Cable Loom for Mast Navigation Lights

[fluffc]

I have a traditional boat, with a gaff rig. During this winter's fitout I am going to replace the electrical cabling for all the electrical items.

On the mast and shrouds are the following items:

Port Light
Starboard Light
Steaming Light
Masthead Light
Deck Light

Now, this adds up to five cables running from the switchboard; through either a super-sized deck gland or several glands; and up the rigging to wherever each light is.

I am proposing to run the cable using a 7-Core trailer cable, with a junction box at the spreaders. Two of the cores in the cable to be used as neutral. This will enable a much neater cabling loom inside the boat, and have just one cable coming through the deck and up most of the rigging.

Does anyone have any experience or suggestions as to the suitability of this proposal.

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[paulrossall]

Some would say that you should only used tinned wire so the problem of copper wire reacting with the salty environment is eliminated.
However I have used multi-cable as you sugest. There are different qualities of trailer-type cable you can buy. The basic one has very small cores. I used one bought from a motor factor who supplies the lighting systems for lorries and articulated trailers. This was heavy duty cable. Once the installation is complete I would spray the terminals which are outside the boat with one of the battery terminal sprays which you can buy at Halfords. This stops the salty air getting to the copper wires and prevents corrosion. The white wire is normaly thicker than the other cables and would normally be used as the neutral. The deck light is likely to take significantly more current than the other lights and if there is a spare cable I would double up on that supply. From the junction box on the spreaders going to the individual lights I would not use the same wire but would probably use tinned wire.

<hr width=100% size=1>" there is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats".

 

[Peterduck]

Your query raises more questions; can we assume a timber mast, as you are gaff-rigged, and does it have a large enough hole up the middle? The jacket on multi-core trailer wire is quite thick and may have to be removed to get the cables up the mast. Are your port and starboard lights on light boards on the shrouds? If they are, you could consider them as separate issues to the mast lamps, which will then be anchor light, steaming light & deck light, which will require four conductors. As the navigation lights both work together, they can be wired in parallel, requiring only two conductors. If they are on light boards, their cables are probably most neatly run by coming up through the deck near a chainplate and running up a shroud to the lightboard. While you are at it, you could convert your masthead anchor light and navigation lights to LEDs, which require so little current that you can leave them running all night without worrying about your battery. I have done this on my gaff ketch "Swallow", and they work a treat! If you give me your email address, I can send you an article which I wrote on how to do this for yourself.
Peter.

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[Mirelle]

I'm obviously a heathen. Gaff rigged boat, wooden mast, masthead tricolour and all round white (3 core) steaming light (2 core) and side lights on light boards (separate 2 core wires, common negative below deck).

All 2.5 mm cross section tinned multistrand, double rubber covered, run up the rigging with (this is important!) plugs in the rigging about 4ft off the deck, i.e. clear of water on deck) This is a lot of wire to clip to rigging and does not look pretty but voltage drop is not an issue, nor is water getting into the mast!

<hr width=100% size=1>Que scais-je?

 

[audacity]

Peter

would also appreciate copy of article with reference to LED repalcement for NAV lights. If you would be kind enough to send.

Rgds Nigel

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[RogerH]

Peter - I'd appreciate a copy of the article.

Many thanks

Roger
r.m.harrison@open.ac.uk

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[Peterduck]

Hi Nigel, you'll have to post your email address so that I can send you the article.
Peter.

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