Boat identification??

what a beauty!
I bet there is many a shipwright would love that as a hobby restoration project.
No disrespect implied but....if you are not an expert it may be worth considering getting her valued around the yards in the monied areas of the South etc before doing amateur work on her.
For the money gained by selling her you may be able to get a modern boat that's easy to use and maintain. Also saving a real treasure.
 
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Might be worth you getting a copy of john Leather on Clinker Boatbuilding. Dry but very useful. Explains how it all goes together etc.
eg: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clinker-Boatbuilding-John-Leather/dp/0713636432

(btw most carvel boats use ordinary linseed oil putty to pay the seams so I don't suppose it would wash out. But as said before, you might want a bit more support under that stem band)
 
I don't think I will use window putty as I'd be worried about the water simply washing it away. I think I'd rather use something that is specifically meant for use on boats below the water...

Putty is the thing to use on boats. Traditionally mixed with extra linseed oil to make it softer and with white lead or red lead powder as a preservative. Add grease or engine oil to keep it from drying out. 40 years ago I made extensive repairs to an 18ft dayboat and was introduced to the finer points of mixing putty by the boatwright. Every seam of my 1947, re-planked in 1970, Dutch sloop is payed with red lead putty. The boatyards aren't keen to use it any more because of the risks that arise from inhaling lead oxide dusts, although a little bit doesn't seem to have done me any harm.

The last thing you want to do with your hull is to fill the seams with anything permanent that can't squeeze out. If you do you'll strain every fastening in the hull as the planks soak up - the forces generated by swelling wood can be enormous. My boat had been out of the water for three years when I got it. One of the boards soaked up to be wider than it had been when fitted. It fractured 8 oak timbers that are a bit over 3/4 inches square - literally just pulled them apart through the nail holes.

Your boat will soak up water like a sponge. Either stop it from doing so by epoxying it all over, inside and out (probably a sin) or get it soaked up by getting it in the water. If you can find somewhere soft and muddy to do so where it can come to no harm, that's the place to do it. Salt water is preferable. If you are inland you'll have to accept fresh, in which case get it soaked and then get the water out again and dry it out enough to paint. The moisture content in the wood won't vanish back to current levels in the few weeks it takes for the water from the immersion to dry off. Before you paint it you can check all the fastenings. The ones in the plank edges, in particular, need to be checked as they are an essential part of clinker construction. Hardening up copper nails is not difficult, but needs two people. The technique depends on whether the nails are clenched (bent over at the end) or riveted using roves (a copper washer on the inside).
 
I regret that I will have to withdraw my offer of 3 bots of single malt as I have rather a lot on my plate at the moment.
Probably the right decision with your cercs and knowledge, but brownie points for a good try.
Lakesailer sold his clinker dinghy quite well at 1600GPB. OK, ready to go, but not so much history. Must be a classic keen guy waiting for this.
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What a shame, it'd be a grand adventure, I've recently started myself and I've been following your thread, but I know where you're coming from cause I've taken on a biger task than I thought I was in for, and many people are telling me to fibreglass it or give up but I'm hanging in there, can't figure out how to post pics here though, if you'd chuck it on a boat to NZ I could make an offer ;)
 
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