Bukh DV 24 temp. sender help please

Little Dorrit

Little Dorrit

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The temperature sender has two spade terminals one terminal has a yellow green wire going to the temperature light on my dash and having checked I have continuity between this (yellow green) wire and the dash light. The other terminal does not have a wire attached? The temperature light does not light up when the ignition is turned. There is 12 v on the light terminal. Have I got a faulty temperature sender or should there be an additional wire connected to the sender and if so where should this go? Is there a way to check if the sender is working?
 
I believe the second terminal is to connect a gauge that displays the temperature rather than the on/off light that you have connected.

Temperature lights only come on when the coolant is too hot which should not normally happen and certainly won't happen when you turn the ignition on.

You could check the sender by removing it from the engine and putting it in hot water to see if that operates but not sure that is worthwhile
 
The warning light will only come on if the engine overheats.

The other terminal on the sender is for a temperature gauge

The only way to check the sender is to remove it and monitor the continuity between the terminal to which the yellow green wire attaches and the body of it as you heat it in a pan of water. When the "alarm" temperature is exceeded you should suddenly find continuity ......... Its a switch that switches on when the alarm temperature is exceeded

I thought the workshop manual might say the temperature at which the warning light should come on but I don't see it in there.
 
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VicS said:
The warning light will only come on if the engine overheats.

The other terminal on the sender is for a temperature gauge

The only way to check the sender is to remove it and monitor the continuity between the terminal to which the yellow green wire attaches and the body of it as you heat it in a pan of water. When the "alarm" temperature is exceeded you should suddenly find continuity ......... Its a switch that switches on when the alarm temperature is exceeded
Click to expand...

So I would not expect the dash temp. light to illuminate momentarily when I turn the ignition on? Unlike the oil pressure sender or alternator charging lights which do illuminate momentarily on starting?
 
If the sender on the DV24 is like the one on my DV20, they are absolute buggers for failing by stress-corrosion cracking. I seem to go through one about every 18 months. Yours might have an incipient crack? On mine at least, it's the smaller terminal that runs the alarm - the bigger one, as others have said, is for a temperature gauge (which in my case I have not got).
 
Little Dorrit said:
So I would not expect the dash temp. light to illuminate momentarily when I turn the ignition on? Unlike the oil pressure sender or alternator charging lights which do illuminate momentarily on starting?
Click to expand...
No

There is no circuitry to make it do that

The low oil pressure warning light illuminates becaue ther is no oil pressure until the engine is running

The alternator "no charge" light illuminates because the alternator is not charging until the engine is running
 
sgr143 said:
If the sender on the DV24 is like the one on my DV20, they are absolute buggers for failing by stress-corrosion cracking. I seem to go through one about every 18 months. Yours might have an incipient crack? On mine at least, it's the smaller terminal that runs the alarm - the bigger one, as others have said, is for a temperature gauge (which in my case I have not got).
Click to expand...
Does your temp. warning light illuminate on turning the ignition? Now answered by VicS!
 
VicS said:
No

There is no circuitry to make it do that

The low oil pressure warning light illuminates becaue ther is no oil pressure until the engine is running

The alternator "no charge" light illuminates because the alternator is not charging until the engine is running
Click to expand...
Thanks for confirmation of that. I have just had all the ignition panel to pieces to fit a tachometer and thought that I might have got the wiring wrong but it appears not, thanks once again for your help.
 
You can check the light is working by shorting the wire between the lamp and the sender to earth. (This won't tell you if the sender itself is working, but Bedouin and Vic have explained how to do that - see below.)

bedouin said:
You could check the sender by removing it from the engine and putting it in hot water to see if that operates but not sure that is worthwhile
Click to expand...

VicS said:
The only way to check the sender is to remove it and monitor the continuity between the terminal to which the yellow green wire attaches and the body of it as you heat it in a pan of water. When the "alarm" temperature is exceeded you should suddenly find continuity ......... Its a switch that switches on when the alarm temperature is exceeded

I thought the workshop manual might say the temperature at which the warning light should come on but I don't see it in there.
Click to expand...

However, the Owner's Manual does specify the engine operating temperatures -
Direct Cooled - 50 to 70 degrees C
Indirect Cooled - 70 to 95 degrees C
I would expect the temperature sender to close the circuit a little above the relevant highest temperature.
 
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Just purchased a BUKH DV24ME 2 cylinder donkey and I'm in need of a parts manual, and a workshop manual. The user manual is available, BUT I'm not having any luck finding the other 2.

Also I need to know the internal diameter of the hot water hose that connects to the exhaust mixing elbow and the one that goes from the sea water pump to the inlet strainer. Looks like 3/4 inch, but that's a wild guess.
 
Great, thanks for that. the dealer did send me the parts list download, BUT refused to supply a link or info on how to get a full workshop manual, presumably because they like to repair or overhaul any defective engines.
 
Be aware that the Bukh Workshop Manuals can be a bit (a lot!) cryptic. Assumes quite a bit of background knowledge of Bukhs, and can take some puzzling out to the uninitiated.

I've also heard it suggested that the workshop manuals were translated from Danish into English via German. I don't know if that's true, but it certainly wasn't translated by someone fluent in both Danish and English (and engineering)!
 
TNLI said:
Just purchased a BUKH DV24ME 2 cylinder donkey and I'm in need of a parts manual, and a workshop manual. The user manual is available, BUT I'm not having any luck finding the other 2.

Also I need to know the internal diameter of the hot water hose that connects to the exhaust mixing elbow and the one that goes from the sea water pump to the inlet strainer. Looks like 3/4 inch, but that's a wild guess.
Click to expand...
i had to make them myself m18 x 1.5mm i think they are
 
Great thanks for that reply, so it sounds like that hose should fit a 3/4 inch pipe, as that's the nearest. I'm just going to have to order the part and hope it fits. Looking at a hose from the outside only allows you to guess the ID.
 
TNLI said:
Great thanks for that reply, so it sounds like that hose should fit a 3/4 inch pipe, as that's the nearest. I'm just going to have to order the part and hope it fits. Looking at a hose from the outside only allows you to guess the ID.
Click to expand...
13mm hose I used for mine
TNLI said:
Just purchased a BUKH DV24ME 2 cylinder donkey and I'm in need of a parts manual, and a workshop manual. The user manual is available, BUT I'm not having any luck finding the other 2.

Also I need to know the internal diameter of the hot water hose that connects to the exhaust mixing elbow and the one that goes from the sea water pump to the inlet strainer. Looks like 3/4 inch, but that's a wild guess.
Click to expand...
13mm ID on all my pipes for the water
 
So, now I have one person saying 13mm and another saying 18mm. Alas I've ordered a 3/4 inch vented loop, and they only make them in 2 sizes, 3/4 and 1 inch. the 13mm ID does seem a bit small and worst comes to worst, I will just have to use an alloy sleeve to increase the diameter so the hose fits.
This is the far Eastern stainless and standard Vetus (It's a copy) vented loop. The Vetus copy is only 17, rather than nearly 100 quid, but I've had to order both anyway, as the stainless one will take another month before it arrives.
 

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