Bleeding screw!!

[down...2 greens]

Hi all,

I inherited a bleed screw on the secondary fuel filter of my VP 2001 which showed signs of having had its threads damaged (probably overtightened) in the past. After the latest filter change it seems to have finally succumbed - it can no longer be tightened properly and there's a constant seep of fuel. The engine runs fine but the puddle of diesel in the bilge isn't ideal!

Does anyone know the easiest way out of this pickle? I'm hoping it won't involve replacement of the entire filter head...

Thanks as always.

 

[garymalmgren]

Probably it is the copper washer that is gone and not the screw.
Measure the washer and buy 2 or 3 of them. NOT Volvo parts!!!!!!
They can be re annealed but that one looks squashed.
https://www.amazon.com/copper-washers/s?k=copper+washers


Gary

 

[arc1]

I bought a replacement bleed screw and washer from Volvo (sheared it in a fit of ham fisted annoyance!) and it wasn't one of the most outrageously priced items. Still extortionate for a screw and washer but less than 20 quid for any Volvo part seems to be a result.

 

[[70521]]

I bought a replacement bleed screw and washer from Volvo (sheared it in a fit of ham fisted annoyance!) and it wasn't one of the most outrageously priced items. Still extortionate for a screw and washer but less than 20 quid for any Volvo part seems to be a result.

Do you know the part number or size? I need to replace mine at some point in time.

 

[johnalison]

When it happened to me on my 2030 it was the thread on the filter housing that had stripped. I had to replace the filter. It happened in Warnemunde where I went to the engineer in the town and the young man said that he had one in stock but he was sorry that he would be unable to come and fit it until - after lunch.

 

[pandos]

It's a Bosch filter head so if the thread is damaged probably available from Non Volvo places much cheaper...

 

[dankilb]

Any reason you can’t shove any suitably sized bolt/machine screw in there? Presumably it’s a standard thread? Or if not, tap it to the nearest metric equivalent. Or am I missing an all additional feature?

 

[down...2 greens]

Thanks everybody. Is there an easy way to be sure if the problem is the washer, the filter housing thread or the bolt thread?

 

[Poignard]

Thanks everybody. Is there an easy way to be sure if the problem is the washer, the filter housing thread or the bolt thread?

Examination. But if the thread doesn't hold it's most likely the female thread in the housing, assuming that is the softer metal.

 

[Seashoreman]

Thanks everybody. Is there an easy way to be sure if the problem is the washer, the filter housing thread or the bolt thread?

When you say it cant be tightened could you explain? Does it keep turning or does the screwdriver come out of the slot?
If it cant be tightened then you need to remove it and examine the thread. If the thread on the bleed bolt is undamaged then it
is a problem with the internal thread in the housing.
More details would help.

 

[ithet]

I had the thread strip on a VP2002 (same housing). The repair was to fit a helicoil. I was also advised to bleed via the larger screw - which I seem to remember actually is what the manual shows if you look carefully at the illustration.

 

[Laysula]

If the thread has gone then as ithet says a helicoil is the answer. Most motor workshops should be able to do it for you. Best to replace the washer at the same time.

 

[down...2 greens]

When you say it cant be tightened could you explain? Does it keep turning or does the screwdriver come out of the slot?

Sorry, I wasn't very clear there. The screw physically turns easily enough, but doesn't tighten very much as it does so. The resistance increases up to a point (but still feeling less than tight, and not quite enough to seal it properly) then further rotation of the screw past that point just makes it looser again.

If the thread has gone then as ithet says a helicoil is the answer. Most motor workshops should be able to do it for you.

Ahhh... I was hoping something could be done in situ without having to dismantle the beast!

 

[Laysula]

Sorry, I wasn't very clear there. The screw physically turns easily enough, but doesn't tighten very much as it does so. The resistance increases up to a point (but still feeling less than tight, and not quite enough to seal it properly) then further rotation of the screw past that point just makes it looser again.



Ahhh... I was hoping something could be done in situ without having to dismantle the beast!

No. It's got to come off so you can clean out any swarf from the helicoil. You will also need to anneal or replace the other copper washers on the banjo joints.

 

[arc1]

Part numbers were: 243487 hollow screw (£8.28). 957170 gasket x2 (£1.68ea). 957178 gasket x2 (£0.96 ea). Only one of the gasket part numbers is what you need for the bleed screw - I replaced the ones for the fuel line into the filter at same time as they were leaking slightly. If you are taking the filter off at all then worth replacing these as well. Can't remember which ones are which as my diagrams onboard and I'm stuck at home with the Covid!

 

[QBhoy]

Any reason you can’t shove any suitably sized bolt/machine screw in there? Presumably it’s a standard thread? Or if not, tap it to the nearest metric equivalent. Or am I missing an all additional feature?

They usually have a hollow core to them with an exit under the bolt head. Like a banjo bolt.

 

[ithet]

Ahhh... I was hoping something could be done in situ without having to dismantle the beast!

It did not take much to remove the filter housing. I had it done in St Peter Port after the engine would not start. Whole job about two hours labour, including taking away to workshop. No parts charge as he said the helicoil was too little cost to bother about.

 

[down...2 greens]

Thanks everybody - so it's sounding more like damage to the threads on the housing itself? (Though I suppose the screw could also be kaput!)

Part numbers were: 243487 hollow screw (£8.28). 957170 gasket x2 (£1.68ea). 957178 gasket x2 (£0.96 ea). Only one of the gasket part numbers is what you need for the bleed screw - I replaced the ones for the fuel line into the filter at same time as they were leaking slightly.

Thanks for that info too. Those gaskets are separate from the copper washers, is that correct?

 

[arc1]

Thanks for that info too. Those gaskets are separate from the copper washers, is that correct?

Gaskets are the copper washers. Just can't remember which of the two is the one for the bleed screw.

 

[VicS]

Part numbers were: 243487 hollow screw (£8.28). 957170 gasket x2 (£1.68ea). 957178 gasket x2 (£0.96 ea). Only one of the gasket part numbers is what you need for the bleed screw - I replaced the ones for the fuel line into the filter at same time as they were leaking slightly. If you are taking the filter off at all then worth replacing these as well. Can't remember which ones are which as my diagrams onboard and I'm stuck at home with the Covid!

Thanks everybody - so it's sounding more like damage to the threads on the housing itself? (Though I suppose the screw could also be kaput!)

Thanks for that info too. Those gaskets are separate from the copper washers, is that correct?

Gaskets are the copper washers. Just can't remember which of the two is the one for the bleed screw.

Those part numbers do not appear to be those for the bleed screw, and its gasket, on the fuel filter.
I think they maybe for a banjo bolt and gaskets {copper washers} else where on the system.

If the bled screw has a copper washer as a gasket it will need annealing from time to time or will will become increasingly difficult to make fuel tight and eventually lead to the thread being stripped.


See here for the page in the parts list for the fuel filter:- Volvo Penta parts and accessories - MarinePartsEurope.com

.