Brand or manufacturer of Cranchi circuit breaker

[FloridaCranchi34]

This weekend my 25 year old windlass circuit breaker gave it's last full measure of devotion while trying to haul up my anchor.

After looking at the breaker from the back side of the panel, it looks unlike any marine breaker I can source here in the States.

As I'd rather not rewire the entire panel for want of one breaker, does anyone know the type or manufacturer of the circuit breakers in a Cranchi Z34?

 

[penfold]

With decent pictures of the breaker from the front, side and rear against a ruler, maybe. Without that probably not. That said at 25 years it may not be possible to buy the same type, even a similar one may be tricky.

 

[jfm]

Manufacturer name and part number will be on the breaker.
Post a picture.
If it is DIN rail mounted (you don't say...) there will be plenty of straight-swap replacements even from other manufacturers.

 

[PowerYachtBlog]

If she is 25 years old, the windlass should be a Lofrans or to the most a Quick. More the first then the second.
The breaker in these used to be a LeGrande type if I remember well.

 

[MapisM]

Does this possibly look familiar?

 

[FloridaCranchi34]

Here are some pictures for consideration. It's a Lofrans windlass but the breaker doesn't look like the one in the link you provided.

It's roughly 3.5" long and 2" tall, so 89mm long and 51mm tall. The writing on the breaker on the end (the main 12v breaker) says IEC 947 and then voltage rating, etc, with the CE logo.

I normally don't keep the windlass circuit energized unless I'm setting sea and anchor detail so I like the flip breaker so I can secure power to the circuit for isolation.

 

[FloridaCranchi34]

More photos, wiring diagram shows the circuit to be 63 Amps. I also believe it to be the DIN or Legrand type that was mentioned due to the center rail?

Miniature circuit breaker LS ELECTRIC BK63H 1P B63A 6kA 277VAC UL1077 - 0626035563

This little guy is 63A...seems like this might be the right direction. I won't be able to disassemble the panel for about a week, what else should I check for in there? Are the breakers held in place by being clamped to the panel by the rail?

 

[penfold]

Standard DIN rail breaker, nothing special about that at all and replacement will be easy to source, although the toggle may be slightly different in shape or colour even if from the same maker. The black/dark grey part is a sprung latch that holds it onto the metal rail.

 

[James jameson]

Looks possible like an old Wylex MCB. The black tag on one end slides back to release the breaker from the din rail. It’s a staringht domestic type MCB

 

[FloridaCranchi34]

Thanks gents, mystery solved I think!

 

[FloridaCranchi34]

So they are ABB breakers, I think it's an italian brand. The first one I ordered mounted and worked, however the switch placement on the front was not in the same spot and therefore would not protrude through the panel face properly. I found an ABB on ebay and it's on it's way. Also, Eaton seems to make an exact copy with the switch lever in the correct spot. Will report back for the Cranchi owners out there.

 

[Chris H]

Anything like these

 

[FloridaCranchi34]

Yep, the ABB I removed is an S251 C63, so 63 Amp with a C profile. S251 seems no longer available so I ordered a S201 C63, same body as the one in your picture. The Eaton is a FAZ-C63-1-NA-SP, we'll see if the switch fits the opening but it looks just like the ABB switch placement in the schematic that Eaton offers.

 

[jfm]

So they are ABB breakers, I think it's an italian brand. The first one I ordered mounted and worked, however the switch placement on the front was not in the same spot and therefore would not protrude through the panel face properly. I found an ABB on ebay and it's on it's way. Also, Eaton seems to make an exact copy with the switch lever in the correct spot. Will report back for the Cranchi owners out there.

Swiss/Swedish fwiw, but no matter. Used to be called Asea Brown Boveri.
Hope it all gets resolved.

 

[Chris H]

Yep, the ABB I removed is an S251 C63, so 63 Amp with a C profile. S251 seems no longer available so I ordered a S201 C63, same body as the one in your picture. The Eaton is a FAZ-C63-1-NA-SP, we'll see if the switch fits the opening but it looks just like the ABB switch placement in the schematic that Eaton offers.

The largest I’ve got is 32 amp, e bay is the place for used MCB’s.

 

[alt]

Good detective work - please do report back.

FWIW, on my Smeraldo 37 there's 2 x breakers (joined) for the Windlass.

 

[jon and michie]

Yep, the ABB I removed is an S251 C63, so 63 Amp with a C profile. S251 seems no longer available so I ordered a S201 C63, same body as the one in your picture. The Eaton is a FAZ-C63-1-NA-SP, we'll see if the switch fits the opening but it looks just like the ABB switch placement in the schematic that Eaton offers.

Just as a Reference as I was once told by a sparky - as you say C profile - these breakers come in 3 types A,B and C these mean that the trip out time is slightly delayed / more sensitive A being the quickest and C being the longest.
I am sure someone will come along a give a more detailed explanation.

 

[Chris H]

Just as a Reference as I was once told by a sparky - as you say C profile - these breakers come in 3 types A,B and C these mean that the trip out time is slightly delayed / more sensitive A being the quickest and C being the longest.
I am sure someone will come along a give a more detailed explanation.

MCB’s come in type B C and D, they take more surge current, the later the letter.

 

[jon and michie]

I am sure someone will come along a give a more detailed explanation.

MCB’s come in type B C and D, they take more surge current, the later the letter.

There we go

 

[FloridaCranchi34]

So the Eaton will sort of fit the opening in the panel after some trimming on the breaker with a Dremel. Best bet is to source the ABB breaker as it's a direct drop in.