Brucey anchor bonus for me due to failed anchor swivel

I have found that the most important factor in bringing an anchor up right way around, is the direction the anchor naturally aligns when moving through the water. For example, the Mantus will always line up with the water flow; if you are moving backwards it will come up right way, if you are moving forward it will come up backwards every time. Every anchor has a natural angle to the flow, to a greater or lesser degree. If you have the habit of motoring forward as you lift the anchor, you may find you are constantly fighting this very natural characteristic. For me, the solution is to drift slowly backwards after the anchor is free. It is always a clear area (I was swinging there). No need for an anchor turner, since the anchor comes up right way around every time. If I motor forward, it will come up wrong way every time. I laugh, watching people fight this.

As a single hander I came to this very early. It was the easiest way to raise the anchor. When I have crew at the helm, I have to tell them to let the boat drift back until the anchor is on the roller.
 
thinwater said:
I have found that the most important factor in bringing an anchor up right way around, is the direction the anchor naturally aligns when moving through the water. For example, the Mantus will always line up with the water flow; if you are moving backwards it will come up right way, if you are moving forward it will come up backwards every time. Every anchor has a natural angle to the flow, to a greater or lesser degree. If you have the habit of motoring forward as you lift the anchor, you may find you are constantly fighting this very natural characteristic. For me, the solution is to drift slowly backwards after the anchor is free. It is always a clear area (I was swinging there). No need for an anchor turner, since the anchor comes up right way around every time. If I motor forward, it will come up wrong way every time. I laugh, watching people fight this.

As a single hander I came to this very early. It was the easiest way to raise the anchor. When I have crew at the helm, I have to tell them to let the boat drift back until the anchor is on the roller.
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Each to their own. I find that my bent link orientates the anchor correctly, no matter what the boat is doing. I find that if there is any wind, the boat doesn't drift back docilely head to wind, but turns broadside on, which is not always helpful. I realize that catamarans may behave differently.
 
NormanS said:
Each to their own. I find that my bent link orientates the anchor correctly, no matter what the boat is doing. I find that if there is any wind, the boat doesn't drift back docilely head to wind, but turns broadside on, which is not always helpful. I realize that catamarans may behave differently.
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I agree, the bent link is a fine solution. I've used them.

Just pointing out an often overlooked part of the dynamic. Definatly, a cat can easily be held head to wind with a little play of the throttle. Nothing to it. But normally I have the anchor up before it drifts anywhere; it only takes seconds to bring in a half dozen meters of chain. All I need to do is not be moving forward.
 
LadyInBed said:
Be it so, I still prefer to have as few joins in my chain as I can get away with.
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And adding to NormanS query

The last chain failure I recall reading in YBW was a French chain that failed as a result of a poor weld. The owner, a member here, was on the beach and miraculously saved his yacht and went and found the remains of his chain on the seabed - with the failed link. The chain company is now owned by one of Europe's bigger, lifting, chain makers.

Jonathan
 
Should I be worried with my Kong Swivel, with the recommended 3 chain links connecting to the Knox anchor. I believe the SWL is 2000Kg, its probably about 8 years old now, and spends about 30 nights on the seabed on the West of Scotland each year. Be good to know if can be assessed or tested in any way.
 
yotter said:
Should I be worried with my Kong Swivel, with the recommended 3 chain links connecting to the Knox anchor. I believe the SWL is 2000Kg, its probably about 8 years old now, and spends about 30 nights on the seabed on the West of Scotland each year. Be good to know if can be assessed or tested in any way.
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I'm sure it'll be fine, but I remain to be convinced of its purpose.
 
yotter said:
Should I be worried with my Kong Swivel, with the recommended 3 chain links connecting to the Knox anchor. I believe the SWL is 2000Kg, its probably about 8 years old now, and spends about 30 nights on the seabed on the West of Scotland each year. Be good to know if can be assessed or tested in any way.
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You can only evaluate its integrity by looking at it in detail. Testing will result in its destruction,

Re-consider why you use it. It does not remove any twists in the chain, the friction is simply too much. Most of the twists developed through a change in tide or wind fall out with torque. If your anchor is hydro dynamic. turns to face the flow of water as your yacht moves forward or backward - then evaluate whether you should retreive with your yacht moving forward or backward - and stick to it. If your chain is twisted between gypsy and anchor - then untwist it.

If your reason to use a swivel is because you think you need it, or your neighbour has one - take it off - you wasted your money.

The final half twist. of your chain caused by the change of tide or wind may not fall out and if that is the reason to use a swivel needing you to push the anchor with a broom handle, then get a longer broom handle, make yourself a Boomerang - or buy one. If your Boomerang is made from a solid piece of High Tensile steel, or Duplex stainless - and you follow the dimensions - it and the shackles will be factorially stronger than the chain. Some windlass are too close to the bow roller to allow use of the designed Boomerang. I made a little short Boomerang - works well - the original length allows the anchor to be self righted and the movement of the anchor resulting from turning it right way up is more gentle. A Boomerang is easy to make, angle grinder, thin slitting blades, a decent bench drill (and drill bits) and a file. The biggest problem is finding the steel and if it is not duplex - having it galvanised.
IMG_4554.jpeg


I vaguely recall Geoff at Knox Anchor made one - have a word with him. He may be able to help with sources for the steel.

How Well Do Swivels Reduce Twist? - Practical Sailor

Anchor Swivels: Caution Required - Practical Sailor

If you worry about the integrity of your swivel then part of its purpose is not working - get rid of it.

Jonathan
 
yotter said:
Should I be worried with my Kong Swivel, with the recommended 3 chain links connecting to the Knox anchor. I believe the SWL is 2000Kg, its probably about 8 years old now, and spends about 30 nights on the seabed on the West of Scotland each year. Be good to know if can be assessed or tested in any way.
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Opinions vary, as can be seen from the other posts. We find our swivel useful and continue to use it. We have gone a season without one but prefer to have it.

The Kong is a clever design that is not highly stressed. Using the three chain links (which was my original suggestion in 2008) eliminates the side loading on the swivel jaws that is the main input to its SWL. The swivel is therefore far stronger than its published limits suggest. Visual inspection is all that is needed, plus renewing the thread lock annually.
 
vyv_cox said:
Opinions vary, as can be seen from the other posts. We find our swivel useful and continue to use it. We have gone a season without one but prefer to have it.

The Kong is a clever design that is not highly stressed. Using the three chain links (which was my original suggestion in 2008) eliminates the side loading on the swivel jaws that is the main input to its SWL. The swivel is therefore far stronger than its published limits suggest. Visual inspection is all that is needed, plus renewing the thread lock annually.
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Vyv,
Many thanks for that, I have the 3 chain links installed. I will carry out a visual inspection and renew the thread lock (did not realise this should be done annually:-)).
Best regards
 
yotter said:
Vyv,
Many thanks for that, I have the 3 chain links installed. I will carry out a visual inspection and renew the thread lock (did not realise this should be done annually:-)).
Best regards
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I am not saying that the thread lock deteriorates with time, almost certainly not the case. But it is a useful check to make just in case
 
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