Bouying off a stuck anchor for later retrieval?

MystyBlue2

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If i where to be anchored and for some reason it was completely wedged and had to buoy it off, Chuck the remaining rope overboard, plot it on my plotter and head home and then retrieve the whole lot at a later date, What would be the correct way of doing this?

I have a 2.5kg Bruce anchor,
4m 8mm galv chain,
100m 10mm polyprop anchor rode,
A1 polyform bouy.

I'm assuming i would use the boat hook and bring in my lazy line until i come to my overhand knot in the anchor warp. Lets say I'm in 10m of water so the knot would be tied at 40m, Disconnect the lazy line, Clip the buoy to the overhand knot and throw over....But what about the excess rope?

There would potentially be around 60m of floating polyprop floating on the surface causing potential hazards to other water traffic?

Would i have to coil it up as tightly to the buoy as possible before i ditch the whole anchor system or is there another way?

Cheers folks ?
 
Yeah i know its not ideal but with the amount of ropes onboard and the lengths involved i figured spending potentially £400+ on ropes and lines was a bit overkill for a small day fishing boat.

Heavy yachts and such yes but for what i do and how often i anchor I'd rather put that money for fancy octoplait ropes into my tank to get me out fishing or purchase more safety gear etc.

I've never had a problem using polyprop however it might start showing its weakness in scenarios like bouying off and such. I may have to re think. Cheers (y)
 
I have no idea why you need so much line or have so much line, all I will tell you is the day you are at anchor miles from anywhere you become a magnet for every other joyriding or passing boat to pass close by. Dont ask me why, lets just write it off as the human condition. Lets say he comes past barrelling along on the plane at 100 plus plenty to impress you with a wave and he picks up your floating line. All damage, all injury and all fault is yours for all parties and both boats.
C'est la vie, even if the other guy was being a muppet. Life is not fair and floating rope sucks.
 
If you are stuck for the present with floating rope consider using an angel weight. ( a lump of lead on a carabiner that you let down the line after anchoring to hold it down)
 
Coil the loose rope up in a hank, tightly so it doesn't undo itself. As Bruce suggests weighting it will make it less likely to tangle with passing boaters, a large shackle or two would do.
 
I carry 100m of anchor rope as i like to stick to the rule of 4:1 and pay out more if conditions dictate.

With all rope payed out that means i can safely anchor in 25m of depth in flat calm conditions. Some good fishing marks (mainly wrecks) are onwards and upwards of 35m deep near me.

So even though it sounds like i have plenty.....I have nowhere near enough to fish those wrecks and those wrecks are only 2NM offshore.

Plus the added fact, If the unfortunate event of an engine failure and i end up drifting out to sea into deeper water i can throw my anchor overboard and i know i have enough scope or rode to stop me disappearing past the horizon until help arrives. I like to think of my anchor as my handbrake!

So if not for fishing i like a lot of rope for saftey too.

But to replace the amount of rope i have with "Proper stuff" would mean £3.50 per metre.

And i like 100m minimum. Thats far too expensive for me and what i consider reasonable if I'm honest as would be the eye bulging £350 for anchor rope which is ridiculous by anybodys standards for its purpose.

I like the sound of tightly wrapping the excess and weighing it down.

Cheers folks ?
 
I have no idea why you need so much line or have so much line, all I will tell you is the day you are at anchor miles from anywhere you become a magnet for every other joyriding or passing boat to pass close by. Dont ask me why, lets just write it off as the human condition. Lets say he comes past barrelling along on the plane at 100 plus plenty to impress you with a wave and he picks up your floating line. All damage, all injury and all fault is yours for all parties and both boats.
C'est la vie, even if the other guy was being a muppet. Life is not fair and floating rope sucks.
Good point (y)
 
I carry 100m of anchor rope as i like to stick to the rule of 4:1 and pay out more if conditions dictate.

With all rope payed out that means i can safely anchor in 25m of depth in flat calm conditions. Some good fishing marks (mainly wrecks) are onwards and upwards of 35m deep near me.

So even though it sounds like i have plenty.....I have nowhere near enough to fish those wrecks and those wrecks are only 2NM offshore.

Plus the added fact, If the unfortunate event of an engine failure and i end up drifting out to sea into deeper water i can throw my anchor overboard and i know i have enough scope or rode to stop me disappearing past the horizon until help arrives. I like to think of my anchor as my handbrake!

So if not for fishing i like a lot of rope for saftey too.

But to replace the amount of rope i have with "Proper stuff" would mean £3.50 per metre.

And i like 100m minimum. Thats far too expensive for me and what i consider reasonable if I'm honest as would be the eye bulging £350 for anchor rope which is ridiculous by anybodys standards for its purpose.

I like the sound of tightly wrapping the excess and weighing it down.

Cheers folks ?
Then lets hope you can pay the bills when an accident happens due to having floating line.It’s not an option if you want to be a responsible boater.
 
Then lets hope you can pay the bills when an accident happens due to having floating line.It’s not an option if you want to be a responsible boater.
So your telling me that the average anchor for a small 14ft day/fishing boat is worth £400+ with...

Anchor £35 + rope £350 + stainless shackles/Thimbles £15 + 4m Glav chain £30.

That is ridiculous! And anybody can see that.

Massive yachts and mobos...Maybe, tiny boats anchored up for 3hrs....Daylight robbery.
 
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More to the point, floating line really won't work well as anchor rode. If it doesn't sink, how can it make a catenary?
 
More to the point, floating line really won't work well as anchor rode. If it doesn't sink, how can it make a catenary?
The anchor holds extremely well with the heavy 4m of 8mm galv chain + the weight of the anchor itself. My setup has never bumped, Dragged or dislodged itself.

All that weight counteracts the buoyancy of the polyprop floating rope.
 
So your telling me that the average anchor for a small 14ft day/fishing boat is worth £400+ with anchor £35 + rope £350 + stainless shackles/Thimbles £15 + 4m Glav chain £30.

That is ridiculous! And anybody can see that.

Massive yachts and mobos...Maybe, tiny boats anchored up for 3hrs....Daylight robbery.
You are right, that would be overkill if try that you needed £350 pound rope but you don’t - even a 6mm nylon rope will have more breaking strain than your anchor will take, so as you have chain to allow for chafe at the anchor end you can buy 30m for 13.99 on Amazon and I’m sure cheaper than that with more than the quick look I just did.
 
You are right, that would be overkill if try that you needed £350 pound rope but you don’t - even a 6mm nylon rope will have more breaking strain than your anchor will take, so as you have chain to allow for chafe at the anchor end you can buy 30m for 13.99 on Amazon and I’m sure cheaper than that with more than the quick look I just did.
But i always thought the thickness of the rope wasn't just based on braking strain.

I always thought it was a balance between...

Cost,
Strength,
Purpose,
Material,
And practicality.

Like i always thought something as small as 6mm might be cheap and strong enough BUT it would cut my hands to bits and cut grooves in the gel coat as it will rub from time to time. Costing alot more in repairs.

Thats why i went bigger diameter, Not only for strength but a whole bunch of other factors too.
 
But i always thought the thickness of the rope wasn't just based on braking strain.

I always thought it was a balance between...

Cost,
Strength,
Purpose,
Material,
And practicality.

Like i always thought something as small as 6mm might be cheap and strong enough BUT it would cut my hands to bits and cut grooves in the gel coat as it will rub from time to time. Costing alot more in repairs.

Thats why i went bigger diameter, Not only for strength but a whole bunch of other factors too.
Then thats a higher cost which you need to bear. I myself would go for 6mm on a windable DIY reel and protect the gelcoat with an old towel where the rope wears the gelcoat and for a little bit of effort save a lot of cost. Save on the reel with a thick pair of gardening gloves instead if you prefer.
 
Then thats a higher cost which you need to bear. I myself would go for 6mm on a windable DIY reel and protect the gelcoat with an old towel where the rope wears the gelcoat and for a little bit of effort save a lot of cost. Save on the reel with a thick pair of gardening gloves instead if you prefer.
This any good then?

6mm White 8-Plait Polyester Cord | Marine Quality | RopesDirect

OR

Boat rope Marlow 8 plait polyester sheet halyard rope size 8 mm length 100metres | eBay
 
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If i where to be anchored and for some reason it was completely wedged and had to buoy it off, Chuck the remaining rope overboard, plot it on my plotter and head home and then retrieve the whole lot at a later date, What would be the correct way of doing this?.......

There would potentially be around 60m of floating polyprop floating on the surface causing potential hazards to other water traffic?

Simple answer, cut off the excess rope and keep it onboard.
 
Don't know where you are buying your rope, but you can buy much cheaper than that. eBay - 5kg bruce style anchor Kit 10 Metres Of 8mm chain 660ft 10mm rope | eBay for instance.

There's no excuse for polyprop - sorry, don't mean to sound like I'm having a go at you (although I suppose, I am). It's just that there are perfectly good and affordable alternatives.

As for the original question - you should bring in the warp until you are directly above the anchor - allow sufficient extra for the maximum amount of change in water depth (i.e. at high water springs), coil up the remainder if you don't want to cut it (understandably) and secure it so that it won't unfurl - then attach your buoy. The coiled rope will then sit below the surface, beneath the floating buoy.
 
6mm will hurt your hands if you cant use the Alderny method of retrieval. The accepted size 3 strand nylon for your size boat based on practicality would be 10mm. Jimmy Green is expensive but good stuff. You could shop around for 3 strand nylon on a 100m drum and probably get it for about 80 quid.
 
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