Beta control panel

Lutra

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Hi all, I’ve got a problem with my Beta 16 AVB control panel.

As soon as I turn the battery isolater switch on, the alarm sounds, green light, battery and oil lights illuminate, tachometer illuminates. When I put in the key, it makes no difference.

When I turn key to run, alarm gets louder, battery and oil light get brighter. Green light and tachometer light go off

When I turn key to start, engine starts and runs ok. All red lights go off. Green light and tachometer stay off. Engine is charging at14.4v.

Engine stops as usual with the button. After stop green light comes on and alarm sounds.

I’ve checked wiring harness 11 pin connector and also wires and plug at alternator look ok too.

I’m guessing might need to check panel wiring, relays maybe? Grateful for any suggestions

Thanks
 
Presumably the green light and others remain on after you stop the engine and turn off the key switch?

I would start with the wiring diagram for the panel and check the relay as I recall that it's energised by the key switch. Should be clear from a multimeter if it's working.
 
Hi all, I’ve got a problem with my Beta 16 AVB control panel.

As soon as I turn the battery isolater switch on, the alarm sounds, green light, battery and oil lights illuminate, tachometer illuminates. When I put in the key, it makes no difference.

When I turn key to run, alarm gets louder, battery and oil light get brighter. Green light and tachometer light go off

When I turn key to start, engine starts and runs ok. All red lights go off. Green light and tachometer stay off. Engine is charging at14.4v.

Engine stops as usual with the button. After stop green light comes on and alarm sounds.

I’ve checked wiring harness 11 pin connector and also wires and plug at alternator look ok too.

I’m guessing might need to check panel wiring, relays maybe? Grateful for any suggestions

Thanks
There was recently a thread about a similar problem with a VP panel which turned out to be caused by an alternator fault.

Volvo Penta 2000 series panel - strange behaviour

I don't see how this would cause the behaviour of the green light on the Beta panel though but brain not fully functional at this time of the morning.
 
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When the battery isolator is closed it should present the 12V to the engine control panel but only as far as the key switch (usually the terminal marked 30 on a Beta panel). Only when the key is turned to the on position should the indicators etc. be seeing 12V. I would suspect a fault in the ignition switch. With the isolator off I think I'd check for continuity between the 30 terminal and the AC terminal (instruments, panel lights etc) and it should show an open circuit.

That said I agree with VicS that the behaviour of the green light is anomalous and probably indicative of some other problem.
 
There are no relays in the wiring of the ABV panel, as far as I can see.
From the symptoms, my guess would be that there has been some water ingress into the key switch, making contact where non should be.
 
Thanks everyone for useful and informative replies. Following some suggestions from ever-helpful people at Beta I did some further tests.

Removed power wire to panel (from terminal 30). On opening isolater switch alarm sounded and green light illuminated. I think this more or less eliminates a panel fault. Reconnected power wire.

Removed 3 pin plug from rear of alternator (excitation, green light and tachometer?). Opened isolater switch, and no green light. Only oil pressure light on and alarm sounding. I’m guessing this means the issue is in the alternator, but not sure what to do next. Some component in there failed maybe? It is still charging ok.
 
Thanks everyone for useful and informative replies. Following some suggestions from ever-helpful people at Beta I did some further tests.

Removed power wire to panel (from terminal 30). On opening isolater switch alarm sounded and green light illuminated. I think this more or less eliminates a panel fault. Reconnected power wire.

Removed 3 pin plug from rear of alternator (excitation, green light and tachometer?). Opened isolater switch, and no green light. Only oil pressure light on and alarm sounding. I’m guessing this means the issue is in the alternator, but not sure what to do next. Some component in there failed maybe? It is still charging ok.
Do you really mean on opening the isolator? Surely you mean on closing it. With the isolator open everything should be dead

One of the positive diodes short circuited in the main rectifier will I think cause most of the symptoms you observe except for the green light and the tacho light going out when the key is turned to the run position. Both ought to come on at full brightness.

The behavior of the green light and tacho light is the thing I cannot explain.

I think I would check out the key switch as suggested earlier in the thread. Also check the negative connection to the panel.
Then get the alternator checked as was done in the thread about the similar fault with a VP engine and panel.
 
If the shorted diode in the alternator is on the phase that the tacho connects to that would explain it. Fix the alternator.
That's only the signal connection. It might affect the tacho reading but I don't think it will affect the tacho light or the green "power on" light.
 
Now sorted. As a few people said to me, it'll be something simple. And indeed it was. The engineer who had fitted a new heat exchanger tank had connected the panel earth wire to the +ve terminal of the starter motor rather than to the engine earth terminal. I should have worked it out sooner, but he told me that he had checked all the connections that he had remade and all was OK. I suppose in his defence I would note that the black earth wire had been sprayed red when the engine was painted and so didn't look like an earth wire. The guy at Beta was clear the symptoms sounded like reversed polarity somewhere and there weren't too many places to check.

Thanks to everyone for help and comments.
 
Now sorted. As a few people said to me, it'll be something simple. And indeed it was. The engineer who had fitted a new heat exchanger tank had connected the panel earth wire to the +ve terminal of the starter motor rather than to the engine earth terminal. I should have worked it out sooner, but he told me that he had checked all the connections that he had remade and all was OK. I suppose in his defence I would note that the black earth wire had been sprayed red when the engine was painted and so didn't look like an earth wire. The guy at Beta was clear the symptoms sounded like reversed polarity somewhere and there weren't too many places to check.

Thanks to everyone for help and comments.
Thanks for letting us know the reason.
It explains everything including the odd behaviour of the green light.
 
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