Bukh Dv20 engine mounta

I've no experience of them, but the fact that the spec is precise about stiffness rating and the metal parts are stainless steel is encouraging.

I seem to recall others reporting satisfactory results with non-Bukh branded mounts for their Bukhs, though I can't remember which brands/suppliers.

Bukh branded mounts are very unlikely to be manufactured by Bukh themselves, and their prices for various 'bought-in' parts are significantly more expensive than the same things from the actual manufacturer where these can be tracked down. (Maybe those plastic bags with the Bukh logo and part number are very expensive to produce? ;))
 
Engine mounts are very expensive. Why? Aftermarket ones are much sheaper. Again, why? You are not just paying extra for the name, although that can be part of it, specially with Volvos

Cheap ones can work quite well for a while, until the rubber starts to split or seperate from the steel. They actually work quite hard, not only absorbing vibration but taking all the strain of a running engine that is being thrown around in a seaway. Think about the huge inertia of the hefty Bukh flywheel in a choppy sea! Thats a lot of spinning weight to throw around! The Gyroscopic inertial forces must be huge!
 
But surely Bukh are selling mounts they buy in? I have just removed a Bukh and there is very little flex - nothing like that of the Beta and Yanmar engines I have installed. I would go with aftermarket ones from a reputable supplier.
 
I would remove and inspect them, if the rubber is still sound (not soaked in oil or diesel) and bonded to the metal and the rust is only on the surface I would be cleaning them up, giving them a coat of paint and refitting them.
 
But surely Bukh are selling mounts they buy in? I have just removed a Bukh and there is very little flex - nothing like that of the Beta and Yanmar engines I have installed. I would go with aftermarket ones from a reputable supplier.
Cheap ones can work quite well for a while, until the rubber starts to split or seperate from the steel. They actually work quite hard, not only absorbing vibration but taking all the strain of a running engine that is being thrown around in a seaway. Think about the huge inertia of the hefty Bukh flywheel in a choppy sea! Thats a lot of spinning weight to throw around! The Gyroscopic inertial forces must be huge!

Never mind the flywheel, what about the rest of it, too? 😄

Bukh DV series engines are old technology (though DV24 & DV36 models still in production today), and way heavier than a modern lightweight engine, so inevitably require significantly stiffer mounts.

E.g.

Beta 10hp - 89kg
Bukh DV10 - 150kg

Beta 20hp - 104kg
Bukh DV20 - 210kg

Beta 35hp - 168kg
Bukh DV36 - 265kg
 
But surely Bukh are selling mounts they buy in? I have just removed a Bukh and there is very little flex - nothing like that of the Beta and Yanmar engines I have installed. I would go with aftermarket ones from a reputable supplier.
Yes but like car manufacturers they only buy in parts manufactured to a warranted specification from approved manufacturers. If you can find out who supplies the originals, you may be able to buy direct at a worthwhile saving.
 
Yes but like car manufacturers they only buy in parts manufactured to a warranted specification from approved manufacturers. If you can find out who supplies the originals, you may be able to buy direct at a worthwhile saving.
I posted this years ago.


I used to buy mine from Robush.com and think I listed the part numbers. They said they were widely used on small site generators. I think only thing special was a different rating between front and rear (and 'special' magic red paint to triple the price).

I had the DV20 for about 25 years and it wasn't new when I bought that boat. I think I bought about 4 or 6 and they lasted well. A diesel leak killed one set.

They were about 1/3 price of OEM version but had the same part numbers stamped on them. I expect the price might have gone up a lot but still cheaper than OEM versions.

You could just prop up around each in turn, remove, clean and paint if the rubber is still fine. Mine lasted many years and only failed due to a diesel leak. The "rubber" was swollen and soft. Yours may still be fine if the "rubber" is OK.
 
Last edited:
Yes but like car manufacturers they only buy in parts manufactured to a warranted specification from approved manufacturers. If you can find out who supplies the originals, you may be able to buy direct at a worthwhile saving.
Trelleborg.
UK distributor : Robush Ltd
 
Agree, rust is not an issue unless its really bad. If the rubber is sound and not cracking or detaching then just clean surface rust, use a rust convertor like Fertan, prime, paint and put back in, saving several hundred beer tokens!
 
Top