Boat ready for return to sea tomorrow …. Some good photos and some bad!

RichardS

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This photo was taken a few hours ago as we’re now ready to be lifted back in tomorrow following the insurance work done on the bows after last year’s midnight anchor drag and subsequent ramming by one of our Continental cousins.

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The bows now look beautiful. :)

The other good news is that the Flex-O-Folds which have been on the boat for 14 months are in perfect condition. There was even grease still present on all the blade swivel pins although we only did around 100 miles last year which is our worst ever year …. and most of that was on engines. However I did pack the hubs and gear full of waterproof grease last year and have done so again today. The only problem with that is that is takes a lot of grease ….. probably 75 ml in each prop so I’m going to have to buy another tub. :(

One unforeseen advantage of the Flex-O-Folds is that the anode at the end seems to have completely relieved that saildrive anode of all its responsibilities. As you can see in the photos below, the saildrive anode is identical to last year. This is a “good thing” because I could change the prop anode underwater if I had to whereas I could never change the saildrive anode. The saildrive anodes have been on for 2 years but it now looks as if they will last forever.

The two photos also show up another change of plan. The lovely polished prop attracts those damn tube worm things just as much as the Coppercoat does so I’ve had to abandon “lovely polished props” this year and gone for Trilux all round, which is a shame but needs must.

March 2017:

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May 2018:

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The massive disappointment is the Coppercoat. You may recall that the Service Manager here advised me that Coppercoat did not work in this marina and I have to now accept that he was right.

Before power wash:

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This is the 3rd year of haul out with Coppercoat and each year it has been worse than the year before, despite the hours spent rubbing the entire hull down with Scotchbrite pads each year. In fact, this year the worm casts after power washing were still so bad that they destroyed the Scotchbrite in a few seconds so we first had to scrape down the hulls with metal scrapers to remove the worst of the casts and then use the Scotchbrite.

After power wash:

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I even tried the hydrochloric acid treatment on the Scotchbrite but it only seemed to have any effect using 19% HCL. All lower dilutions seemed to do nothing. The problem with using HCL at 19% is that it’s going to cost rather a lot to do both hulls and the tiniest drop anywhere on your body and it stings like hell. I was wearing rubber gloves but I had to keep plunging my arms into a bucket of water when the stinging started. :ambivalence:

The Service Manager came over to see how we were getting on and suggested that the only way to remove the residue of the worm casts was with a power tool and did I want him to do that and slap on a few coats of antifoul?

I said that I would give it one more year …. But next year I’m bringing down my power sander and I’m going to do the whole lot with that. It may well take me right back to the gel coat but then I’ll antifoul it anyway so I’ll be no worse off …. Apart from the £1000’s wasted on Coppercoat that is.

Oh well, some things in life go well ….. and some don’t. :o

Richard
 
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That's strange. There should be 5 photos and I can see them all in my post. Which ones can't you see Paul?

I've now put in some blank lines between the text and the photos in case that makes a difference.

Richard

I see them all now Richard :encouragement:
 
She looks nice, all ready for the new season ahead. Hope launch goes well.

The Coppercoat looks dreadful. Did the SM explain why it doesn’t work in your marina?

My saildrive anode is also good for a couple of seasons but the one protecting the prop gets eaten quite quickly. Painting the prop (Trilux) slowed down the loss, at least until use has washed away some of the antifoul.



Edit, thanks for the tip re Penguin. Looks like they can help me for around £20.......compared to £180 from Beneteau for a replacement tap!
 
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I have to say that I've never been much of a believer in Coppercoat. It seems to me that if the boat has to come out to be scrubbed and have new anodes fitted each year anyway, then it's not much grief to slap a coat of paint on at the same time, and I worked out that the cost of having my boat Coppercoated was the equivilent of 30 years worth of antifouling paint.
 
Tried telling the manufacturers at a boat show that their copper coat does not work very well & they got very shirty.
I hope they see those pictures; although looking at the picture of the antifouled prop one can see a bit of the hull & it does not look as though it has been properly cleaned off to start with. You say that you have abraded it but If I was the manufacturer looking at that picture I might question your comment.
Apologies if I am wrong, perhaps I cannot see enough of the hulls, or the picture is distorted
 
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Very pleased that your boat is again all up together and shiny. Also, FlexoFold props are lovely: I'll be buying another when I next need a propeller.

Coppercoat. It doesn't work in Portsmouth harbour either. Yet some people are so shirty and won't believe you as your opinion doesn't match what they want to believe :-) For me it is antifouling all the way.

Have a great season and get loads of sailing in...
 
Tried telling the manufacturers at a boat show that their copper coat does not work very well & they got very shirty.
I hope they see those pictures; although looking at the picture of the antifouled prop one can see a bit of the hull & it does not look as though it has been properly cleaned off to start with. You say that you have abraded it but If I was the manufacturer looking at that picture I might question your comment.
Apologies if I am wrong, perhaps I cannot see enough of the hulls, or the picture is distorted

It's a real struggle to abrade it properly because it's impossible to remove the white "arc" left by the worms. The metal scraper removes the cast itself but doesn't touch the "arc", unlike the odd barnacle where the scraper removes the barnacle and its foot without any problem.

I think that the worms "arcs" are embedded slightly into the Coppercoat which is why scraping does not remove them. To remove them with Scotchbrite and water is impossible as well. You can scrub and scrub on one spot and eventually you can remove most of them but to do the hulls at that rate would take weeks .... that's assuming that your arms could stand it, which mine can't.

The Scotchbrite plus 19% HCL does work because it seems to both soften the Coppercoat and fizz away at the "arcs" but if Coppercoat suggested that as a solution then it would be banned by the Government as the injury toll began to rise.

As the SN said, a power sander would be the only way to abrade that amount of hull back to clean Coppercoat within a reasonable time period .... but if Coppercoat suggested that then no-one would use it. :ambivalence:

All the scrubbing and scraping leaves a white powdery deposit on the hulls, presumably the residue of the worm casts which have been removed. The seawater will soon wash that off though.

I bought Coppercoat, not because I thought it would be more effective than the antifoul I had before, but because I thought it would be less annual maintenance and cheaper in the long run. I think that both of those hopes have been quashed, plus, on this years performance which is far worse than the previous 2 years, it's no longer actually as effective as conventional antifoul. :(

By the way, last year, as well as scraping the hulls with plastic scrapers I also used Scotchbrite on them but this didn't remove the "arcs" last year either and it never will. The power sander next year will sort it, one way or the other.

Richard
 
I must be simple

You photos, the one immediately under the comment - 'before the power wash' show appalling fouling but the Coppercoat above the fouling looks a huge area, and clean. So why is it clean there. You presumably only applied CC from waterline down - so why no fouling.

Puzzled

Jonathan
 
Richard
I hate the scotch brite route as it seems to do B..r all & it is a job to understand exactly how much to remove. i did try a pad sander once but probably did not just expose the copper but removed it & put it back to the epoxy overcoat. So I am not sure that it works as one might expect. I did half the boat that way & half with the scotch bright & the scotch brite side was marginally better!!!! May be due to the way it is moored to the sun.

this year I put a scotchbrite pad into a telescopic arm similar to the type drylining contractors use to sand plasterboard walls. I find that far easier & quicker. you can buy them from many UK builders merchants. The scotchbrite pads need to be the larger ones which I buy from paint suppliers - I have an account at Brewers - but there are others. I have to put the pad on diagonally to get it to fit in to the clamps but that way it works OK as an inexpensive solution. If you cannot get them big enough fit them on with hot melt adhesive.
Put the acid in a bucket, or preferably a square tub, dip the end of the pole in it & you can splash away to your hearts content without getting your arms burnt.
 
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I must be simple

You photos, the one immediately under the comment - 'before the power wash' show appalling fouling but the Coppercoat above the fouling looks a huge area, and clean. So why is it clean there. You presumably only applied CC from waterline down - so why no fouling.

Puzzled

Jonathan

Well spotted Jonathan.

It's because this is a ten berth cat and the water line is set to be correct with 10 people on board and a maximum load of 2800 kg. We usually only have 2 or 3 on board and very little stuff ( a few T-shirts and pairs of shorts!) so we ride very high in the water and the bright green Coppercoat is where it gets splashed but never submerged. :)

Richard
 
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