Braid on Braid for furler

[LadyInBed]

Opinions please on which Braid on Braid would be best for the genoa furler.
So many choices, so little knowledge of rope!

 

[Bobc]

Anything will do. It's not under constant load, so creep and stretch don't really matter.

 

[LONG_KEELER]

Many furling gear suppliers spec Dyneema .

Seems to work ok.

 

[GHA]

I use 5mm dry dyneema spliced into some larger double braid polyester at the cockpit end as it's easier to handle. Worked great so far, d12 dyneema is very chafe (and uv) resistant already but pretty much non stretch helps as well with no movement in the furling line in the gusts. Lots room on the drum.

 

[Elemental]

Anything will do. It's not under constant load, so creep and stretch don't really matter.

when reefed the line is under a fair load....

 

[Refueler]

I use bog standard braid on braid sized so that full genny out is just slightly less than full drum - still with reasonable length back in cockpit to handle.

Its same gear as the larger halyards I have ... just less diameter

 

[Stemar]

Go for as large a line as your furler drum will hold. You need to allow enough for a tightly furled genny, plus about three more turns and a bit of slack. It'll be much kinder on your hands than a minimum size, and strength won't be an issue.

 

[Refueler]

I know its not 100% on topic - but related.

I see a lot of boats with furled gennys - where they leave the clew and a short part of sail still unfurled ... and then wonder why a few years later - that part is worn ....
Any strong wind will get that clew and sheets vibrating / even flapping .... if the owners just furled a few more turns so sheets wrapped round a couple of times - that clew and small part of sail - along with sheet attachment would live a nice easy life !

 

[emandvee44]

Ours is original, 8mm braid on braid. Works well.
M.

 

[dunedin]

Anything will do. It's not under constant load, so creep and stretch don't really matter.

It is under huge load when going to windward reefed, grinding the sheet in bar tight against it. Liros Dynamic Plus for us.

 

[Bobc]

when reefed the line is under a fair load....

No it isn't. You may not be able to pull it by hand, but you're nowhere near breaking strain.

 

[GHA]

It is under huge load when going to windward reefed, grinding the sheet in bar tight against it. Liros Dynamic Plus for us.

Indeed, with dyneema it doesn't roll in & out in the gusts either.

 

[Neeves]

Simply repeating what others have said:

We found that with 8mm braid on braid the drum was full and as went over and through swell the headsail would fill and 'empty', the drum would rotate clockwise/anticlockwise and the furling line would fall off the drum. Inevitably when we came to furl the line - it would not do so, as it was not on the drum. The furler would have been big enough for sailing in flat water but buying a furler with a bigger drum was much more expensive than replacing the furling line with dyneema. We replaced the furling line with 6mm dyneema and spliced a tail on the line, to make it easier to handle.



Problem solved.

Jonathan

 

[GHA]

Really not that difficult and a useful technique to know, dyneema spliced onto the end of jib sheets works well as well, no weight & no stretch.

 

[Refueler]

No it isn't. You may not be able to pull it by hand, but you're nowhere near breaking strain.

While I agree generally with your reply - the load on a furling line is not insignificant ... remember the sail is exerting a turning moment on that furler ... and its quite something when line lets go !!

When my forestay broke out of the stemhead fitting - that furler had that genny out so fast it was a blur ...

 

[Supertramp]

Another vote for 8mm braid on braid. Soft feel, not shiny and the last 6ft (at the drum) decored. Not a fan of winching furling lines hard as all that force has to go somewhere. But agree that the load on a part reefed sail in a gust is significant. Solent stay with hank on for when that point is reached.

 

[thinwater]

Around here it is common to fit a relatively larger line, and then strip the core so that only the cover is on the drum. I lies flat, like webbing and does not "dive" under load. (The clove hitch was intentional, to reduce strain on the knot. It seemed to help on this specific furler.)

 

[LadyInBed]

It is under huge load when going to windward reefed, grinding the sheet in bar tight against it. Liros Dynamic Plus for us.

Thanks, that was the info I was after.

 

[LadyInBed]

Indeed, ( Liros ) with dyneema it doesn't roll in & out in the gusts either.

Around here it is common to fit a relatively larger line, and then strip the core so that only the cover is on the drum. I lies flat, like webbing and does not "dive" under load. (The clove hitch was intentional, to reduce strain on the knot. It seemed to help on this specific furler.)

These are interesting ideas. Is the majority of the strength in the covering braid?
What are you using, stripped 10mm Liros or what?
Edit - just looked up Liros Dynamic Plus : Easy-handling, abrasion resistant line with low stretch, premium Polyester cover and Dyneema® core.
So obviously not using that with stripped core ?

 

[RJJ]

I use 5mm dry dyneema spliced into some larger double braid polyester at the cockpit end as it's easier to handle. Worked great so far, d12 dyneema is very chafe (and uv) resistant already but pretty much non stretch helps as well with no movement in the furling line in the gusts. Lots room on the drum.

Great idea. How do you finish the dyneema onto the furler - presuming it's too thin for the standard stopper knot to work?