fearless
New Member
Looking at buying a yacht fitted with 25 year old Bukh DV20, as I have no experience of Bukhs, I am looking for any sort of enlightenment with regards to availability of spares, reliability, diagnosing faults and repair - Thanks
Bukh DV 20
- Thread starter fearless
- Start date
Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
Generally, good solid reliable engines. Originally designed for Danish fishing boats, so they love hard work. Also favoured - once upon a time, if not now – for motorised lifeboats. Nothing fancy in terms of electrics and electronics. Can be hand started if batteries go flat. Spares available - T Norris of Isleworth is a good source. The Bukh importer, based Poole, is very approachable and helpful with advice. One common problem is rot in the exhaust elbows.
dolphin
Well-Known Member
very happy with this engine ! i have DV 36 ME , produced 1986 !
http://www.bukh.co.uk/bukhhome.htm
here more info
http://www.bukh.co.uk/bukhhome.htm
here more info
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Download the workshop manual free here. A warning though, it's possibly the worst workshop manual ever written, just a collection of dat linked together by a bit of poor text. Sometimes they haven't included every action to be taken. Still, a lot better than nothing, especially for free!
PeterGibbs
Well-Known Member
You get on to Norman or Al at Bukh UK in Poole and get all the info and help you need. Their service is legendary. Tell them I referred you to them!
The Bukh is what some like to disparage as an "agricultural engine" - its galleries are uncommonly thick, and its mechanism nice and simple (head gaskit change - straight forward - even for me!) and the parts are made out of good old fashioned steel, not alloys. They are still installed because, with the necessary simple routine of TLC they really see you home. Do not be dissuaded by loose talk!
PWG
The Bukh is what some like to disparage as an "agricultural engine" - its galleries are uncommonly thick, and its mechanism nice and simple (head gaskit change - straight forward - even for me!) and the parts are made out of good old fashioned steel, not alloys. They are still installed because, with the necessary simple routine of TLC they really see you home. Do not be dissuaded by loose talk!
PWG
MarkJohnson12345
Well-Known Member
As one who runs a 28 y/o Bukh 20, I can thoroughly recommend it.
Reliable, economical, spares readily available, and advice from Buhk in Poole free and helpful.
You are in good hands.
Reliable, economical, spares readily available, and advice from Buhk in Poole free and helpful.
You are in good hands.
Babylon
Well-Known Member
Our DV20 is 27 years old, rebuilt about 10 years ago, starts quickly and runs very well. Aside from the obvious good seamanship of looking after one's engine, I've got a vested interest in keeping this particular engine sweet - I cannot afford to replace it! - but if I did have to then I'd simply go for a new DV24 (same engine, just delivers more power) which would drop in place.
Ours is raw-water cooled, so no heat-exchanger, therefore pretty simple. (Okay, so no hot water... but then she's not that kind of boat.)
Also, although I've yet to try it, it can be hand-cranked if there's a battery problem, which adds reassurance.
Ours is raw-water cooled, so no heat-exchanger, therefore pretty simple. (Okay, so no hot water... but then she's not that kind of boat.)
Also, although I've yet to try it, it can be hand-cranked if there's a battery problem, which adds reassurance.
CaptainHogwash
Active Member
I'll add my vote of support - especially with regard to the chaps at Bukh UK. Very patient with idiots, in my experience!
jerryat
Well-Known Member
Agree, fabulous engines and I've had them on my boats since 1984.
>> Ours is raw-water cooled, so no heat-exchanger, therefore pretty simple. (Okay, so no hot water... but then she's not that kind of boat.) <<
You can have as much hot water as you wish from your Bukh and the installation is extremely simple.
We've had HW for the last 20 years from our Bukh 29 (and now B24) as we've spent a lot of time away full time cruising, and SWMBO would have mutinied without a proper shower facility!
If you do decide to install a system, PM me and I'll run through it with you.
R's
J
>> Ours is raw-water cooled, so no heat-exchanger, therefore pretty simple. (Okay, so no hot water... but then she's not that kind of boat.) <<
You can have as much hot water as you wish from your Bukh and the installation is extremely simple.
We've had HW for the last 20 years from our Bukh 29 (and now B24) as we've spent a lot of time away full time cruising, and SWMBO would have mutinied without a proper shower facility!
If you do decide to install a system, PM me and I'll run through it with you.
R's
J
Otter
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
You can have as much hot water as you wish from your Bukh and the installation is extremely simple.
[/ QUOTE ] absolutely true, except the 10hp for which it's impossible. The Bukh is a fantastic engine, very smooth, partly because of its big flywheel. Two main issues, the first already mentioned about exhaust elbows needing above average replacement (but even I managed that) and also a tendency for the oil breather pipe to block up. It's an easy job to clean it but the bolts need a huge amount of torque to loosen - a job for the yard in my opinion. The symptom is leaking engine oil and then it's a must. But if no symptoms then regular changes of oil and filter will keep it happily at bay.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy another boat with a Bukh in.
You can have as much hot water as you wish from your Bukh and the installation is extremely simple.
[/ QUOTE ] absolutely true, except the 10hp for which it's impossible. The Bukh is a fantastic engine, very smooth, partly because of its big flywheel. Two main issues, the first already mentioned about exhaust elbows needing above average replacement (but even I managed that) and also a tendency for the oil breather pipe to block up. It's an easy job to clean it but the bolts need a huge amount of torque to loosen - a job for the yard in my opinion. The symptom is leaking engine oil and then it's a must. But if no symptoms then regular changes of oil and filter will keep it happily at bay.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy another boat with a Bukh in.
jerryat
Well-Known Member
Hi Simon,
>>Two main issues, the first already mentioned about exhaust elbows needing above average replacement (but even I managed that) ..... <<
May I recommend my 'solution' to you and perhaps others? When you buy a new elbow, thoroughly decgrease it inside with acetone or similar, then apply up to five coats of epoxy paint, allowing each to 'go off' but not really hard, before applying the next coat. I had some Interprotect I had left over from a hull job on a friend's boat, so used that.
The metal will be protected for at least five years using this technique, and simply wiping out (yes I do mean wipe out) once a year will keep it clear. We were full time cruising too, so a lot of use.
Yes it does break down eventually, though an another coat or two of epoxy when you notice it first starting to break down, will again extend its life. The last elbow I treated this way lasted over eight years to give you a guide, though preparation and care in applying the paint to EVERY part of the interior is paramount.
Hope this helps,
Jerry
>>Two main issues, the first already mentioned about exhaust elbows needing above average replacement (but even I managed that) ..... <<
May I recommend my 'solution' to you and perhaps others? When you buy a new elbow, thoroughly decgrease it inside with acetone or similar, then apply up to five coats of epoxy paint, allowing each to 'go off' but not really hard, before applying the next coat. I had some Interprotect I had left over from a hull job on a friend's boat, so used that.
The metal will be protected for at least five years using this technique, and simply wiping out (yes I do mean wipe out) once a year will keep it clear. We were full time cruising too, so a lot of use.
Yes it does break down eventually, though an another coat or two of epoxy when you notice it first starting to break down, will again extend its life. The last elbow I treated this way lasted over eight years to give you a guide, though preparation and care in applying the paint to EVERY part of the interior is paramount.
Hope this helps,
Jerry
albanach
New Member
jerrat,
can you let me have the info on getting hot water from a dv20
regards
albanach
can you let me have the info on getting hot water from a dv20
regards
albanach
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Here's how to fit a calorifier to a Bukh. This was written a few years ago. I now have a Yanmar.
The principle is that water is circulated between the block and the calorifier, not as some installations seem to use, between the block discharge and the exhaust.
Equipment needed is the calorifier, hoses, and a circulation pump. The pump to use is the Johnson C010P5-1, 12 Volt, 16mm ports, part number 10-35159-3 from Aquafax or T. Norris. The description of this pump says it is for fresh water but the first one in my boat ran on seawater for about 15 years with no problems. Its replacement ran for a further 5 years, when I took the engine out.
My system is fitted to the Bukh 20 but it appears that other engine sizes are essentially identical. Bukh 10 is reputed not to generate enough heat to run a calorifier but I suspect that if an orifice plate was inserted into the calorifier circuit it would probably be OK.
Examine the engine’s starboard side. There are two blanked off, screwed fittings in the water system, one on the underside of the manifold at the aft end and the other on the lower aft corner of the block. These are the hot and cold regions, respectively. Standard hose fittings can be screwed into these to replace the blanking plugs. Hot water is taken from the manifold, to the upper coil fitting on the calorifier, out of the lower fitting, to the suction of the pump, from the discharge nozzle and back to the cold fitting on the block. The pump is wired to come on whenever the engine is running. Mine has been fitted since 1995, about 100 engine hours per year.
Filling the system is sometimes difficult, I have found the most successful way is to back-fill against the water flow direction by removing the return hose from the block. I put a transparent hose on the block and lift the other end up, then fill the calorifier coils from the discharge side with a funnel raised up a couple of feet above the engine. Usually this fills everything by the time the transparent hose overflows, although there could be an air lock at the top of the block this does not seem to bother the calorifier. I sometimes spend an hour or so messing with this at the start of the season.
In use, with a 25 litre calorifier, it takes about 15 minutes to get the water good and warm but a trace of heat, for testing purposes, is felt within a minute or so. It’s not very effective at tickover speed but does work if you put it in gear alongside a pontoon. After 30 minutes or so, ours is hot enough that you cannot put your hand into the hot water coming out of the tap. After sailing all day we find that running the engine whilst dropping sails and motoring through the bridge at Hellevoetsluis and back to the berth is enough to heat the water enough for dishwashing and brief toilet session each.
Our calorifier is about 1.5 metres from the engine but I believe that the system would function at much greater distance. The flow given by the pump is considerable but if you experience problems be aware that the thermo-siphon, if connected the wrong way, is enough to stop it.
The principle is that water is circulated between the block and the calorifier, not as some installations seem to use, between the block discharge and the exhaust.
Equipment needed is the calorifier, hoses, and a circulation pump. The pump to use is the Johnson C010P5-1, 12 Volt, 16mm ports, part number 10-35159-3 from Aquafax or T. Norris. The description of this pump says it is for fresh water but the first one in my boat ran on seawater for about 15 years with no problems. Its replacement ran for a further 5 years, when I took the engine out.
My system is fitted to the Bukh 20 but it appears that other engine sizes are essentially identical. Bukh 10 is reputed not to generate enough heat to run a calorifier but I suspect that if an orifice plate was inserted into the calorifier circuit it would probably be OK.
Examine the engine’s starboard side. There are two blanked off, screwed fittings in the water system, one on the underside of the manifold at the aft end and the other on the lower aft corner of the block. These are the hot and cold regions, respectively. Standard hose fittings can be screwed into these to replace the blanking plugs. Hot water is taken from the manifold, to the upper coil fitting on the calorifier, out of the lower fitting, to the suction of the pump, from the discharge nozzle and back to the cold fitting on the block. The pump is wired to come on whenever the engine is running. Mine has been fitted since 1995, about 100 engine hours per year.
Filling the system is sometimes difficult, I have found the most successful way is to back-fill against the water flow direction by removing the return hose from the block. I put a transparent hose on the block and lift the other end up, then fill the calorifier coils from the discharge side with a funnel raised up a couple of feet above the engine. Usually this fills everything by the time the transparent hose overflows, although there could be an air lock at the top of the block this does not seem to bother the calorifier. I sometimes spend an hour or so messing with this at the start of the season.
In use, with a 25 litre calorifier, it takes about 15 minutes to get the water good and warm but a trace of heat, for testing purposes, is felt within a minute or so. It’s not very effective at tickover speed but does work if you put it in gear alongside a pontoon. After 30 minutes or so, ours is hot enough that you cannot put your hand into the hot water coming out of the tap. After sailing all day we find that running the engine whilst dropping sails and motoring through the bridge at Hellevoetsluis and back to the berth is enough to heat the water enough for dishwashing and brief toilet session each.
Our calorifier is about 1.5 metres from the engine but I believe that the system would function at much greater distance. The flow given by the pump is considerable but if you experience problems be aware that the thermo-siphon, if connected the wrong way, is enough to stop it.
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