Bubble wrap for insulation?

I guess it depends what you are insulating. It's probably not very durable and there may be problems attaching it to anything without melting it with glue. There is a metallised plastic version designed for architectural insulation - the downside being you'd have to buy it rather than collecting leftovers.

Rob.
 
I had loads of bubblewrap arrive with some big delivery (can't remember what now) a few years ago. Rather than throw it away, I took it up into the loft and laid it out on top of the existing six inches or so of rockwool. I think it made a small but noticeable difference.

Pete
 
I guess it depends what you are insulating. It's probably not very durable and there may be problems attaching it to anything without melting it with glue. There is a metallised plastic version designed for architectural insulation - the downside being you'd have to buy it rather than collecting leftovers.

Rob.

I was thinking of packing it behind panels - no glue required.
 
Dont. It holds condensation because it is not uniformly thick. Better to use closed cell double foil sided foam from any of the diy sheds. A 8 x 4 sheet at around £25 will probably do all yopu need, push fit, no glue, cuts ( and trims haha) easily with a craft knife.
 
Dont. It holds condensation because it is not uniformly thick. Better to use closed cell double foil sided foam from any of the diy sheds. A 8 x 4 sheet at around £25 will probably do all yopu need, push fit, no glue, cuts ( and trims haha) easily with a craft knife.

What is the minimum thickness? I understood 25 mm and that is too thick for some areas.
 
Cheap 'Karrimatt' as previously suggested. Easy to cut to shape, very light , very warm and simple to glue on with a hot glue gun.
 
I used bubble wrap across the outside of the cab windows & screen on the motorhome last winter. It was excellent, even with all the snow & ice there was no condensation inside the cab & still reasonable light in daytime for maintenance tasks.
 
I used bubble wrap across the outside of the cab windows & screen on the motorhome last winter. It was excellent, even with all the snow & ice there was no condensation inside the cab & still reasonable light in daytime for maintenance tasks.

Fine but don't use it in voids. Insulating voids is totally reliant on removing the air "bridge" which allows the interstitial condensation. The only way to mitigate this is to fill the void completely with a preferably water resistant material. It's fairly easy in buildings but a challenge on boats. Closed cell foam (camping mats) are good but you really need to adhere them to the fibreglass to avoid the dreaded voids. I have found that any thickness helps but the thicker the better. Hawke House do some self adhesive but it's not brilliant. I've had good results with two layers of 9mm camping mat stuck on with vinyl flooring adhesive. You can even get a foil finish for the final layer (reflects in).
 
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Following all the advice received, I bought foam from our local supplier - Cotswold Foam in Gloucester.

A piece 1270X 1220 X 25 cost me £12.

Although this was for a berth headboard, it compares well with camping mats.

Nice people.
 
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