Bl@@dy bolts are stuck

[Resolution]

The long s/s bolts that hold my compass binnacle base on to the steering pedestal are corroded stuck tight. I guess that the steering pedestal is aluminium and the engineer who replaced the bolts last year did not use duralac or similar. The bolt heads are Philips cross heads and I am fearful of mullering them. When I attack them with the biggest screwdriver that fits I can feel the bolt starting to twist and it feels like it wil shear before the threaded bit starts to unwind. I have tried dribbling Plusgas down but not sure it is reaching the corroded threads.
Anyone got any good ideas how to shift the bloody things?

 

[sailorman]

The long s/s bolts that hold my compass binnacle base on to the steering pedestal are corroded stuck tight. I guess that the steering pedestal is aluminium and the engineer who replaced the bolts last year did not use duralac or similar. The bolt heads are Philips cross heads and I am fearful of mullering them. When I attack them with the biggest screwdriver that fits I can feel the bolt starting to twist and it feels like it wil shear before the threaded bit starts to unwind. I have tried dribbling Plusgas down but not sure it is reaching the corroded threads.
Anyone got any good ideas how to shift the bloody things?

Ask your "professional engineer".
I fear you will wring then off & have to attempt re tapping

 

[superheat6k]

If you can apply heat then get as hot as possible, but you will need to get it hot enough to damage paint to be effective.

Then strike hard via an impact driver, but initially do not turn it either way - just jarr the threads loose, then after a couple of sharp blows turn the driver to undo and strike further. The bolt may shear, but thats what it was going to do anyway.

 

[Martin_J]

If it is anything like my Whitlock pedestal.. not fun.

Three of the four of mine sheered where the bolts went into the aluminium.

Once sheared (and yes, I did use a penetrating fluid.. and hot water.. ) I found the aluminium was rather thin...

See sequence of photos below showing my repair. It was possible to drill out the bolts.. insert new threads (similar to helicoils) and then the new bolts went back in a treat..

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=D57B857B59D08B86%211804

Be aware.. The pedestal is very thin and I would NOT recommend drilling out the remaining bolts if you have not had much previous practice. One slip of the drill and it could find it's way through the aluminium rather quickly..

I must remember to remove and re-grease them regularly now...

 

[ReefMagnet]

Just went through a similar exercise with a cleat with about 2" of depth of corrosion. Tried everything including soaking in penetrating liquid and no go. Heated the whole contraption to about 400 deg C with an oxy torch and the bolts then screwed out with little drama (including the one's sheared in previous attempts!).

Having said that, an impact driver will be less likely to gall the philips slot and could work if the bonding strength of the corrosion is less than the force required to shear off the screw head.

 

[Resolution]

Thanks Martin J and ReefMagnet. Difficult to heat without causing damage to the painted finish of the pedestal, so it looks like the impact driver for preference. But first an enquiry to Edson, USA, who say in their manual they would be pleased to answer any questions.

 

[colhel]

A simple solution that often works is to tighten the bolts then undo them

 

[Resolution]

Have received a prompt and helpful reply from the steering system manufacturer, Edson:

Thank you for your inquiry. I would be glad to help. First, I would recommend using a penetrating oil. In the States, we have a product called PB Blaster that works great, not sure if you have that there. However, any penetrating oil will work (just not WD-40, that is not a penetrating oil). This will need time to work (typically overnight) and ideally get down to where the bolts meet the pedestal. When you are ready to try removing the bolts, use an impact driver, as this will also help shake the bolts loose.

Still no luck? Time for plan B. You will want to drill the heads off the bolts. The cross head will help to center the bit. Once the heads are drilled off, you can remove the compass and engine control. At this point you have access to the full threaded stud of the bolt. Add more penetrating oil and let it work. Next, grab the base of the bolt with a pair of vice grips and it will twist out of the pedestal.

We do have replacement bolts if it comes down to drilling the existing ones out. As you hinted, if these fasteners are not removed on a regular basis for maintenance, they can freeze up in a saltwater environment. However, this can be avoided by isolating them with Tef-Gel. If I can help any further, please let me know.


Sincerely,

Adam Cove
International Marketing Manager

 

[Norman_E]

Very good advice from Edson. Don't force the bolts and risk them sheering off at the point where they enter the aluminium. It is far better to drill off the heads leaving plenty to grip with a Mole wrench. Once the penetrating oil has been applied and allowed to soak in, work the bolts back and forth with the Mole wrench to free them.

 

[Neil]

Have received a prompt and helpful reply from the steering system manufacturer, Edson:

However, this can be avoided by isolating them with Tef-Gel. If I can help any further, please let me know.


Sincerely,

Adam Cove
International Marketing Manager

Which begs the question, why didn't they use a thread sealer during manufacture?

 

[Resolution]

Which begs the question, why didn't they use a thread sealer during manufacture?

Well the boat is ten years old now. The bolts came out OK three years ago when I last serviced the steering bits - and used Duralac on reassembly. But maybe not enough , or maybe one should re-service every year as the Edson manual says!

 

[charles_reed]

If you can apply heat then get as hot as possible, but you will need to get it hot enough to damage paint to be effective.

Then strike hard via an impact driver, but initially do not turn it either way - just jarr the threads loose, then after a couple of sharp blows turn the driver to undo and strike further. The bolt may shear, but thats what it was going to do anyway.

The closest you'll get to workable advice is above.
Fluids can't get past the hydrated Al oxides.
At least the impact driver will shear off the heads and you can probably get the pedestal off. If the thread is into alloy, rather than through the plain hole in the aluminium pedestal I'd seriously consider leaving it alone, because drilling out SS from aluminium really needs to be done under controlled workshop conditions, not with a hand-drill.

 

[Resolution]

The closest you'll get to workable advice is above.
Fluids can't get past the hydrated Al oxides.
.

Interesting. Does that mean that Plusgas will have no effect on the corroded parts?