bukh dv20 amp light on control panel

[Rhylsailer99]

My red amp light does not come on when i turn the key but the alternator seems to be charging.
would it be ok to remove the oil led or temp led and try it in the amp led just to see if the problem is a bad led.

 

[V1701]

Have you checked with a multimeter?

 

[Rhylsailer99]

Im going to have a look later today , looking at the circuit the audible alarm is on the same circuit as the led and the alarm works so i have a feeling its a bad led as last year it used to flicker on an off during normal running.

 

[europe172]

Some bukh dv20 have a resistor in the amp light to provide the excitation current, swapping lamps will not work with them

 

[sgr143]

A couple of years back, the engine wiring on Osprey (DV20 engine) had been getting increasingly tatty, and the control panel warning lights had fallen to bits. I finally bit the bullet and stripped everything out. Initially, I thought about replacing the control panel, but parsimony, my preference for keeping things close-to-original where I can and the pleasure I get out of fixing things meant I just replaced the warning lights. Bukh ones being rather pricy and also irritatingly small and hard to see, I put three round lights in an unused black square on the panel; like this:

I took out the old lights, blanked off the holes with a bit of scrap plastic, and painted over. I renewed the wiring at the back of the panel, replacing one wire at a time.
Note the big black button in the top-right square. This a hold-down-to-connect switch wired in series between the ignition switch’s “stop” terminal and the engine stop solenoid. The ignition switch is a bit worn, and doesn’t reliably spring back from the stop position. The result on one occasion was a burnt-out stop solenoid and an engine that had to be stopped by blocking the air intake with a towel stuffed into a thick plastic bag. (Just call me “Othello”.). Stop solenoids are expensive! So the engine-off procedure is “key fully anticlockwise, push the button”. I might replace the switch sometime.

• Lights: Furneaux Riddall: 0-609-05, 0-609-02, 0-609-10.
• Engine-off button: Furneaux Riddall: 6JF-001-571-041

 

[Rhylsailer99]

Some bukh dv20 have a resistor in the amp light to provide the excitation current, swapping lamps will not work with them

Exactly that's why I've had to buy a genuine over priced buck amp light

 

[VicS]

Exactly that's why I've had to buy a genuine over priced buck amp light

I think you will find that early engine panels had a 2 watt bulb as the charge warning light while later ones have a 0.5 watt bulb with additional resistors ( 2x 270 ohms) fitted to the diode plate to provide adequate excitation current.

 

[sgr143]

Exactly that's why I've had to buy a genuine over priced buck amp light

The set-up I've described in post #5 above works fine for exciting the field coils in the alternator. Normal incandescent bulbs in the lights, not LEDs. I don't know what Wattage (just what was in them as bought) - but I don't think it's critical. They are nice and bright though, for the few seconds they are lit up (certainly brighter than the Bukh originals) - so they must pass a decent amount of current.

 

[Rhylsailer99]

After a. Big headache just got it working the exciter 61 wire was wired to the temp light and the amp light went into the charge llight strange .

 

[Rhylsailer99]

Now when I turn the key amp and oil light comes and then they both go off when the engine starts .
Not sure if this is correct but if I earth out the temp sender with the engine running the oil and temp plus alarm go off.

 

[Rhylsailer99]

It's driving me nuts back in the water today and amp light and alarm come back on and no power from alternator. After fiddling with the Wires amp light is off now when the engine is running and battery charging but alarm noise is on .

 

[europe172]

Now when I turn the key amp and oil light comes and then they both go off when the engine starts .
Not sure if this is correct but if I earth out the temp sender with the engine running the oil and temp plus alarm go off.

Check you have good earth returns

 

[sgr143]

Check you have good earth returns

That, and make sure the alarm is not due to the oil pressure or (less likely at start-up) the water temperature sensor rather than the alternator.
It was random shenanigans like this that led to my eventually replacing all the wiring, connectors and bulbs. No problems since.

 

[Rhylsailer99]

That, and make sure the alarm is not due to the oil pressure or (less likely at start-up) the water temperature sensor rather than the alternator.
I will try a new amp light next time i go to the boat . A lot of the connections on the control panel are corroded ,probably would have been a good idea to totally remove it and clean them all up. I am now more confident to do this as after hours of looking at diagrams, I've more or less memorized where everything goes.