Botnia Targa KAD 44, KAD 300 running hot

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Roughcut

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A friend and I have 2 x Botnia Targas (30' and 32') one with twin KAD 44's, one with twin KAD300's - both with Volvo outdrives (DPG and DPE).
Both pairs of engines show running temperatures in the high 90's Centigrade as the boats hit planing speed - rising to over 101 (and more) as we go over 3000 RPM and up to WOT.
All the usual suspects (heat exchanger; intercooler; oil cooler; impellors; thermostats; exhaust elbows) have been replaced/cleaned and at least one of the DPG outdrives is brand new.

Are there any Botnia Targa owners with experience of KAD cooling issues ? Alternatively, does your Botnia Targa run much cooler (ie in the high 80's or low 90's?)
We're just trying to gather some sense of what might be "normal" . Any all insights very welcome!
Thanks very much.
 
Roughcut said:
A friend and I have 2 x Botnia Targas (30' and 32') one with twin KAD 44's, one with twin KAD300's - both with Volvo outdrives (DPG and DPE).
Both pairs of engines show running temperatures in the high 90's Centigrade as the boats hit planing speed - rising to over 101 (and more) as we go over 3000 RPM and up to WOT.
All the usual suspects (heat exchanger; intercooler; oil cooler; impellors; thermostats; exhaust elbows) have been replaced/cleaned and at least one of the DPG outdrives is brand new.

Are there any Botnia Targa owners with experience of KAD cooling issues ? Alternatively, does your Botnia Targa run much cooler (ie in the high 80's or low 90's?)
We're just trying to gather some sense of what might be "normal" . Any all insights very welcome!
Thanks very much.
Click to expand...
Have you checked the temperature using an Infrared heat gun?
 
Have you done a live data run with diagnostic key plugged in . ? I can read the edc temp which is a separate sender to the gauge one , air inlet temp fuel temp etc .

id say your engines if the gauge is correct are running at the limit , do you have the overheat alarm on , that cuts in at 96 deg C .
 
Yes we have EDC data on the chartplotter from a Yacht Devices Gateway. And the NMEA temperature is pretty much the same as the analogue gauge. The alarms have gone off in the past (eg when a hose popped off a few years back) - but interestingly, they aren't going off at the moment even though we're seemingly way over the 96 deg limit, (I hadn't heard that trigger point before). Do you know how the alarms are triggered? (from the EDC or the analogue circuit?)
It suggests that either the alarms are somehow not going off at the right temperature - or the temperature senders are duff and we're not really running as hot as we think. Thanks - that's a useful avenue to explore. Just seems a bit odd if all 4 of our combined engines are suffering from the same issue. Though both boats are 20 years old now so maybe there's an ageing factor in common. I might need to invest in a new EDC sender and see if that changes anything.
 
volvopaul said:
Have you done a live data run with diagnostic key plugged in . ? I can read the edc temp which is a separate sender to the gauge one , air inlet temp fuel temp etc .

id say your engines if the gauge is correct are running at the limit , do you have the overheat alarm on , that cuts in at 96 deg C .
Click to expand...
Are you talking about coolant temperature?
 
Roughcut said:
Yes we have EDC data on the chartplotter from a Yacht Devices Gateway. And the NMEA temperature is pretty much the same as the analogue gauge. The alarms have gone off in the past (eg when a hose popped off a few years back) - but interestingly, they aren't going off at the moment even though we're seemingly way over the 96 deg limit, (I hadn't heard that trigger point before). Do you know how the alarms are triggered? (from the EDC or the analogue circuit?)
It suggests that either the alarms are somehow not going off at the right temperature - or the temperature senders are duff and we're not really running as hot as we think. Thanks - that's a useful avenue to explore. Just seems a bit odd if all 4 of our combined engines are suffering from the same issue. Though both boats are 20 years old now so maybe there's an ageing factor in common. I might need to invest in a new EDC sender and see if that changes anything.
Click to expand...
Do you have the EDC workshop manual? That talks about the maximum air and water temp sensors. PM me your email address if you want a copy.
 
petem said:
Do you have the EDC workshop manual? That talks about the maximum air and water temp sensors. PM me your email address if you want a copy.
Click to expand...
I don’t have the edc manual. Thanks. That sounds like it would be very useful. Will pm you.
 
Presumably they've been checked but seawater intakes (or seawater strainers)?

If the boats are moored in the same marina it's the only thing I can think of that connects the problems (excess growth / impeded water flow)
 
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Big thanks to everyone who replied to this, and especially petem who kindly sent me a copy of the EDC manual. So, after discovering there are 2 separate temperature transducers at different ends of the cooling path, we finally twigged (I think) that the digitised EDC transducer reads higher than the sensor in the thermostat housing. So from having initially thought the EDC temperatures would be the accurate ones to monitor, it looks like they run hotter than the analogue sensor. Since the analogue sensor sits in the earlier (cooler part) of the engine, and the EDC sensor sits towards the end where the water has (feasibly) had longer to soak up more heat, then the theory that they show hotter temperatures seems to make sense. So we've set a -10 degree offset in the NMEA gateway, and now analogue gauges and EDC/NMEA readings show roughly the same temperature in the high 80's and low 90's. Which I think is roughly where they should be. At some point I'll take the EDC sensor out and plot a calibration graph of its resistance values)as listed in the EDC manual.
But I think we suffered from too much information, and not enough understanding of the context. Shout out to Alexey Korolev at Yacht Devices who replied to emails within a few hours each time and was very helpful. They even have a similar case in their manual - so it seems we're not alone. Plus its a reminder to JRTFM.... (Just read the flippin manual). Thanks again for everyone's helpful comments. CL>
 
Roughcut said:
Big thanks to everyone who replied to this, and especially petem who kindly sent me a copy of the EDC manual. So, after discovering there are 2 separate temperature transducers at different ends of the cooling path, we finally twigged (I think) that the digitised EDC transducer reads higher than the sensor in the thermostat housing. So from having initially thought the EDC temperatures would be the accurate ones to monitor, it looks like they run hotter than the analogue sensor. Since the analogue sensor sits in the earlier (cooler part) of the engine, and the EDC sensor sits towards the end where the water has (feasibly) had longer to soak up more heat, then the theory that they show hotter temperatures seems to make sense. So we've set a -10 degree offset in the NMEA gateway, and now analogue gauges and EDC/NMEA readings show roughly the same temperature in the high 80's and low 90's. Which I think is roughly where they should be. At some point I'll take the EDC sensor out and plot a calibration graph of its resistance values)as listed in the EDC manual.
But I think we suffered from too much information, and not enough understanding of the context. Shout out to Alexey Korolev at Yacht Devices who replied to emails within a few hours each time and was very helpful. They even have a similar case in their manual - so it seems we're not alone. Plus its a reminder to JRTFM.... (Just read the flippin manual). Thanks again for everyone's helpful comments. CL>
Click to expand...
I came across exactly the same issue with your supplier , boost pressure showed 14psi when engines off now what’s all that about , totally useless set up .
 
volvopaul said:
I came across exactly the same issue with your supplier , boost pressure showed 14psi when engines off now what’s all that about , totally useless set up .
Click to expand...
That sounds about right to me. It’s showing you the atmospheric pressure which is typically 15psi. I think that you can offset that to zero in the config file if you want to. You just need to edit the text file on the micro SD and set the relative parameter to ‘relative’ rather than ‘absolute’. You should find more details in the manual. Hope that helps.
 
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