Buying "new" 2013 boat

Coustea1

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I finally made up my mind (read: got permission from SWMBO) but would appreciate your view.
The boat I'm interested in is "new", in the sense that it has never been in the water and has zero hours on the engine (sterndrive), full waranty etc., but...it is a 2013 model. This means that the dealer has not been able to sell that boat since 2013. Should I worry about that?
I do get a deal that reflects the fact it isn't the 2015 model, but still want to know if there is anything I should look out for.

Many many thanks for your feedback.
 
I finally made up my mind (read: got permission from SWMBO) but would appreciate your view.
The boat I'm interested in is "new", in the sense that it has never been in the water and has zero hours on the engine (sterndrive), full waranty etc., but...it is a 2013 model. This means that the dealer has not been able to sell that boat since 2013. Should I worry about that?
I do get a deal that reflects the fact it isn't the 2015 model, but still want to know if there is anything I should look out for.

Many many thanks for your feedback.

Standard waranty, esp engines and hull should kick in on commission.
Check that the boat hasn't been hauled around too much and it might be worth a hull survey.
Insist on a forensic PDI and get assurances that the boat hasn't been refused by another buyer.

I bought a 2 year old American boat, it was shrink wrapped and engines not commissioned. Had no problems, so in principal no problem.
Might be worth identifying the boat for the forum as it might be 'known'.

Good luck :)
 
Whether or not it's been used, its still a secondhand boat and 18 months or whatever is still more than enough time for components to deteriorate. Personally, I would be insisting that the purchase be subject to a satisfactory seatrial and survey. Far better that you know about any potential issues up front than discover them during the warranty period and have to fight the dealer to get them fixed
 
Whether or not it's been used, its still a secondhand boat and 18 months or whatever is still more than enough time for components to deteriorate. Personally, I would be insisting that the purchase be subject to a satisfactory seatrial and survey. Far better that you know about any potential issues up front than discover them during the warranty period and have to fight the dealer to get them fixed

Do you apply the same rule to cars?

Do you look up when your car was built when you buy it? Because many are built more than 12 months in advance (even from prestige manufacturers).
I know of BMWs sold brand new (because they still had the wraps on and the blocks in) with no question that were over 24 months since production.
 
Do you apply the same rule to cars?

Do you look up when your car was built when you buy it? Because many are built more than 12 months in advance (even from prestige manufacturers).
I know of BMWs sold brand new (because they still had the wraps on and the blocks in) with no question that were over 24 months since production.

Yup, we bought a 0 miles Mini Convertible last April that had been pre-registered on 31/12. A few months later I noticed that it has been built the previous summer so 10 months old when we bought it.
 
Do you look up when your car was built when you buy it? Because many are built more than 12 months in advance (even from prestige manufacturers).
I know of BMWs sold brand new (because they still had the wraps on and the blocks in) with no question that were over 24 months since production.

In my case, if I buy a new car, I want it built to my spec so I'm happy to wait until it's built and take delivery a few days after it leaves the factory. If I was buying a dealer's stock car and the tyre dates confirmed it was built 2 yrs earlier, I think I would probably get it checked out by an independent inspector
 
Yup, we bought a 0 miles Mini Convertible last April that had been pre-registered on 31/12. A few months later I noticed that it has been built the previous summer so 10 months old when we bought it.

I didn't mean pre-registered (but your case highlights my point).

Also when we buy a used car we are all happy to accept the Regustration date as the 'commissioning date' I.e a car registered in 2006 becomes a 06 car even if it were built in 04.

Why should an u commissioned unused wrapped up biat be any different?
 
I didn't mean pre-registered (but your case highlights my point).

Also when we buy a used car we are all happy to accept the Regustration date as the 'commissioning date' I.e a car registered in 2006 becomes a 06 car even if it were built in 04.

Why should an u commissioned unused wrapped up biat be any different?

It's not really a comparison that the op should consider, any car is pretty much bought with a guaranteed buy back figure these days, a car will not be full of third party components in the same way a boat is built and the car will not have been dragged around various boat shows, let alone been stood in or near the sea. (Unless it recently took a vacation on Bramble bank) :)

I don't think he op can be too careful, both with getting the right price, >20 percent off current list, full inspection and comprehensive assurances regarding warrantee.

But nothing wrong with the idea as long as the op isn't mugged when the boat goes back into the market as a second hand 2013 boat....
 
I finally made up my mind (read: got permission from SWMBO) but would appreciate your view.
The boat I'm interested in is "new", in the sense that it has never been in the water and has zero hours on the engine (sterndrive), full waranty etc., but...it is a 2013 model. This means that the dealer has not been able to sell that boat since 2013. Should I worry about that?
I do get a deal that reflects the fact it isn't the 2015 model, but still want to know if there is anything I should look out for.

Many many thanks for your feedback.
It might not be that he can't sell the boat, but he has just used it in the showroom perhaps? If the boat is so off the wall even a dealer cannot sell it, I would have a serious think how you are going to sell it.
No reason to suspect this is not the case, but I would also check that it is CE plated (properly).
Somewhat depends what kind of boat you are considering...
It also depends on what you mean by 2013 model.. the HIN (hull number) will tell you when the hull(and probably the boat) was made.It might be 2012 even.
I do not think you need to start running at all, but I personally I would like to understand the boat (and so my risks) a bit better.
 
I've bought boats in this vein in the past and there have been no warranty issues etc. The price must be substantially reduced though as it will revert to the original date of manufacture when being valued in the future. Nobody will think of it as a 2015 but as 2013 in great condition and with low engine hours.

The other thing I would think critical is to ensure that the sterndrives are checked and any mods/updates (generally there can be quite a lot) are done before you take delivery
 
I've bought boats in this vein in the past and there have been no warranty issues etc. The price must be substantially reduced though as it will revert to the original date of manufacture when being valued in the future. Nobody will think of it as a 2015 but as 2013 in great condition and with low engine hours.

The other thing I would think critical is to ensure that the sterndrives are checked and any mods/updates (generally there can be quite a lot) are done before you take delivery

+ 1, my Volvos have had maybe 5 recalls/updates in the last 14 months so that really should be queried with the dealer....
 
I've bought boats in this vein in the past and there have been no warranty issues etc. The price must be substantially reduced though as it will revert to the original date of manufacture when being valued in the future. Nobody will think of it as a 2015 but as 2013 in great condition and with low engine hours.

The other thing I would think critical is to ensure that the sterndrives are checked and any mods/updates (generally there can be quite a lot) are done before you take delivery


Thank you - I actually didn't think about the engine upgrades.
 
Thank you - I actually didn't think about the engine upgrades.

Be very, very careful. Get an assurance in writing that the supplying dealer will fully cover the original OEM "new" warranty.

I bought a "left over" 2004 boat in 2005; it was wonderful for 9 years, a GM V8 EFi engine petrol engine with no issues at all by it being the previous year's model. I wish I still had it.

My most recent purchase of an unsold dealers "new" boat with a VP EVC diesel has been a lot more problematic; to the extent that the 2014 season was lost altogether. Not so much all their/ the OEMs fault although the engine/ electrics system was not strictly to VPs requirements, , but the very major issue was with Volvo Pentas EVC-C system and components.
 
I made sure all the warranties for engines, air con, generator etc would start from commissioning date, got it in writing & double checked with the various companies that would be responsible, all were ok, but none needed fortunately. The only thing that did need fixing was the teak on the swim platform, which the boat builder, Absolute, didn't want to know. I vowed to mention this publicly whenever possible, & will continue to do so, very poor, had been in water less than one year & it was due to wear apparently, but then I did pay very little for her so the poor dealer sort of paid, in a way, he was less than impressed, & will probably sell me / son another boat one day.
 
For a Sea Ray (and all other boats), presumably marketed as being manufactured outside the EU, the Proper CE marking and individual certificate for the exact boat in question is mandatory.

Absolutely should not by a problem on a Sea Ray, but it is a point to check.
 
Hi. Without doubt, I'd have a full survey of the boat, plus a full mechanical survey, the costs of which and any required remedial work, should be taken off the previously agreed reduced price. In other words, agree a price subject to survey, and then agree that the costs of the surveys (as well as any subsequent work) are reflected in further price reductions. Harsh, but fair.

As has been said, you need to ensure the engines have had every manufacturer's updates and any electronics have had their upgrades. I'd also look behind all the fabrics to see if there's any mould lurking around.

If you are going to demand the Dealer gives a warranty of any sort, ensure he has the collateral to back it. My recommendation would be to have the manufacturer give the warranty....
 
Hi. Without doubt, I'd have a full survey of the boat, plus a full mechanical survey, the costs of which and any required remedial work, should be taken off the previously agreed reduced price. In other words, agree a price subject to survey, and then agree that the costs of the surveys (as well as any subsequent work) are reflected in further price reductions. Harsh, but fair.

As has been said, you need to ensure the engines have had every manufacturer's updates and any electronics have had their upgrades. I'd also look behind all the fabrics to see if there's any mould lurking around.

If you are going to demand the Dealer gives a warranty of any sort, ensure he has the collateral to back it. My recommendation would be to have the manufacturer give the warranty....

I'm sure the dealer/builder are a business not a charity, why should they give this boat away, its new after all, unless they are desperate I can't see they will sell this at a loss just so you can have the boat you want, yes by all means give a discount for it being in stock but if you not happy with that then get a forward order that you know is built for you, but then it will cost more. Personally if I was offered a generous discount I would be a little flexible when it came to things going wrong, ie if it was major mechanical or structural defect then I would expect it sorted but I wouldn't go shouting if a light wasn't working or water pump failed.
 
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