Budget diesel polishing

[wandeerer]

I've managed to save a wad by setting up an emergency diesel polishing system, after finding diesel bug in a belly tank again. I do carry a 12vdc portable diesel transfer pump for cruising. It pumps 40 litres a minute. Being a very practical yachtsman, my mind is always looking for easier solutions to the commercial options and I happened to have two 10" plastic water filter housings that were going to used for the freshwater footpump to basin project. Mmm - I filled them with diesel and left them until the next boat visit a week later.. Eureka! Not at all affected by diesel.Popped off to the local bearing supplier and picked up two sets of nitrile o rings and a few brass fittings and then to the local hardware for a few 10 and 5 micron blown pp water filters and a 3 way valve. Happy to say that it polished almost 80 litres and used 4 filters. No damage to the clear plastic housings . This piece of kit is now plumbed in via two bypass valve ready for the next Atlantic crossing. PS - NOT suitable for gasoline/ petrol.

 

[Refueler]

10 and 5 micon filters ? Suitable for filtering the crud and dead bug accumulation ..... but

To actually be effective and filter out 'bug' itself - you need BETTER than 2 micron .... even then you will not succeed in 100% removal.

Fuel polishing does not cure / solve the problem ... all it does is remove the crap left behind by the infestation.

 

[Refueler]

You will still need to kill the bug ..... and if you use a non-enzyme additive - then you will need to filter out the result.

 

[ducked]

10 and 5 micon filters ? Suitable for filtering the crud and dead bug accumulation ..... but

To actually be effective and filter out 'bug' itself - you need BETTER than 2 micron .... even then you will not succeed in 100% removal.

Fuel polishing does not cure / solve the problem ... all it does is remove the crap left behind by the infestation.

But isn't it that crap that stops your engine?

Wont the bug itself just burn, baby, burn after its been through your injector?

 

[Refueler]

But isn't it that crap that stops your engine?

Wont the bug itself just burn, baby, burn after its been through your injector?

Correct - but the bugs die .. they deposit crap ....

What are you going to do ? Run a 2micron continuously to stop your engine getting 'gunged up' ?? Stopping to change filters every so ofrten ??

 

[ducked]

Correct - but the bugs die .. they deposit crap ....

What are you going to do ? Run a 2micron continuously to stop your engine getting 'gunged up' ?? Stopping to change filters every so ofrten ??

I was assuming (and am still so inclined, though I could be wrong) that, provided the accumulated dead bug crap was filtered out, which the filters described apparently do, the 2 micron bacteria that get past them, whether alive or dead, would burn harmlessly in the engine.

 

[noelex]

Being a very practical yachtsman, my mind is always looking for easier solutions to the commercial options and I happened to have two 10" plastic water filter housings that were going to used for the freshwater footpump to basin project.

The cheap Racor filter knock-off housings are an alternative choice. The advantage is that these are designed to remove water, one of the key advantages of regularly polishing fuel.

 

[Refueler]

I was assuming (and am still so inclined, though I could be wrong) that, provided the accumulated dead bug crap was filtered out, which the filters described apparently do, the 2 micron bacteria that get past them, whether alive or dead, would burn harmlessly in the engine.

And the gunge that accumulates between polishing ?

If you open up a fuel filter that has bug ... you see the typical gungey mess accumulating on the filter - that eventually leads to blocked filters ...

Instead of fuel polishing ... just get a decent Enzyme based Additive and add to that each fill-up ... that will break up the crud .. break up moisture in the fuel ... all will pass through and be burnt .....

 

[noelex]

We polish the fuel most days. An additive to kill the diesel bug is essential, but continually removing the carcass and deposits is helpful. It is also of benefit to remove any water from the tank to prevent conditions where the diesel bug can proliferate.

It has worked for us. Systems to achieve this are not expensive.

 

[superheat6k]

Keeping the fuel dry prevents the bugs from growing. They live in the water at the water fuel interface, feeding on the fuel. So if you keep the fuel dry there is nowhere for the bugs to live. I fitted a Chinese Racor 500 copy to my prior portable polishing unit and then installed a polishing system on the current boat again with the Racor copy. Result the fuel is dry and bug free, indeed in the two years since I fitted the system I am still on the same Racor element, and yet to find any water at all in the bowl. I run the system at least every 2 months for an hour or two.

Also there are only two principal places water in a tank can likely emanate from ...

1 With the fuel you purchase - so polish religiously after every refuel.

2 The deck filler cap - liberally grease the threads with a waterproof grease. Ok your fingers get a bit mucky when refuelling - hey ho.

Keep the fuel dry - keeps the bug away, and not an additive anywhere near.

 

[tmcworld]

10 and 5 micon filters ? Suitable for filtering the crud and dead bug accumulation ..... but

To actually be effective and filter out 'bug' itself - you need BETTER than 2 micron .... even then you will not succeed in 100% removal.

Fuel polishing does not cure / solve the problem ... all it does is remove the crap left behind by the infestation.

Thankfully worked 100% for me. Not a hiccup from my trusty iron mainsail since and I'm almost through all the diesel I saved. I did not mention that I cleaned the slops in the tank too. Clear plastic housings will show any water and the pickup is from the top of the cartridge. I will pack in a few 2 micron filters - thanks for that.

 

[ducked]

Some expat motorcyclists in Taiwan (where humidity is high) recommend a dose of ethanol/methanol (though I believe the latter is more likely to attack carb castings) in the fuel tank to remove water by acting as a "bridging solvent", otherwise condensed water tends to encourage corrosion in the lower rolled edge seams of the tank.

Never tried it, but I had one Yamaha RZR tank fail in this way, and found water in my car tank (which, unusually, had a drain plug) when drained, so perhaps I should have.

This of course is with petrol, though in principle I suppose it should work with diesel as well, as long as a low percentage of alcohol in the fuel isnt damaging in the rather more violent diesel environment.

 

[SaltIre]

Thankfully worked 100% for me. Not a hiccup from my trusty iron mainsail since and I'm almost through all the diesel I saved. I did not mention that I cleaned the slops in the tank too. Clear plastic housings will show any water and the pickup is from the top of the cartridge. I will pack in a few 2 micron filters - thanks for that.

This is your first post in the forums, welcome btw, so obviously you didn't mention that you cleaned the slops.
Unless, of course, you are the OP with duplicate accounts?

 

[The Q]

My home built polisher, pumps from the bottom of the tank, ( long solid copper tube to reach bottom) into a demijohn near the bottom, more copper tube, the outlet being a copper tube near the top, ( bung well fixed in to take pressure) then through a filter before returning to the tank.

That allows water and crud to settle out, saves changing filters so often.
Fuel stabilizer/ bug killer is added each refuel.

 

[pcatterall]

Correct - but the bugs die .. they deposit crap ....

What are you going to do ? Run a 2micron continuously to stop your engine getting 'gunged up' ?? Stopping to change filters every so ofrten ??

My main tank developed the bug and was treated. The fuel then went BLACK and no amount of polishing would get rid of it after polishing down to 2mm it did look BRIGHT ( but black!) .
The 'well known' bug manufacturers said 'don't worry these super fine particles will pass through your old Perkins no problem and cause no damage' ! It has been used but it is worrying!
Should we ditch the remaining 30 gallons?

 

[Refueler]

Keeping the fuel dry prevents the bugs from growing. They live in the water at the water fuel interface, feeding on the fuel. So if you keep the fuel dry there is nowhere for the bugs to live. I fitted a Chinese Racor 500 copy to my prior portable polishing unit and then installed a polishing system on the current boat again with the Racor copy. Result the fuel is dry and bug free, indeed in the two years since I fitted the system I am still on the same Racor element, and yet to find any water at all in the bowl. I run the system at least every 2 months for an hour or two.

Also there are only two principal places water in a tank can likely emanate from ...

1 With the fuel you purchase - so polish religiously after every refuel.

2 The deck filler cap - liberally grease the threads with a waterproof grease. Ok your fingers get a bit mucky when refuelling - hey ho.

Keep the fuel dry - keeps the bug away, and not an additive anywhere near.

Moitsure content of fuel is always a factor.

You are talking about Free water ...

 

[tmcworld]

This is your first post in the forums, welcome btw, so obviously you didn't mention that you cleaned the slops.
Unless, of course, you are the OP with duplicate accounts?

Not sure quite what you mean. I just forgot to mention that i cleaned up the little bit of diesel the pump hose could not pick up. Wiped it up to make sure the tank was as clean as possible.

 

[tmcworld]

Some expat motorcyclists in Taiwan (where humidity is high) recommend a dose of ethanol/methanol (though I believe the latter is more likely to attack carb castings) in the fuel tank to remove water by acting as a "bridging solvent", otherwise condensed water tends to encourage corrosion in the lower rolled edge seams of the tank.

Never tried it, but I had one Yamaha RZR tank fail in this way, and found water in my car tank (which, unusually, had a drain plug) when drained, so perhaps I should have.

This of course is with petrol, though in principle I suppose it should work with diesel as well, as long as a low percentage of alcohol in the fuel isnt damaging in the rather more violent diesel environment.

I'm also a bike rider and back in the 70's my father had a Honda 500 /4. He was a pilot and occasionally gave it a cupful of avgas to a full tank. It always ran perfectly, but being a Honda, who knows. I ride a 1200 GS, which is fuel injected and I only use premium petrol.

 

[Refueler]

I'm also a bike rider and back in the 70's my father had a Honda 500 /4. He was a pilot and occasionally gave it a cupful of avgas to a full tank. It always ran perfectly, but being a Honda, who knows. I ride a 1200 GS, which is fuel injected and I only use premium petrol.

The Avgas .... would only spike the Octane levels - nothing else..... except if used excessively could have blown holes in pistons .. damaged valves.

Mu Mother and father would tell me stories of 'pinching' fuel from the RAF base for the car .... like many RAF people did ... but in those days the engines were less refined / wider tolerance - so the grossly over spec'd Octane levels didn't destroy the pistons / valves etc...

When I raced Go-Karts .... it was not unusual to 'spike' the 2stroke mix with Methanol ... but you had to be careful not to overdo it - as the aroma would give it away !! Whether it helped is debatable - most likely not ... as later with methanol powered models - it was common to spike the glow fuel with a touch of petrol to improve throttle response.

 

[ducked]

Cant think of any reason high octane fuel would cause damage　ｉｎ　ａ　ｐｅｔｒｏｌ　ｅｎｇｉｎｅ, though it'd increase deposits and plug fouling, especially if leaded, as ＲＡＦfuel that fell off the back of a Lancaster probably would be. Long long ago I had a piston ring bust on a BL＂Ｂ＂ｓｅｒｉｅｓ　１８００　ｅｎｇｉｎｅ　ａｎｄ　ｔｈｅ　ｄｉｓｈｅｄ　ｐｉｓｔｏｎ　ｈｅａｄｓ　ｗｅｒｅ　ｃｏｍｐｌｅｔｅｌｙ　ｆｕｌｌ　ａｎｄ　ｌｅｖｅｌ　ｗｉｔｈ　ｓｅｍｉ－ｍｅｔａｌｌｉｃ　ｌｏｏｋｉｎｇ　ｄｅｐｏｓｉｔｓ　ｏｎ　ｔｈｒｅｅ　ｏｆ　ｔｈｅ　ｃｙｌｉｎｄｅｒｓ，　ｂｕｔ　ｈａｄ　ｂｅｅｎ　ｓｈｏｔ　ｂｌａｓｔｅｄ　ｏｆｆ　ｔｈｅ　ｆｏｒｔｈ　ｐｉｓｔｏｎ　ｂｙ　ｂｉｔｓ　ｏｆ　ｒｉｎｇ　ｂｅｆｏｒｅ　ｔｈｅｙ　ｅｘｉｔｅｄ　ｖｉａ　ｔｈｅ　ｅｘｈａｕｓｔ　ｖａｌｖｅ．Ｉ　ｄｏｕｂｔ　ａ　ｃｌｅａｎ　ｐｉｓｔｏｎ　ｗｏｕｌｄ　ｈａｖｅ　ｓｕｒｖｉｖｅｄ

Ｔｒｕｋｋｉｅｓ　ｕｓｅｄ　ｔｏ　ｓｐｉｋｅ　ｄｉｅｓｅｌ　ｗｉｔｈ　ｐｅｔｒｏｌ　ｉｎ　ｈａｒｄ　ｗｉｎｔｅｒｓ，　ｓｏ　Ｉ’ｄ　ｔｈｉｎｋ　ａｎ　ａｄｍｉｘｔｕｒｅ　ｏｆ　ｍｏｒｅ　ｖｏｌａｔｉｌｅ　ｃｏｍｐｏｎｅｎｔｓ　ｍｉｇｈｔ　ｂｅ　ｓｕｒｖｉｖａｂｌｅ，　ａｔ　ｌｅａｓｔ　ｉｎ　ｔｈｅ　ｓｈｏｒｔ　ｔｅｒｍ，　ａｓ　ｌｏｎｇ　ａｓ　ｉｔ　ａｌｓｏ　ｓｕｒｖｉｖｅｄ　ｔｈｅｍ　ｌｉｇｈｔｉｎｇ　ａ　ｆｉｒｅ　ｕｎｄｅｒ　ｔｈｅ　ｔａｎｋ，　ｗｈｉｃｈ　ｗａｓ　ａｌｓｏ　ｄｏｎｅ．