Bukh 20; no fuel from pump

[cimo]

looks like you're focused on the injection pump.

if any help at all -
reassemble all and apply a short sharp blow (not too many) on the case with the back of your mole grips (while working the solenoid actuator). It may just save you further disassembly.

Seen it work on tractor pumps - I am thinking your regulating rod may be stuck. if it's the control sleeve thats sticking - you may have to dismantle - but I'd try to avoid that personally.

my workshop manual states that injection timing will require adjustment after dismounting the pump.

PS - bilgediver has already mentioned the "rack" - this is what I'm referring too also when I say "regulating rod" (ref. workshop manual). the rack works the control sleeve.

 

[HammerFix]

OK I know this is an old thread but I was reading it with some interest after recently having a high pressure pump issue with a DV10LSME.

Our engine was brand new having been in storage for a long time, it had never been started. After putting in our yacht we couldn't get it started.
We eventually traced the problem to the high pressure pump not delivering any fuel. However the lift pump was working fine and delivering plenty of fuel to the high pressure pump.
The issue was that the pump piston was not moving in the bore. The piston is pushed by a cam inside the crankcase and relies on a spring to pull it back to its starting position. Our piston had seized at the top of the bore and hence was not delivering fuel. The fix was to hit it with a hammer a suggestion to which I am indebted to my brother. The procedure was as follows:
1. Turn off the fuel
2. Unbolt the fuel filter bracket and hang it out of the way as much as you can to make room to work.
3. Loosen the high pressure pipe at the injector and undo the pipe completely at the pump nozzle.
4. Undo the pump nozzle and draw it out carefully collecting all the bits and noting the order of assembly.
5. Look inside the pump to make sure you removed all the nozzle components.
6. With the decompression lever activated (tied off) rotate the flywheel and observe the piston from where the nozzle was just removed.
7. The piston should be moving slowly up and down the bore as the engine is rotated (ours wasn't).
8. If not moving then it is likely jammed and some persuasion with a hammer can help thus:
9. Obtain a piece of aluminium rod approx 7mm diameter and 100mm long - round off one end.
10. Obtain a plastic 'click' fitting for a garden hose - the threaded type that fits into a sprinkler.
11. Insert the hose fitting 'O' ring end first into the nozzle mount on the pump to act as a guide for the aluminium rod.
12. Insert the aluminium rod (round end first) into the guide.
13. Finally, Hit it with a Hammer!... well start by just tapping it - rotate the flywheel if you aren't getting anywhere as you maybe still on the cam lobe.
14. Ours took a reasonably solid hit to free it - but it had be dormant a long time...start off lightly.
15. Check the piston is now 'pumping as you rotate the flywheel.
16. Reassemble nozzle and bleed if required and the test fuel is being pumped by cranking on the starter with the decompression lever actuated - a healthy spurt of fuel should be ejected from the nozzle.
17. Reconnect the high pressure pipe to the pump and crank again to make until fuel is leaking at the injector end. Then tighten the pipe at the injector end.

Notes:
Be extremely clean - there's no filtering between these components and the injector.
Don't overtighten the high pressure fittings as they have tapered seats.
We had to repeat the procedure several times as the piston would re-seize every time I reassembled - but be persistent it worked in the end and the engine fired straight away.