Cable exit holes in a wooden mast?

[prv]

Kindred Spirit has a spruce mast with an internal cable duct (I think routed out of the two halves before they were glued together). The cables emerge at hounds and masthead via rough holes chiseled through to the duct. When we got her, these were both "sealed" with a big dob of silicone, with varnish attempting to cover over it. (Naturally the varnish didn't stick well to the silicone, so water was getting under it and then continuing to track under it across the wood.)

I made a start on varnishing the mast at the weekend, and cleaned up these holes removing all the silicone, blown varnish, etc. However, I'm unsure how to re-seal them once I've finished varnishing. Two things that spring to mind are 1) re-sealing with silicone, but dig it out and reapply after each revarnishing, instead of varnishing over it or 2) make up some little copper or thin stainless "hoods" to go over the holes. 2 sounds appealing except that the cables don't really want to lead downwards (one goes around the mast, another goes upwards), and it won't be especially rainproof when the mast is lying down which it does all winter outside.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Pete

 

[maxcampbell]

exit holes

I combined both your suggestions - ie flexible glue "bung" (sikaflex type, rather than silicon), then bought SS hoods, screwed over top (available in several different sizes). My mast also spends a lot of the time horizontal, on the trailer - maybe I should worry, but I don't.

 

[prv]

bought SS hoods

That's interesting - I didn't know you could buy them ready-made. I was going to hammer them out of a piece of old water-heater casing I have to hand

I'm leaning away from that idea because of the cables not running downwards, so the hoods would need holes in places other than the bottom and then they wouldn't really keep the water out any more. Might just have to stick with the silicone, I spose.

Pete

 

[Silent Lady]

Sikaflex

I would have thought a good few coats of varnish in and round the hole and then when its dry Sikaflex to seal it. If you do it the other way the varnish will not stick to the Sikaflex for long.

 

[prv]

I would have thought a good few coats of varnish in and round the hole and then when its dry Sikaflex to seal it. If you do it the other way the varnish will not stick to the Sikaflex for long.

I'm a bit wary of using Sikaflex to seal it as I might want to run new wires one day. The old silicone still seemed to be sealing the hole, and it dug out reasonably easily with a screwdriver.

I'm varnishing the mast at the moment, and am making sure the holes get plenty. I'm not going to try to varnish over the silicone once I've done it.

It sounds like what I'm doing is the best approach, I was just wondering if there was some well-known "best way" of solving the problem. But I suppose real old gaffers either don't have lights up there at all, or run the wires up a handy shroud

Pete

 

[Seanick]

We use the ss mini shell vents too, with a drip loop going downwards then back up. You may have to relieve the exit hole for an easy wire run.
The vents are by Perko, from ASAP.
We have made copper ones for larger wire clusters, but one needs to roll the edge to prevent sharp edges.

Be wary of silicone, it contaminates the surrounding varnish and it wont stick. Use a polyurethene sealant and keep sillycone for the bath.