Cabling

Forbsie

Forbsie

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I'm planning the re-cabling of my 25' river boat. The lighting circuits total around 100' in runs of up to 15' from the switch panel. I haven't bought the lights yet but doing a quick tally they would equal around 140-150W.

1. Since I don't want to buy lots of reels of different guage wire, would I be sensible (there is a first time for everything) buying 2 x 100' of 2.5mm2 wire to cope with the highest rated component?

2. Looking at catalogues and websites, they rarely mention whether the wires are tinned. Is this normal and should I assume they are not?

3. Should I just use single core cable or could I use the 3-core that TLC sell for instance?

4. Can anyone suggest a good supplier? I am currently looking at http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/ and Tender to...
 
Best quality is best as it will be there a long time .
As long as you take into account volt drop caused by resistance and length of cable you'l be fine , if you want the calculation I could find it .
Cheers
Mick

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/boats
I need a couple of oak tree's .. for me trawler
 
I'd use Index Marine or one of the other marine suppliers.
Use tinned wire and most of that is obtainable from marine suppliers as it's not used elsewhere.
Index do a good catalogue which they'll send you if you ask, or go on the web and they have most of it on the web.

Jim
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Unless the wire is called tinned - its not. Its mostly automotive quality - which is not good enough. Chandlers have never heard of it and certainly most do not stock it.

There have been post some time back with contacts, so do a search on Tinned
 
I just re-wired my own boat, and did it as you suggest.
I bought from West Marine two reels each red and black AWG 12, which correspond to 2.5 mm2 (actually nearly 3 mm2).
It's important not to solder the terminations, but to use exclusively crimped terminals.
The crimping tool must be from the ratcheting sort, to make sure the applied pressure is correct.
As already suggested, it is easier to use single core.

Good luck
 
Is that the American online store 'West Marine'?

I've also been meaning to pick your brains about your main hobby.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.seafin.co.uk>Tender to...</A>
 
HI There,
I have just completed a rewire on a Rival 31 for a friend, most of the parts were purchased from Vehicle Wiring Products who were most helpfull. They also sell by the meter for the more uncomon cable sizes. I used standard automotive cable crimp connectors ect, I sail a 22 year old southerly, its origonal cable system is still working, this was also made up from Automotive products. Good luck with your Job it will probally take a lot longer than you expect.
 
Tinned wire is definitely worthwhile in the long run in a damp environment. If you use untinned wire the negative wire will quickly turn black on the surface and it will then be very difficult to make a good contact if you want to alter anything. It will also be impossible to solder.
 
If you go on inland waterways, you'll need a safety certificate. Amoung other things, they demand that you use wire with many strands. Single strand is banned on the grounds that it work hardens and fractures from vibrations.

I've never bothered with tinned, but it's worth vaselining all exposed ends to stop water getting at the bare copper.
 
I also don’t think you should be using solid cable in something that is not rigid. Over time the slight flexing on a river boat will lead to the solid cores weakening and even breaking due to fatigue. You also should not bend in a sharp radius cabling again even more so solid. I saw at a 2nd hand boat show one that had had mains wiring installed using solid core and there was cracking at the only screw joint I looked at due to flexing.
 
I have just phoned Farnell's after looking on their site. They seemingly can't offer technical support to those without an account. I am totally confused looking at their vast selection as to which one is best for me.

I definitely want tinned copper and stranded, 2-3mm2, oil and heat resistant.

Does it make any difference when they quote AC voltage?
Any ideas which type I should be looking at?

Sorry for being so stupid. I read my 'Boat Electrics' book while on holiday and am still trying to get my head round this.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.seafin.co.uk>Tender to...</A>
 
most all cable sold is pvc covered: max temp 70C.....there is a "high temp" pvc that's rated to 105C & slightly harder wearing. All pvc's tend to become brittle with oil or petrol. & temp's are for a single cable in air, not enclosed or lying in oil.

ptfe coating is better, although expensive/stiff , raychem make a "flexlite" alternative still good for high temp/oil....if you need real oil resistant stuff, don't use pvc covered cable or sleeve....tho' the 105 degree stuff is better.

Most OE car/bike engine wiring uses silicone covered wire (v.flexible) with glass braid sleeve on top- good stuff & presumably cheap to the manufacturers, but hard to find in small quantities, esp in 2-3mm2.

I found farnells site a pain too, go with rs or maplin or index marine maybe?

Don't worry about oil resistant stuff unless it'll be dripped/leaked on a lot.

AC bit doesn't matter .

Stick to a marine cable sizing/current table, don't follow electronics catalogue guides/spec's for current.

www.power-store.com (merlin equipment ltd) sell ancor wire/accessories: the ancor catalogue is good: don't know prices , but the cable is more flexible than most you'll see in electronics lists, due to more strands per sq mm.

Not sure if all that will help, or confuse things even more?
 
You're right, look at http://www.westmarine.com.
I got the material from them, because it's not available here in Spain, or only in small quantities and at horror price. And they were the only ones able to deliver everything I wanted from stock.

BTW the cable I used is the Ancor brand, which is oil and water resistant, and rated at 105°C. I think, in your case, (Shorter runs), AWG14 would be O.K.

Feel free to PM me for any further question.
 
when you get an answer let me know m8 - I need to replace the works in due course as you know.
ps varnishing is a relatively sad occupation - don't expect clarification!
see you for a beer later this month
 
soldered joints tend to be brittle and, in a vibratory enviroment (that will get PaulineB running), there is an risk of a broken joint through cracking.
You will not find many cars/lorries with soldered joints in their looms for this reason - apparantly
 
Do I need special crimp connections (Tinned?) or can I just buy a kit from normal suppliers. I will be using ratchet crimping tool although shame I can't use my old network coax tool instead.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.seafin.co.uk>Tender to...</A>
 
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