Bit of a problem with the diverter valves on the boat

lanerboy

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Hi All

As you probably know I have just replaced all the toilet and holding tank pipe work due to a terrible smell, well the good news is the smell has now gone but I still have a small problem. When I removed the old pipes they were all difficult to get off the old fittings etc etc EXCEPT where they fitted onto the whale 3 way diverter valve, when I took the old pipes off the valves they just pulled off with very little effort.

These are the valves I am talking about which are OE fitment on my phantom 40

Whale_Valve_Diverter_zps625a8dd2.jpg


So once I had fitted all the new pipes I tried to fit the last 6 ends onto the existing valves but no matter how hard I tried I could not get the new pipe to stay on the diverter valves they literally just fell of if I turned my back even with 2 jubilee clips on as it was before.

I think it has something to do with the new pipe I have used as this has a steel coil built into it which is making it difficult to fit onto the valves. I have fitted it onto all the other fittings with no problem at all it is just where it goes onto the valves

This is the pipe I have fitted to replace the old stuff

pipe_zps0c31ccf3.png


So I have now purchased 2 new valves made by Jabsco same as in the picture below

jabsodiverter_zpsec2a0a26.jpg


I have bought these as they have a ribbed section on the part that fits into the pipe so I am hoping I can hold the new pipe onto these new valves with the help of the ribbed design

Just wondered if anyone else has ever had this problem as it is a bit worrying due to the fact that if it falls off when I am not on board then obviously the boat could sink as the sea cocks would be open

All suggestions much appreciated yet again

cheers shawn
 
You need to clean the inside of the pipe with thinners to remove the greasey film, then abrade with sand paper then they should stay on
 
their spec shows for a 38mm internal dia hose, which looks like the hose you have bought. Have you put a micrometer across the ends just to see if someone has sanded them down to make the previous hose fit easily ?


(I like a good conspiracy theory rather than a technical solution such as using butyl rubber tape (non-setting, flexible format stuff)
 
You need to clean the inside of the pipe with thinners to remove the greasey film, then abrade with sand paper then they should stay on

yes that is an idea but I still think by having 2 very very tight jubilee clips trying to hold the pipe on that this should have kept them in place but I will try what you have said for sure before I fit the new valves
 
yes that is an idea but I still think by having 2 very very tight jubilee clips trying to hold the pipe on that this should have kept them in place but I will try what you have said for sure before I fit the new valves

You have same problem with some exhaust pipe as well, feel inside pipe before fitting and see if it feels greasy, no matter how tight you get it all it wants to do is slip off, with the old white plastic its the other way round as you have to heat to get it on then even without a clip you struggle to remove
 
Shawn I used the other brand of butyl pipe and this wasn't a problem. I would fit a pipe anchor clip to bulkhead with screws, quite close to the valve. Or two. Then clip the pipe to these with cable ties. Then the pipe can't move back off the valve. And all the other suggestions like acetone clean and abrade

Ref your boat sink comment these valves must be above waterline if possible and the pipe must be clipped so it cannot drop below waterline if the jubilee clip joints were ever to fail. I still think an elec sea cock interfaced to the black tank pump is money well spent and always fit this. It eliminates the sinking risk. Manual sea cock is no good because you'd take short cut and not use it

Good to hear the smell has gone
 
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I would fit a pipe anchor clip to bulkhead with screws, quite close to the valve. Or two. Then clip the pipe to these with cable ties.

Ref your boat sink comment these valves must be above waterline if possible and the pipe must be clipped so it cannot drop below waterline if the jubilee clip joints were ever to fail.


John are these what you mean by pipe anchors

mount_zps521e410b.jpg


I have fitted the diverter valves back in the same position that they left the fairline factory so I would think they are above sea level then "just about"

cheers shawn
 
Yes exactly that thing Shawn, screwed to bulkhead. A cable tie around the vetus piping done up tight should grip the pipe effectively. That thing, in white, is fairline oem
 
I'm sure this is no help to the OP, but Jacsco make another similar diverter valve (Lockable Y Diverter), which has much better hose ends. The hose ends can rotate, and can easily be taken off for any valve maintenance. (yeuch)
 
The new Jabsco diverter valves ard serrated and will grip the hose with the clip done up tight. However the hose spigots are shorter than the originals which make it difficult to get 2 clips on. Although always 'best practice' to double clip all hose joints you will find that the tightened clip will mould the hose into the serrations to ensure a secure connection. Always use marine grade stainless steel clips on all hose connections. In over 50 years of boatbuilding I have not come across a single case of stainless steel clips failing. Zinc plated clips are another matter and their failing have been a good source of income over the years for this poor soul.
 
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