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The next time you see linseed-based paint on a boat hull be sure to let me kow 
The next time you see linseed-based paint on a boat hull be sure to let me kow![]()
I understand that Awlgrip can't be polished.
I use Maguires or 3M cleaner polish on my Awlgrip ( by hand ) & have done so for 17 yrs, i have also used a 3Ms restorer to rub out the odd ding. Brilliant stuff that Awlgrip :encouragement:Some say you can. This is the advice from Awlgrip:
http://www.awlgrip.com/support-and-advice/tips-for-maintaining-topcoats.aspx
So you can use Awlcare to polish by hand. I have never tried the stuff, probably costs an arm and leg. If you try it let us know how it goes.
Two-pack and two stage are different things. Two-pack (2k) requires a hardener to chemically harden the paint. Two stage means using a base coat and a clear coat - of which either can be water base, solvent base, single or 2k.
It doesn't matter if the paint or lacquer is acrylic, polyurethane, epoxy, cellulose etc they can all be polished.
I'm told that you can polish cars which are generally painted with cellulose paint. I haven't tried it myself though as I understand that each time you polish, you remove some of the finish. I did polish my coach roof and deck on Cobblers last year with turtle wax and was roundly condemned on here.
Some people claim old gelcoat goes porous.
Others have a different idea. That is, that gelcoat is porous to start with. When it's applied to the mold is has a high shine next to the mold, but deeper into the gel there can be minute bubbles. As the boat ages and the gel is progressively worn/polished away the porous gel is exposed.This is then impossible to buff back to the original level of shine. I'm inclined towards this personally.
My 40 year old gel coat still responds well to T cut and waxing every year. No sign of any deterioration as the coating is removed.
Interested to hear of better products than t cut, any names please?