Calorifier questions

Boo2

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Hi,

I'm installing a Nanni N4.38 diesel in Sunrunner (UFO 34) and it occurred to me that I should think about installing a calorifier at the same time. I really know nothing about them except they run off the freshwater loop, does anyone know a good website that explains the ins and outs of calorifier installations ?

I'm obviously interested to know what the best makes are and what is reasonable in terms of sizing given I will mostly be on my own. Also, things like the hot water pump type and make, I assume the engine side just has the engine coolant pumped through it by the engine freshwater pump ?

As for location, are there any restrictions or strong advisories ? I don't think there'll be room in the engine compartment, it could go under a quarter berth but that would be hot on summer nights, alternatively under the kitchen sink would do, any comments ?

Thanks,

Boo2
 
A good explanation of how calorifiers are plumbed is in the Surecal brochure - http://www.surejust.co.uk/PDF/brocher1.pdf

The engine's own circulation pump pushes hot water through the calorifier coil. For best results, the calorifier should be mounted fairly close to the engine. There isn't a hot water pump - the calorifier contains pressurised water supplied from your existing cold domestic system. A thermostatic mixing valve is standard with most calorifiers and is essential. Calorifiers contain an immersion heater element, and these vary in power between 1kW and 2kW usually; choose a rating which is appropriate to your mains supply.

Surecal calorifiers are reasonably-priced and fairly good quality (and UK made). More expensive makes include Isotemp ( http://isotherm-parts.com/product-range-isotemp-waterheaters-c-4_34.html ) who also make a rectangular calorifier which might fit in awkward places more easily.

Bear in mind that, when full, the calorifier is a heavy lump and needs to be very securely mounted in the boat.
 
A good explanation of how calorifiers are plumbed is in the Surecal brochure - http://www.surejust.co.uk/PDF/brocher1.pdf

The engine's own circulation pump pushes hot water through the calorifier coil. For best results, the calorifier should be mounted fairly close to the engine. There isn't a hot water pump - the calorifier contains pressurised water supplied from your existing cold domestic system. A thermostatic mixing valve is standard with most calorifiers and is essential. Calorifiers contain an immersion heater element, and these vary in power between 1kW and 2kW usually; choose a rating which is appropriate to your mains supply.

Surecal calorifiers are reasonably-priced and fairly good quality (and UK made). More expensive makes include Isotemp ( http://isotherm-parts.com/product-range-isotemp-waterheaters-c-4_34.html ) who also make a rectangular calorifier which might fit in awkward places more easily.

Bear in mind that, when full, the calorifier is a heavy lump and needs to be very securely mounted in the boat.

Good advice from pvb.

In terms of placement, and reinforcing the need to keep the supply from the engine to the calorifier short, you say that there is not room above the engine. I had a similar problem so I sited the calorifier in the cockpit locker on the other side of the bulkhead but adjacent to the engine with very little extra length of pipework. Also should the PVB blow, any water released only goes into the bilge.

Make sure you use reinforced pipework - the type with braiding in the walls - from the calorifier to the hot tap(s) as there will be additional pressure due the expansion of the water.

Also think about your 240V supply for the immersion heater as the amount of water in the tank is limited and so you will use it up very quickly. As long as you have a safe RCD protected 240v supply and have marina hook up access then its not a problem.

Ensure that you can access the "business" end of the calorifier easily as you will need access to drain the calorifier in the winter (you are advised to fit a drain to the cold water inlet for this purpose) and also in the hopefully unlikely event of needing to replace the 240V immersion heater element.

Hope this helps
 
A good explanation of how calorifiers are plumbed is in the Surecal brochure - http://www.surejust.co.uk/PDF/brocher1.pdf

The engine's own circulation pump pushes hot water through the calorifier coil. For best results, the calorifier should be mounted fairly close to the engine. There isn't a hot water pump - the calorifier contains pressurised water supplied from your existing cold domestic system. A thermostatic mixing valve is standard with most calorifiers and is essential. Calorifiers contain an immersion heater element, and these vary in power between 1kW and 2kW usually; choose a rating which is appropriate to your mains supply.

Surecal calorifiers are reasonably-priced and fairly good quality (and UK made). More expensive makes include Isotemp ( http://isotherm-parts.com/product-range-isotemp-waterheaters-c-4_34.html ) who also make a rectangular calorifier which might fit in awkward places more easily.

Bear in mind that, when full, the calorifier is a heavy lump and needs to be very securely mounted in the boat.
Absolutely. I had to replace my calorifier a couple of years ago and surecal made a no-brainier solution. Made on Isle of Wight, very good quality, heats up very quickly, keeps water hot enough for washing up or shower for nearly 24 hours, and far better value than isotherm. Go for copper as well as this does much to keep the water bug free. Excellent customer services (ask advice from Matthew Battle).

It may cost a bit more, but fit a manifold if you can. This will take the cold water supply from your tank and distribute it from multiple outputs to, variously, your galley, heads, shower, etc., but also to your calorifier, which then supplies hot to each location. There's a very clear set of schematics on the surecal website.

All in all, you won't look back. Go for it!
 
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