Beta raw water inlet size

[Pye_End]

Yes. Most of my coolant comes out from the drain plug. No idea if there is any left in any of the block. Little bit left in bottom of h/e which is always worth a sponge and spring clean.

So yes, it does sound as though you still have a blockage.

For the tap/elbow there was a change so not sure if yours will be the same as mine. On mine, if you take off the engine mount (just unbolt it from the block and engine bed so it keeps the alignment in tact), then the drain bend can be unscrewed off for better access.

You might be able to put an oil extractor pump pipe on the on the drain to give the system a bit of encouragement to drain past a blockage and clear it. It didn't help me but it might help you.

 

[syvictoria]

Beta are now suggesting that we need an expansion tank mounted on the thermostat housing, due to the angle of installation of the engine (about 15 degrees, right on the limit). Am I right in my understanding that every time we stop the engine and the system cools and depressurises, the thermostat housing (being the highest point in our system) will end up at least partially dry and therefore cause problems (hot spot) when the system is next heated/re-pressurised, or am I barking up completely the wrong tree? We could, I suppose, bleed the thermostat housing every time we start the engine, but that's not really a very practical solution!

On that basis, can anyone recommend a super small expansion tank!? My Fiat Panda one is quite small, but something slightly smaller still would be even better.

 

[JumbleDuck]

On that basis, can anyone recommend a super small expansion tank!? My Fiat Panda one is quite small, but something slightly smaller still would be even better.

Can't Beta supply one? My Nanni 2.14 has a titchy expansion tank, though it caused a lot of problems because I originally had one of a batch of leaking two-part plastic ones.

 

[syvictoria]

Can't Beta supply one? My Nanni 2.14 has a titchy expansion tank, though it caused a lot of problems because I originally had one of a batch of leaking two-part plastic ones.

Beta do do one, but it's reported (and looks in the pictures) to be quite large. I understand that it's actually a Peugeot item.

 

[Pye_End]

What did Beta say about not being able to drain all the coolant out of the drain tap/plug?

Whilst several on here have said an expansion tank has solved overheating issues, it would be handy to be sure that there is no blockage.

 

[syvictoria]

What did Beta say about not being able to drain all the coolant out of the drain tap/plug?

Regretfully, not a lot, now that they have decided that a expansion tank is the solution. We've had the freshwater pump apart this afternoon - the last part that we hadn't previously dismantled - and that was full of sediment too. The route from h/ex to pump to thermostat and back to h/ex is now absolutely clear, and the thermostat to pump to drain tap is clear. There must be a separate pipe/route from h/ex to drain tap (otherwise how could this drain as the front hose (to pump) goes partially uphill and the short hose to the thermostat is at the top of the h/ex not bottom) but how do you access it to clean it?

 

[Rich T]

Beta are now suggesting that we need an expansion tank mounted on the thermostat housing, due to the angle of installation of the engine (about 15 degrees, right on the limit). Am I right in my understanding that every time we stop the engine and the system cools and depressurises, the thermostat housing (being the highest point in our system) will end up at least partially dry and therefore cause problems (hot spot) when the system is next heated/re-pressurised, or am I barking up completely the wrong tree? We could, I suppose, bleed the thermostat housing every time we start the engine, but that's not really a very practical solution!

On that basis, can anyone recommend a super small expansion tank!? My Fiat Panda one is quite small, but something slightly smaller still would be even better.

My Beta always lost a small amount of coolant once it had cooled down, the liquid being expelled via the small pipe below the header tank cap. The same arrangement as the majority of cars. I fitted a small expansion tank from, I think, a Toyota Starlet, obtained many moons ago from a breaker. (Yep know Starlets are probably nearly collector item now). About 3/4 full it would hold about half a litre. Unlike most tanks you see now it is not moulded to a specific shape, it looks like a Tetra milk carton. But if nothing forthcoming from breakers etc I am sure there are suitable ones online. It is only a plastic container ! But then perhaps Beta do one as well....

 

[Ohlin Karcher]

An expansion tank is now something to consider adding to my new Beta 43 installation, so thanks!

 

[syvictoria]

An expansion tank is now something to consider adding to my new Beta 43 installation, so thanks!

Glad to have helped! However, in our case, and not wishing to put the cart before the horse and all that, we are now cautiously optimistic that our problem may have been solved by cleared the freshwater pump of sediment.... we shall see in due course, but for the first time since installing, our h/ex has just taken the full 3.25L and the thermostat housing has back filled as a consequence... that's progress! We'll see about draining tomorrow and I will report back. Beta had said that next to nothing ever goes wrong with the pumps and hence it had been ignored to date.

Many, many thanks to all the contributors to this thread. This forum is fab!

 

[Pagetslady]

I installed my beta 35 in 2013 myself, first trip out heat alarm went off, I anchored and phoned beta told him that the engine had pumped all the fresh water out of the system, he explained that if the red paint had not turned black the engine has suffered no harm, the problem he thought would be that the header cap and spigot would be one of a batch of faulty ones I managed to sail back into the marina, there was no wind when this happened hence I was motoring, I had to wait for the lock gate to open by the then there was sufficient wind to sail the couple of miles home. Beta sent me the new parts with complementary oil and fuel filters a couple of drive belts I fitted the parts all seemed ok but it still got very hot if I pushed it hard for long, one of the Beta fitters who came to replace my gearbox suggest I try a 10 blade impeller in the raw
water pump I forgot to mention that after the first over heating I fitted a temperature gauge from Beta I paid for this.
If anything the engine runs a little under the recommended temp but it has done 600 hrs now and runs and starts well.
A lot of these hours have been testing, overheating and gearbox problem. The gearbox was replaced by Beta free of charge after 300 hrs due to whining noise being excessive engineer took a sample of the oil had it analyzed, the verdict came back gearbox kn****rd so was replaced with a new one.
Mike

 

[syvictoria]

Well, we successfully drained the best part of 2L - yes, 2L - via the drain tap this morning! Hopefully that's the end of the dreaded alarm... at least for the time being! Thanks again everyone.

 

[AndrewB]

Hi. Beta Marine used to state that a 1 inch raw water inlet was required to ensure sufficient throughput (although I know some people get away with smaller). The current manual now states that for Beta 10-38, the Seacock Inlet/Seawater Engine Pump Hose I.D minimum is 19 mm. Furthermore, the manual goes on to quote that the sea water flow should be 13 - 14 litres/minute minimum at 1,500 rpm, whereas the older manuals stated 15 L/min.

It seems logical to match the inlet hose I/D, and hence the inlet O/D, to the O/D of the connection point on the engine, i.e. at the impeller housing. On my Beta 35 (very similar to a 38), that's 22mm, or ⅞".

My manual states that the sea-water flow should be 18 litres/min at 1500 rpm. I've roughly checked this with the bucket test.