Boat in build - little Viking 20.

Extended cruising on a small boat?

Thank you all so much for your kind comments. To say we're pleased with the boat is an understatement :D. Even the items that need attention do not in any way detract from what we think is a lovely little boat.

Even after spending five consecutive nights on board wasn't a hardship. Being a small boat, I feel the biggest factor we have to consider is fresh water usage. As we only carry 120lt of water, on the Thames we find we're constantly on the look out for water points and take advantage every other day to top up, be it at locks or marinas. The cassette loo also lasted five days and probably still had room for another two days worth :eek:.

Carrying 37lt of petrol (call it 33lt with a 10% safety margin), is giving us on average, 30-32 hours of cruising on the Thames. Bearing in mind the engine's still a bit tight and working harder than it should due to the prop issue, I'm hoping the fuel consumption will improve further. With the distances and hours we cover on a daily basis, we aim to look for petrol every 5-6 days. We could, if required, carry another 12lt at a push.

Food and drink carried on board is no different to any other large boat I've owned. OK, maybe we need to plan a bit ahead due to the fridge capacity but I can't see this being an issue even on extended cruising, say 10-14 days.

Being a boat that's trailed, we have to be ever mindful of not overloading the boat with things we don't need. Extra fuel is carried in the car prior to launching, likewise we only tend to fill up with fresh water after launching, thereby saving 120kg on the laden weight whilst towing. The Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel has already proved it's worth whilst recovering on rain drenched slipways and gives around 26mpg on a 100 mile round trip of dual carriageways and A roads. It's also handy having the boat at home as we can clean and maintain it at our leisure.

To date, we've had no issues with the Thames slipways we use. We're hoping to get futher afield in the next twelve months and the Broads, Ouse, Wye and Severn are on our radar :). And, with gas fired blown warm air heating, our cruising season has now been extended, river conditions permitting.

Norfolk Broads in August - here we come :).
 
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Snagging list - hmmmm.

A couple of minor things came to light within the first day of ownership and the boat hadn't even seen the water, river water that is ;).

Being a Seaglaze three piece front screen, rainwater leaks developed beween the sections. On informing Viking of this, we were told they knew exactly where the problem lay and that the sections would need sealing. "We've seen this before", so why weren't the sections sealed at the factory? Viking came to our home address within two weeks and also fitted some extra poppers and lift dots to the canopy, again to prevent rainwater ingress in high winds. We'd also contacted the canopy manufacturer (the first time Viking had used this guy on a V20) prior to Viking coming out and found his approach to sorting out our issues sadly lacking and a reluctance to come and see us. Hopefully we'll have no issues with the canopy in the forseeable future.

On taking a good detailed look round the boat revealed that the portable fuel tank hadn't been strapped down (no straps or fixings in place) but this was dealt with at the same time as sealing the screen.

Then we spotted a dent on the front hatch. It had either been damaged in transit to Viking or dropped at their factory. Either way, we didn't spot it when we collected the boat but Viking fitted a new hatch (and frame?) within 3 weeks of us raising the issue.

There's an ongoing issue with the starboard Seaglaze window setup. The standard starboard window doesn't have any openers but we wanted a sliding opener as per the port side. The port side window has five drainage holes, presumably because of the sliding window but the standard fixed window only has four. Apparently, according to Seaglaze, this is what Viking spec for the V20. Now the issue - when showering, water builds up in the window channel in the heads to a depth of around 3/4" x 18". This has to be soaked up by hand otherwise it slops over the sides when under way. Not a major gripe but Viking suggested we contact Seaglaze (:confused:) and Seaglaze said speak to Viking. This one's ongoing but again, not a major issue but frustrating that no one wants to come out and deal with the matter.

Hull finish and mould marks/imperfections - look down the hull sides from stern to bow on any modern, mass produced GRP boat and I guess you won't see many ripples :confused:. Not so on a V20 where the hull finish is decidedly "rippley" :(. Looking straight on at the hull shows no visble rippling. There are also cosmetic mould imperfections and Viking say these should compound out and will attend to them when they're next in our area. This was two weeks ago and we're still waiting. I've since found out from ex Viking dealers on the Thames that the hull moulds probaly date back to the 70's, if not earlier, so many years of churning out hulls and repairing the moulds has taken it's toll on the hull quality.

The quality of the interior joinery and fitout is to a very high finish on a budget boat, so no gripes here. However, there's a few marks on some of the exposed woodwork edges, including the dinette table, that must have been caused at the factory by sloppy handling or careless fitters.

The steering developed a lot of free play at the steering wheel shaft but I cured this one day by adjusting the friction and damping out the free play. For "friction adjustment", read "tighten jubilee hose clip around wheel spindle :o".

Finally, we have the prop issue :mad:. I'll leave you to read my other thread as this is still ongoing http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=318698

All in all, not many problems and most are minor. To date, nothing's broken as such and nothing's fallen off. Time will tell as to how the fixtures, fittings and upholstery stand up to our careful use.

When we first set out on our quest for a new build boat, we chose the direct route as suggested by Viking and thereby saved many £'s by not using one of their agents/dealers. However, I feel that having a dealer to moan at and get things sorted could be benficial. Viking's response to e-mails is very slow and things seem to get sorted quicker with a phone call. In addition, if I bought a Princess, Fairline or any other mainstream boat, I'd expect the dealer or boat builder to sort out issues with equipment they've supplied and not for the customer to contact the suppliers. See where I'm coming from?

Any questions or comments would be welcome, either via this thread or PM.

Take care guys and happy boating :):)
 
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Well, a result, two problems dealt with today :).

Wayne Goodwin from Viking turned up out of the blue a few hours ago to sort out the blemishes on the hull and did a good job - thanks mate ;).

In order to get the prop issue sorted out asap, we struck a deal whereby we should have a new high/power thrust prop delivered to us by Friday or Saturday this week.

So, apart from the Seaglaze window issue which I'm sure will be resolved shortly, everything's looking very rosy :D.
 
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Well, a result, two problems dealt with today :).

Wayne Goodwin from Viking turned up out of the blue a few hours ago to sort out the blemishes on the hull and did a good job - thanks mate ;).

In order to get the prop issue sorted out asap, we struck a deal whereby we should have a new high/power thrust prop delivered to us by Friday or Saturday this week.

So, apart from the Seaglaze window issue which I'm will be resolved shortly, everything's looking very rosy :D.

Power of the Forum maybe?
 
Deefor, thanks for posting all that, lovely boat and amazing interior space/facilities for the length - well done to Viking on that

To be honest I'm worried about a few details. Black cabling going to +ve terminal on battery offends my CDO principles and I would change it for red. Those 100mm dia vents in the hull sides reduce your freeboard to only about a foot and mean you couldn't ever take the boat on the sea - they should have a fix, such as swan necks glued on the inside, or something, imho. Finally I would mount the engine higher, as someone said, and it looks odd that they only used 2 bolts not 4 to attach it but maybe that's what Honda recommends.

But these are small niggles - lovely looking boat inside and out imho, and great value

PS, I'm intrigued about the jubilee clip on the s/s rail on the cabin top. What's it for?
 
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Hi Deefor

Your pictures show a great looking river boat with a quality finish. The space you have looks brilliant for the size as has been said time and time again.

Glade I'm not the only one to spot the black cable to + terminal.. but I had not thought about the freeboard of those vents.... trust jfm..... but good choice of engine BTW

But got to just question that enormous aerial. Now I have a 9yr old daughter and so find it pretty important we have a fully functioning tv on board and now with the digital switch over we get briliant reception where ever we go through one of these..

http://www.parkmyauto.co.uk/the-best-portable-digital-free-view-tv-aerial-antenna-926-p.asp

horrid advertising, brilliant product. I have a pretty cheap free view TV on board and this aerial I keep now with the cable wound up sitting behind the tv in the cabin and I get every station with perfect reception. Only every now and again I have to unwind the cable and position the aerial up in the wheelhouse. Once upon a time I was going to mount permanently up on the coach roof, so glade I didn't now as no need....
 
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Deefor, thanks for posting all that, lovely boat and amazing interior space/facilities for the length - well done to Viking on that

To be honest I'm worried about a few details. Black cabling going to +ve terminal on battery offends my CDO principles and I would change it for red. Those 100mm dia vents in the hull sides reduce your freeboard to only about a foot and mean you couldn't ever take the boat on the sea - they should have a fix, such as swan necks glued on the inside, or something, imho. Finally I would mount the engine higher, as someone said, and it looks odd that they only used 2 bolts not 4 to attach it but maybe that's what Honda recommends.

But these are small niggles - lovely looking boat inside and out imho, and great value

PS, I'm intrigued about the jubilee clip on the s/s rail on the cabin top. What's it for?

I'll start with the easy ones first..........

The jubilee clip is there to clamp a wind direction indicator flag to the rail. Have to remove it when towing for obvious reasons.

Outboard length - having spoken to three Honda dealers, they all say that the long shaft BF20 is the correct OB for the V20. Yes, the OB cavitation plate is 2.5" below the bottom of the transom but a short shaft version would put the plate 2.5" above the lowest point of the transom. A bit of a compromise here I'm afraid.

Outboard fixing - apart from the two bolts that are visible in the photos, the OB also has the "normal" screw type clamps where the OB sits on the transom. So in effect, four fixings or holding points. Again, Honda say this is the norm for this type of boat.

Battery cable - well spotted because I hadn't noticed this one. I'll deal with this myself asap, either by applying red heat shrink, wrapping the cable in red insulating tape or ideally, replacing with a suitably sized red cable. Would you believe that the boat came with a Boat Safety Scheme certificate although it's not strictly required on a new build boat - seems they miised this cable then :eek:.

Plastic vent fittings on starboard side - now you've got me thinking. The boat is only rated at a RCD Cat D and I quote from another site "Designed for voyages on sheltered coastal waters, small bays, small lakes, rivers and canals when conditions up to, and including, wind force 4 and significant wave heights up to, and including, 0.3 m may be experienced, with occasional waves of 0.5 m maximum height, for example from passing vessels". The bottom of thse two vents are 0.42m above the waterline so, in theory at least, the boat is OK. But in reality, I take on board what you're saying and will have a look at ways to stop any possible water ingress and then get back to the builder. Best to have my own ideas first and then discuss them with the builder. This might mean pulling the oven and fridge to see what's behind :eek:.

Now that you've mentioned the position of vents, I've taken a look at those on the starboard stern quarter and am somewhat concerned that one of them is only 125mm above the waterline. I'll get some pics taken of the other vents and maybe start a separate thread for discussion with regards to RCD CAT D compliance, so plesae keep an eye out and comment as appropriate.

Many thanks again for pointing out a few things which I need to address :).

But here's one to be going on with....

001-Copy9.jpg
 
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I do not think that you should store your spare gas bottle in an ordinary locker. The BSS guide states that "All LPG containers and high-pressure components must be secured in a position where escaping gas does not enter the interior of the vessel." Is it not possible to keep both cylinders in the gas locker?
 
Is it only me or am I just out of touch?
I'm really struggling to get my head around the price of this little boat. After all we all know what the alternatives cost, but this just seems to be such good value for money when compared to other inland craft. When you consider the sum of the parts and the labour involved, I think Viking should really be congratulated for producing a cabin cruiser at this price. Well done!
 
Is it not possible to keep both cylinders in the gas locker?

Most certainly, as the locker was designed to take two bottles. On a small boat of this size, a few kg ballast (gas bottles, OB fuel tank, mooring stakes etc.) on the wrong side can cause a list to port or starboard and have a dramatic effect on how the boat handles and sits in the water. At the moment, until the wife loses 5-10kg :rolleyes:, I have to move something from starboard to port to balance the boat and the spare gas bottle is the easy answer.

Alternatively, I could add weight to the port side but we have to conside the overall weight when towing :o.
 
Sad start to 2013 :(.

After only 8 months of ownership and only 90 hours cruising in 32 days of usage, we've decided to sell our lovely little V20 due to family reasons.

No more boating for us as our 19 year old disabled daughter is moving from Buckinghamshire to North Wales and most, if not all, of our weekends and holidays will be taken up travelling to visit her (440 mile round trip :eek:).

If anyone's interested or knows of someone who might like an almost new Viking 20, please have a look here for starters. http://www.vikingowners.org.uk/marketplace/marketplace.asp?g=1

Happy new year to you all and have a great 2013 :).
 
have just purchased a rather elderly viking 20 and was interested to see the photograph of the boat naked. My own boat, Brigadoon, is a project so I will be watching your progress with interest and shamelessly stealing any ideas. Enjoy your boat.
 
Sad start to 2013 :(.

After only 8 months of ownership and only 90 hours cruising in 32 days of usage, we've decided to sell our lovely little V20 due to family reasons.

No more boating for us as our 19 year old disabled daughter is moving from Buckinghamshire to North Wales and most, if not all, of our weekends and holidays will be taken up travelling to visit her (440 mile round trip :eek:).

If anyone's interested or knows of someone who might like an almost new Viking 20, please have a look here for starters. Viking Owners Club

Happy new year to you all and have a great 2013 :).
I just today found your wonderful post and read it entirely and was saddened to see that you likely are no longer with your v20. I'm considering a custom new build and learned quite a bit from your words and wisdom. I thought, I'd like one exactly like this... so sad to see not only that you don't have it, but hear it is in the future... and I did not have a chance to purchase! Thank you for all the words and photos!
 
I like you found this very interesting as I have just bought a 2012 Viking 20. I have tried to find a way of contacting Deefor but cannot find a way.
I want to fit a propex heater in mine and the only photo he hasn't included is where the propex heater goes!!!He alludes to it being behind the rear seat cushion on page 4 but I would like to check this is right. So if you do investigate Viking 20's let me know if you know where the heating goes!!!
 
I just today found your wonderful post and read it entirely and was saddened to see that you likely are no longer with your v20. I'm considering a custom new build and learned quite a bit from your words and wisdom. I thought, I'd like one exactly like this... so sad to see not only that you don't have it, but hear it is in the future... and I did not have a chance to purchase! Thank you for all the words and photos!
I like you found this very interesting as I have just bought a 2012 Viking 20. I have tried to find a way of contacting Deefor but cannot find a way.
I want to fit a propex heater in mine and the only photo he hasn't included is where the propex heater goes!!!He alludes to it being behind the rear seat cushion on page 4 but I would like to check this is right. So if you do investigate Viking 20's let me know if you know where the heating goes!!!
 
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