seagypsywoman
Well-Known Member
Are 30 year old bronze seacocks worth keeping? They haven't been greased or moved for two years while the boat was out of the water and now are difficult to open and close. Can they be repaired?
Bronze seacocks
- Thread starter seagypsywoman
- Start date
sailor211
Well-Known Member
What make and type. Blakes cone type yes just service them
Iliade
Well-Known Member
30 year old ones
+1
But also any sort of seacock that is 30 years old and still doesn't crumble when tapped with a hammer must be made out of 'good stuff' so definitely deserves servicing and retaining.
+1
But also any sort of seacock that is 30 years old and still doesn't crumble when tapped with a hammer must be made out of 'good stuff' so definitely deserves servicing and retaining.
Phoenix of Hamble
Well-Known Member
Mine are 35 years old.... hadn't been touched for several years, and were seized in the open position....
While out of the water a couple of weeks back, I 'lapped' them with some lapping compound, and you can now operate them with one finger, and they work beautifully.... and truthfully, I trust them much more than a modern ball balve.
If you google 'lapping bronze seacocks' it'll show you how to do it.
(FWIW, mine are Spartan seacocks, but the same applies to Blakes etc)
While out of the water a couple of weeks back, I 'lapped' them with some lapping compound, and you can now operate them with one finger, and they work beautifully.... and truthfully, I trust them much more than a modern ball balve.
If you google 'lapping bronze seacocks' it'll show you how to do it.
(FWIW, mine are Spartan seacocks, but the same applies to Blakes etc)
ianat182
Well-Known Member
If the Blakes type they will be a cone secured by a pressure ring and two bolts that pass through this plate into a threaded lug on the seacock;beneath each bolt will be a bronze locking nut. Undo the locking nuts, remove the bolts and the ring will be freed; the cone should now be removed and inspected for pitting,if minor pitting this can be removed by smearing some valve grinding paste on the male cone, replacing into the recess and rotating until both surfaces are clean. Remove all traces of grinding paste and apply some waterproof grease to the surfaces of the cone and refit. There is an arrow to indicate 'ON' and 'OFF' on the boss of the lever. Tighten down on each bolt sufficient to open and close but not bar tight,then lock this position using the locknuts for each bolt. make these your first check when afloat for any leakage and adjust with bolts and locknuts as necessary.
The outlet will not usually have an external strainer fitted so can be done whilst afloat using softwood bungs from the outside of the hull(remember to take these out!), the inlet however does have a strainer and can only be done ashore at scrub off. Job only takes about 30 mins for each to be serviced.
Edit: If ashore the cones may be stuck even after removal of the bolts etc,use a 3/4" length of dowel from the outside and gently tap out, when doing this leave the two bolts in the seacock boss , but not tensioned so prevent damaging any part of the cone.
Maybe you already know this procedure but perhaps other enquirers do not, so may be useful.
ianat182
The outlet will not usually have an external strainer fitted so can be done whilst afloat using softwood bungs from the outside of the hull(remember to take these out!), the inlet however does have a strainer and can only be done ashore at scrub off. Job only takes about 30 mins for each to be serviced.
Edit: If ashore the cones may be stuck even after removal of the bolts etc,use a 3/4" length of dowel from the outside and gently tap out, when doing this leave the two bolts in the seacock boss , but not tensioned so prevent damaging any part of the cone.
Maybe you already know this procedure but perhaps other enquirers do not, so may be useful.
ianat182
Last edited:
rivonia
Well-Known Member
Hi we have just yesterday replaced our BRASS ball cocks which were 12 yrs old. One was jammed open and dripping the other also too difficult to close.
Now we have stainless steel ballcocks, hmm so smooth and easy to use. 316 s/s.
New skin fittings Brass.
Peter
Now we have stainless steel ballcocks, hmm so smooth and easy to use. 316 s/s.
New skin fittings Brass.
Peter
Halo
Well-Known Member
New skin fittings Brass.
Wow - I would always go for bronze or gun metal skin fittings - no good having a good valve screwed to a crunchie bar
Wow - I would always go for bronze or gun metal skin fittings - no good having a good valve screwed to a crunchie bar
macd
Well-Known Member
...but Blakes seacocks are brass, albeit DZR brass. That doesn't stop them lasting. Mine are 36 years old. Wish I were...
VicS
Well-Known Member
DZR brass is the next best choice after bronze.
Brass which is not DZR is a very bad choice. Expect a life of no more than about 5 years
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I think I am correct in saying that 36 years ago Blakes seacocks were made from bronze. The DZR specification was introduced around 30 years ago and Blakes began to use it some time after that. Unless somebody knows better?
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Brass skin fittings with 316 ball valves is a seriously bad idea. You will need to monitor the skin fittings very closely, especially at the threads close to the valve. The metal is very thin here and the galvanic effect will drive the dezincification quite rapidly.