Binoculars

My Fujinon Mariner are 'auto-focus', except that they don't 'auto' anything. Auto-focus just means that they have a very long depth of field so, in most circumstances, there is no need to focus them.
There is focal adjustment on each eyepiece so that they will accommodate differences between eyes.
The depth of field starts too far away to pick them up and see the masthead, for example, but you can adjust both eyepieces to focus on closer targets.
They are very good at night, in fact I probably use them more at night than in daytime because my night vision is rather poor.

If you get the chance try a pair, I think you would be surprised.
I think the phrase is usually 'fixed focus'. I believe that there is some compromise on quality and so are not found on expensive models. I tried one once in a shop, Plastimo I think, and found them quite satisfactory when looking out into the street. They are not ideal but might suit some crews, though I haven't seen a pair around for a while.
 
"Auto Focus" merely means that they are set to the "hyper focal distance" which is the focus which gives the greatest depth of field, as Aloah2 says This will be from around 20ft to infinity. This distance was often marked on camera lenses to give a snapshot focus, but It is no good if you want to look at a bird of the feathered veriety near to you, but fine for everything else.

This has an advantage as unless you have very expensive internal focusing binoculars, then the body of focusing binocular has to move in and out to give the desired focus. This has a bellows effect which will in time draw dirt and moisture into the body of the binocular degrading the image.

So the fixed "auto focus" can be made dirt and waterproof much more easily and maintain that state for longer. In addittion you do not have to fumble with cold, wet and gloved hands to set the focus, making it easier to make an observation. This doesn't mean they have to be cheap, some may be but some are very good and offer good value.
 
I went to SIBS this year with the express purpose of finding a good pair, having bought from Monk in the past, but was disappointed. The one stand with lots of pairs mainly had 8x, with very little choice of 7x. Living in Ireland there's one decent binoc shop in Dublin - and same again, very few 7x.

Oh come on. Can you really tell the difference between 7x50 and 8x50 using your own unassisted eyesight?

We bought our last set of (birding) Opticron bins from the Chichester branch of the London Camera Exchange. Not only did they have a wide variety of different strengths and qualities to look at but their front door opens out onto a brick wall that recedes between about 50m to 300m. Trying their bins on the lines of mortar in this wall soon told me I should be spending money on Leica or Swarovski rather than the £40 a pair bins at SIBS.

Seriously, some of their top brand bins were fabulous (light, clear, sharp, etc) and an enormous contrast to 'average' bins but I certainly couldn't tell the difference between 7x50 and 8x50.
 
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I sometimes have time to use in Chi so I might look up the LCE to try out some Steiner so many thanks Langstone for info. I was wondering if there’s a lot of difference between various models and if to get a pair with a compass? Ie am Worth a commander or navigator for example?
 
Oh come on. Can you really tell the difference between 7x50 and 8x50 using your own unassisted eyesight?

I've found 7x to be a) brighter and b) easier to hold steady on a moving boat, which is why I'm looking for 7x. I had a really handy pair of 7x24 (I think, about that size anyway) and to me they were brighter than any 8x equivalent I had seen. Monk Optics. They got nicked!
 
I've found 7x to be a) brighter and b) easier to hold steady on a moving boat, which is why I'm looking for 7x. I had a really handy pair of 7x24 (I think, about that size anyway) and to me they were brighter than any 8x equivalent I had seen. Monk Optics. They got nicked!

I agree, 7x50 are easier to hold steady in a moving boat, the large exit pupil assists in this, also you will really see the difference in low light levels and especially at night.
 
I agree, 7x50 are easier to hold steady in a moving boat, the large exit pupil assists in this, also you will really see the difference in low light levels and especially at night.
I may be wrong, but I assume that 7x50s are 8/7x brighter than 8x50s, if not, then approximately so. In bright daylight this may not be apparent to younger people because their pupils will contract to accomodate the bright light since the dilated pupil is about the same as the 7.1mm of the 7x50s. Some older people may gain some advantage from the larger exit pupil in moderate light if they have a central cataract, when confining the image to the centre of the lens will cause it to be degraded.
 
I may be wrong, but I assume that 7x50s are 8/7x brighter than 8x50s, if not, then approximately so. In bright daylight this may not be apparent to younger people because their pupils will contract to accomodate the bright light since the dilated pupil is about the same as the 7.1mm of the 7x50s. Some older people may gain some advantage from the larger exit pupil in moderate light if they have a central cataract, when confining the image to the centre of the lens will cause it to be degraded.

The exit pupil of the 7x50 is approximately 7.1 mm which as you say equates with the dilated human pupil, the 8x50 exit pupil is about 6.25mm, the larger exit pupil means that the eye doesn't have to be so aligned with the optical axis of the binoculars resulting in easier viewing from a moving platform, but it is in low light levels and especially at night this extra size of exit pupil comes into play and even a modest pair of 7x50's will out perform even the luxury 8x50, it's straightforward physics.
 
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