Blakes seacock woes

eddystone

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It's probably advancing years but it seems to get harder each year to get the bolts off and back on again. If you have these, you'll know one needs two hands, to hold the nut whilst undoing the nut or vice versa. Two of them are in lockers where it's impossible to get both hands in - the two for the heads aren't much better as there is no clearance round the nuts. I wondered whether there is a tool that you can lock onto a nut (the limited clearance will stop the handle turning) so that you can undo the bolt head single-handed?

I like to see at least a couple of threads of the end of the nut emerging from the bolt but on a couple of these the end of the bolt is recessed in the bolt - can't get it any tighter or the handle won't budge; strangely, I find if one hold the head of the bolt and turns the nut, it seizes.

Still, unlike ball valves, at least one can see the condition of the barrel.
 
Hello Eddy

I am not exactly sure of your problem but I've found a "Self Gripping mole" very useful for such situations.

.https://www.sitebox.ltd.uk/self-gripping-adjustable-wrench-mole-grips-ows2m10

I suppose the ring spanner is of no use because of lack of clearance?

Clive

I can get a ring spanner round the head of the nut on some of them if I turn the handle but of course if i get it round the nut, being upside down it falls off. I can't seem to find space for molegrips; i am now thinking of trying blue tack to stop the spanner falling off.
 
A short ring spanner held on by finger tips and a long reach socket extension on the top bolt should do it. they shouldn't be too tight anyway.
 
Im pretty sure the bolts through the keep plate are threaded into the valve body and the nuts on the backside are merely a means of locking them up when you get the valve working as freely as you would like so they don't need to be overly tight ,they'll lock themselves against the valve body with the minimum of pressure
 
Im pretty sure the bolts through the keep plate are threaded into the valve body and the nuts on the backside are merely a means of locking them up when you get the valve working as freely as you would like so they don't need to be overly tight ,they'll lock themselves against the valve body with the minimum of pressure

So the main thing stopping the keep plate jumping off is the bolts threading into the body and as long as they have some grip on the nut it should be alright- that's re-assuring?

BTW I've always wondered if a seacock fails, exactly how it fails - it seems to me unlikely to leave a convenient hole one can bang a plug into.
 
Yes that's correct and it allows you to adjust the tension on the keep plate in small amounts by tightening /loosening the bolts untill you get the seacock working as it should then nip up the nuts,not ignoring the fact they need regreasing occasionally but certainly on my boat they are opened and closed every weekend of the year and give very little trouble
 
So the main thing stopping the keep plate jumping off is the bolts threading into the body and as long as they have some grip on the nut it should be alright- that's re-assuring?

BTW I've always wondered if a seacock fails, exactly how it fails - it seems to me unlikely to leave a convenient hole one can bang a plug into.

As others say, finger tight is sufficient. My Blakes discharge seacock is very difficult to access, no possibility to get a spanner on the nuts.

If by failure you mean the cone coming out, the wooden plugs sold by every chandler include one that is a good fit. Just push it in, if you clout it you will never get it out. I have taken the cone out of mine afloat to grease it, the wooden plug is a good substitute.
 
I installed two brand new Blakes for the cockpit drains (cheaper than new skin fittings, seacock, and hose tail combo) and the lock nuts fit below the keeper plate. So a bit of a release on the lock nut, and then unscrew the bolts from the fixed part of the seacock
 
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