty boats in attendance - should things go pear shaped, I like to strike out a few miles but would never take a chance with things in this state, tomorrow I get the opportunity to have a good grind and wire brush to see if I can uncover anything else, its a pity if I have to get rid of this engine, its been so reliable, I guess everything has a shelf life..

reconditioned engine or new?

im kinda fed up of old engines, think its worth saving for a new one, thanks boys

Pete

 

[bedouin]

I would give it a go - provided you can get good enough access to the area to clean it. Wire brush/clean the area than patch with chemical metal and an aluminium reenforcing mesh. Should at least keep you going to the end of the season and give you time to investigate replacement engines.

 

[rustybouy]

I would give it a go - provided you can get good enough access to the area to clean it. Wire brush/clean the area than patch with chemical metal and an aluminium reenforcing mesh. Should at least keep you going to the end of the season and give you time to investigate replacement engines.

thanks, what do mean with the mesh? is this to reinforce the layers of metal? was thinking two layers at least 2" around the leak?

 

[bedouin]

thanks, what do mean with the mesh? is this to reinforce the layers of metal? was thinking two layers at least 2" around the leak?

I would use a couple of layers as you say but with a reinforcing mesh between them - Halfords sell them for bodywork repairs. Depends a bit on how large a hole you have to span once you have removed the rust but I am not sure how strong chemical metal would be spanning a hole without any reinforcement. That said I am not a expert on chemical metal but I have always thought of it as being a filler rather than structural.

 

[Mel]

Chemical metal has been used to repair major engineering items for well over thirty years. You would probably be surprised how strong it is. Needs a good bonding surface and need to watch the working temperature specification. You can machine it just like steel - give it a go

 

[cryan]

Use a good chemical metal such as Belzona.http://www.belzona.co.uk/en/products/1000.aspx
Cheaper ones from Halfords will not work and some like Devcon, whilst a quality product, require meticulous conditions and preparation to work. They will not work if cold/damp/slightly unclean.
I can't recommend Belzona enough. Due to a lack of spares on the 1960's Tug I ran we were forced to use it quite a lot to keep deck machinery serviceable. In some cases it was stronger than the original steel and worked well in the cold, filthy, salty environment of a Scottish Dockyard.

 

[Mel]

Use a good chemical metal such as Belzona.http://www.belzona.co.uk/en/products/1000.aspx
Cheaper ones from Halfords will not work and some like Devcon, whilst a quality product, require meticulous conditions and preparation to work. They will not work if cold/damp/slightly unclean.
I can't recommend Belzona enough. Due to a lack of spares on the 1960's Tug I ran we were forced to use it quite a lot to keep deck machinery serviceable. In some cases it was stronger than the original steel and worked well in the cold, filthy, salty environment of a Scottish Dockyard.

Used Belzona also --- very good product

 

[rustybouy]

I would use a couple of layers as you say but with a reinforcing mesh between them - Halfords sell them for bodywork repairs. Depends a bit on how large a hole you have to span once you have removed the rust but I am not sure how strong chemical metal would be spanning a hole without any reinforcement. That said I am not a expert on chemical metal but I have always thought of it as being a filler rather than structural.

I had a go yesterday at this and I cant see the hole after cleaning up, turn the engine on and you can see the leak start though, so thankfully not much of a hole

 

[rustybouy]

cheers for the advice, i've already used the Halfords stuff for the first patch (oh dear), not to worry, just suck it and see I suppose

 

[30boat]

This must be the worst piece of advice I've ever seen ,but hey who am I to complain?

 

[cryan]

This must be the worst piece of advice I've ever seen ,but hey who am I to complain?

Why?

 

[savageseadog]

This must be the worst piece of advice I've ever seen ,but hey who am I to complain?

I quite agree. One shouldn't rely on engines completely but we all do at times. If you have an engine on a boat then you will rely on it, if you can't rely on it then you're going to run into problems one day. You're better off without an engine at all than that heap.

 

[rustybouy]

I quite agree. One shouldn't rely on engines completely but we all do at times. If you have an engine on a boat then you will rely on it, if you can't rely on it then you're going to run into problems one day. You're better off without an engine at all than that heap.

it's all i've got, so I will try to mend it , no danger, im not going to sail to Denmark in it

 

[Easticks28]

JB weld - available on fleabay for less than a fiver. Fantastic stuff IMHO, It's worked on a crack in my VP2001 for four years so far with no sign of failure thus far.

 

[30boat]

it's all i've got, so I will try to mend it , no danger, im not going to sail to Denmark in it

I wish you good luck,just don't put your trust on that engine afterwards.

 

[Lakesailor]

It's a bodge.