Bouying off a stuck anchor for later retrieval?

If I were you, if it were truly snagged I would cut at the waterline, weight the cut end and then ditch it.
Its either snagged or it is not. Leaving it for another day doesn't unsnag it. A record on a plotter would be sufficient if you have any diver pals.

The cost of a 2.5kg anchor and 4 m is chain is less than the fuel you will burn [or rope] messing around.

Obviously there is an environmental impact but all things considered they are minimal for a rare event.
 
Then there are the fishermen that see your "creel marker" left in their patch and schnick there goes your buoy, don't ask me how I know! Lucky I had taken bearings and found the spot so I could dive and retrieve my anchor next good day, I had run out of bottom time and air to dive for it right away.
 
Others have said it but you really mustn't use polyprop for anchor rode. It reduces the effectiveness of your anchor and either you or someone else WILL come a cropper by wrapping it round a prop, rudder or keel. Doesn't matter that it's been ok so far - it will happen.
 
As an angler with your own boat I am surprised you had not rigged a trip.

As for anchoring over a wreck, usually asking for trouble. Plenty of snags around a wreck. I always drift, but never alone, always have someone on the helm keeping the drift over the mark and keeping a lookout.

Plus, as you have found, it is often too deep.

I am not trying to be patronising, but it might pay to go on a charter in the area where you fish and look closely how the Pro's do it.

Or join a boat angling club.

Experience is priceless.

And easily gained.
 
A couple of solutions here. For snaggy ground/wrecks use a rebar anchor which will bend out under pressure.
As Rotrax says, shackle the chain to the front eye on the Bruce then cable tie to the usual attachment point. If the anchor snags the cable ties should snap and the anchor will pull out backwards.
 
rotrax said:
As an angler with your own boat I am surprised you had not rigged a trip.

As for anchoring over a wreck, usually asking for trouble. Plenty of snags around a wreck. I always drift, but never alone, always have someone on the helm keeping the drift over the mark and keeping a lookout.

Plus, as you have found, it is often too deep.

I am not trying to be patronising, but it might pay to go on a charter in the area where you fish and look closely how the Pro's do it.

Or join a boat angling club.

Experience is priceless.

And easily gained.
Click to expand...
I do have a trip on my bruce, Its held by 2x 7mm cable ties BUT my danforth doesn't have a trip nor anywhere to attach one.


Firstly i check exactly where the wreck is on my sounder, then i switch my engine off to see which way the tide/wind is causing me to drift and in what direction, then i motor upwind/tide about 40-50m and check the ground is suitable to drop anchor, i mark the area on plotter before i drop, i then let out enough scope slowly until i can begin to see the wreck appearing on the sounder, i then tie off to my lazy line and put the motor astern to ensure anchor diggs in appropriately. I then keep checking to make sure the anchor is not dragging.

And the wrecks i fish are only 2NM offshore and only 23 or so metres deep.

I wouldn't say that I'm out of my depth here if im honest...there's folk that disappear into the horizon in tiny open rowing boats with a deisel inboard not to return at dusk with no technology onboard at all! Just 2 old men and 2 rods and return with a boat full of fish.

2miles offshore and in 23m of water is nothing compared to the distances that even alot of kayakers go, and they have reduced VHF horizon with them only having a hand held and sitting ontop of the water, anything past 3 miles of shore and they may as well of left the bloomin VHF at home. Ontop of that they only have a paddle as propulsion so if the tide picks up and their arms get fatigued they essentially will end up missing. As no chance of rowing several miles against strong wind/tide/chop/currents for long periods.

But it happens alot and MOST do it without problems.
 
rotrax said:
As for anchoring over a wreck, usually asking for trouble.
Click to expand...

There is anchoring on a wreck, and anchoring uptide of it so that your lines fish on the wreck. There are plenty of us who do anchor close to wrecks without issue. There are also plenty of charter skippers who do so. Your chances of catching conger are virtually nil unless you do so in all but the very smallest of tides and over slack water.
 
Why not have the rope in sections - say 20m with a meter of chain connected between them. That would sink and you could have it in sections do you only had to manhandle the amount of rope you need. So say 4 sections of 25m for example? Snap shackles or other quick attatch / detach method....
 
ontheplane said:
Why not have the rope in sections - say 20m with a meter of chain connected between them. That would sink and you could have it in sections do you only had to manhandle the amount of rope you need. So say 4 sections of 25m for example? Snap shackles or other quick attatch / detach method....
Click to expand...
Is introducing multiple weak points into an anchor rode really a good idea and cheaper than a decent sinking rode?
 
This all sounds like a hell of a fuss to anchor a 14ft dinghy for a bit of fishing! When I used to fish with hand lines, we used to drift most of the time but would occasionally anchor using a 10lb fisherman with a length of sisal 3strand rope. I have no idea how much rope there was, if it couldn't reach the bottom we just drifted. No chain either.

Nowadays, I would probably use whatever anchor I could find in a boat jumble and have look in the marina skip for discarded halyards. I may even find some discarded chain as well.
 
ontheplane said:
I also don't think adding chain mid- length would weaken it!.
Click to expand...
What about say 1m of 8mm galv chain mid way but to attach i could have 1 stainless shackle at either side of chain and measure the warp at slightly less length that the chain is, form loops at each end of warp and attach each shackle to warp, now i have (Double layer) And the best of both worlds, it's still weighted but the warp hasnt been cut either to form a weak point, even if the warp does snap there, I will have the chain attached as back up?

What you think?
 
Perfect, or just thread the chain onto the rope and cable tie in place, not cut rope, and well weighted, will also probably make rope sink lower and improve your angle of pull as well
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Dino
Securing to a visitors mooring
2
Replies
27
Views
1K
rotrax
R

Share this page

Top