Beta 30 to replace a Volvo 2030B?

[TNLI]

My main gripe with the beta is the rubbish alternator options.

The yanmar comes with a 120amp valeo and balmar do a kit so you can just upgrade the regulator without the bother of replacing the lot.

Yanmar wiring is arguably better.

Theres little to seperate the engines themselves but the yanmar hx is better in terms of durability.

If you look in the latest Beta small engine range booklet, a 120A alternator is available as an optional extra for the Beta 30. The standard one is a 70A one. Not many owners think the durability of the Yanmar is better, do you have a link to a study. The Yanmar is probably more fuel efficient and less noisy.

 

[Praxinoscope]

Seems to me that Beta engines are a bit like Marmite, either you love them or you wouldn’t touch one with a barge pole.
I go down the positive side, don’t understand the ‘rattle’ description, most people comment on how good my engine sounds, always have had excellent service from Beta Marine, as Tranona says there is little to choose between Volvo/ Beta/ Nanni/Yanmar, but when re-engining my previous boat I found Beta to be the best option for me, 1. Beta Marine always very helpful and as others have said you talk to a real person and someone who knows what they are talking about, 2. The Kubota engine is well proven in the plant industry, Beta‘s marinisation works well and the maintenance schedule not any more excessive in comparison to others, 3. Their prices for the engine and spares are competitive, 4. The engine (Beta10) fitted into the boat easily and proved very reliable for the next 21 years that I had that boat, the only problem I ever had was a minor air leak in one of the the fuel supply joints, (Beta like most companies use crimp circlips, which I think are prone to minor failings, so changed to ‘proper’ jubilee clip with no further problem)
Current boat has a Beta 13 with about 1000 hrs, starts first turn of the key, runs smoothly, is economical and is simple to maintain. What more could one ask for?

 

[KREW2]

I can't understand why some are criticizing the Beta like it is the spawn of the Devil. If an engine starts well, gives years of reliable service it's okay in my book no matter what badge is put on it.
Beta has done this for me, and our abused club boats, and after sales service is second to none.

 

[Bobc]

My main gripe with the beta is the rubbish alternator options.

The yanmar comes with a 120amp valeo and balmar do a kit so you can just upgrade the regulator without the bother of replacing the lot.

Yanmar wiring is arguably better.

Theres little to seperate the engines themselves but the yanmar hx is better in terms of durability.

Just fit a Sterling AtoB booster. The70 amp standard alt is fine.

 

[Tranona]

I have had a Yanmar, 2 Volvos and a Nanni. All did what they were supposed to do. There are small pros and cons of each which might affect installation (Volvo filters are poorly located for example) but essentially for any given size there is little to choose between them. Beta have built their reputation on the re-engine market with good dealer/installers and options to make fitting easier. They were the first to do this nearly 30 years ago. So not surprising they have established such a strong following.

 

[gregcope]

@TNLI the engine has done 1100 hours. Always been serviced with decent parts. Decent means to spec, but not volvo…. Most services done by volvo dealers or marine mechanics.

In our ownership always run upto temp. Run at 2000+ RPM and with bursts upto 3600rpm.

 

[Tranona]

@TNLI the engine has done 1100 hours. Always been serviced with decent parts. Decent means to spec, but not volvo…. Most services done by volvo dealers or marine mechanics.

In our ownership always run upto temp. Run at 2000+ RPM and with bursts upto 3600rpm.

Low hours is not necessarily a good thing - indeed rather the opposite. My 2030 did 3500 hours in the first 7 years as a charter boat. Lots of long runs at 2400rpm, regular oil changes and nothing much else. Was running as well as new when I sold it after 14 years with just under 4000 hours. The engine itself is pretty bullet proof except perhaps for valves. The main problems are with the marinisation - water pump and heat exchanger/exhaust elbow.

Short runs and long periods idle are the worst thing for marine engines - your low hours suggest that is your pattern.

While a new engine would be nice they are little different in terms refinement and reliability than the one you have and really worth exploring having it checked over and maybe a top end overhaul before shelling out the thick end of £9k on a replacement. You would likely get between £1-1,5k for the old one. I sold my Perkins M3 (same as Volvo 2040) for £1500, but that was a good runner. However 2030s with straight boxes (rather than saildrives) are sought after because they can be refurbished easily and are good replacements for the earlier 2003s.

 

[eddystone]

Regarding the assertion that there is not much to choose between brands (other than price) is it not the case that the Yanmar and Volvo are common rail and depend on electronics whereas the Beta isn’t. I’ve not heard of this causing problems on the Yanmar but didn’t Volvo have a batch of faulty ECUs?
Pretty sure NVH is at least as much to do with installation/housing as the engine itself
The H/E anode on the Beta (my 30 to be specific) is so accessible it would be no effort to check it far more regularly than the mandatory 6months.
I would have thought where your boat is moored is a big factor in how often to clean out the matrix. I’ve averaged every other year but that might not be enough in say Portsmouth Harbour.
BTW my own experience of the Featherstream is that the anode needs replacing every 6months, 8 months tops.

 

[Tranona]

Regarding the assertion that there is not much to choose between brands (other than price) is it not the case that the Yanmar and Volvo are common rail and depend on electronics whereas the Beta isn’t. I’ve not heard of this causing problems on the Yanmar but didn’t Volvo have a batch of faulty ECUs?

No, none of them are, although Yanmar have recently introduced common rail in the 40hp+ range. Volvo do not have ECUs. but since around 2006 have used an electronic device known a MDI to connect the engine electrics and sensors to their electronic control panel. Not the best bit of design, primarily because it is mounted on the engine and does not like the heat and vibration leading to some failures in the circuitry. However this was only for a limited production period between 2014-8 and all units were replaced under a recall - although before the "fix" came through many owners had problems. Having said that, I had no problems with my (2015) D1 30 for the 6 years I had it and the MDI was replaced FOC by Volvo. Many owners in that period created a by pass so the engine could be started with a button if the MDI failed.

All the base engines are Japanese industrial engines and when you look at their specs you find they are all much the same - capacity, power curves, fuel consumption and physical size. The main differences are in the location of service items and the marinisation, principally the seawater pump and the heat exchanger.

BTW the price of each is within +/- 5% depending on detailed spec. Have just had prices for all 4 brands. Biggest problem is actually getting one. My beta 30 is currently somewhere on the road between Gloucester and Poole having been ordered a t the end of March!

 

[gregcope]

@Tranona i would be interested in the spec you have gone for (exhaust, alternator, etc…).

 

[Tranona]

High rise exhaust (not convinced it is necessary but installer says so!). Standard 70A alternator. No need for the option 120A unless you have a huge battery bank which you need rapid charging from heavily discharged. Optional control panel ABVW. TMC40 2.6:1 reduction because I am fitting a 17" Featherstream. Don't know what prop you have, but the Beta is RH whereas I think your Volvo is LH so you will have to change it unless you go for the PRM 125 which I think will run either way. If you have a 2:1 TMC you will probably need to go to a smaller prop as the Volvo reduction (MS 10) is 2.35:1 so shaft speed will increase 1800rpm rather than 1530rpm.
Hope this helps.

 

[gavin400]

Here is my new Beta 30 to replace a Volvo MD2B

Standard alternator, offset high rise exhaust, deluxe panel
Don't know what the gearbox is but a new prop required, also a bigger raw water intake and a larger dia. exhaust and water trap
The shaft is slightly too short so an extension 'bobbin' and a new shaft coupling

I am also replacing the traditional stuffing box with A PSS seal

Its all beginning to add up £ wise!

 

[gregcope]

High rise exhaust (not convinced it is necessary but installer says so!). Standard 70A alternator. No need for the option 120A unless you have a huge battery bank which you need rapid charging from heavily discharged. Optional control panel ABVW. TMC40 2.6:1 reduction because I am fitting a 17" Featherstream. Don't know what prop you have, but the Beta is RH whereas I think your Volvo is LH so you will have to change it unless you go for the PRM 125 which I think will run either way. If you have a 2:1 TMC you will probably need to go to a smaller prop as the Volvo reduction (MS 10) is 2.35:1 so shaft speed will increase 1800rpm rather than 1530rpm.
Hope this helps.

Thanks. Yes, will need a new prop due to different reduction and rotation.

I have made a lithium setup so either i need a lifepo4 settable regulator or will stick with a standard one and use the B2B.

 

[Beneteau381]

Thanks @TNLI for the cox link.

An engineer has said it has low compression on two of three cylinders. It also makes a mechanical clicking sound which could be a valve issue.

So its a head issue or worse!

Sounds like you have had water ingress into one or two cylinders at the back? You go to start it and the valves are either corroded or stuck since you last ran it. It partially fires and the exhaust comes out of the intake.
Caused by partially blocked exhaust elbow?
Head off first to see what has happned
Give me a bell to discuss if you like. 07967 313792

 

[gregcope]

Here is my new Beta 30 to replace a Volvo MD2B

Standard alternator, offset high rise exhaust, deluxe panel
Don't know what the gearbox is but a new prop required, also a bigger raw water intake and a larger dia. exhaust and water trap
The shaft is slightly too short so an extension 'bobbin' and a new shaft coupling

I am also replacing the traditional stuffing box with A PSS seal

Its all beginning to add up £ wise!

Thanks. I have copy volvo shaft seal that works well. Mine has the vent.

i have a quote to also replace the raw water intake and exhaust. These are all 25yrs old so might be worth replacing.

sorry to hear your shaft is too short!

 

[gregcope]

Engineer has had the head off. Rear cyclinder (three) has water damaged bores… so beyond economical repair.

due to lead times, this season may be yet another write off…

 

[Beneteau381]

Engineer has had the head off. Rear cyclinder (three) has water damaged bores… so beyond economical repair.

due to lead times, this season may be yet another write off…

Not necessarily so. A light hone might cure it. A rebuild kit from parts4engines is only circa £400
as i said, give me a bell?