best wiring labels

oldvarnish

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After some good advice from my 'best connections' thread, I thought I might gather some opinions on the best way to label wiring.

I've seen those 'numbers' you can slide on, but I'm looking for something that tells me straight away what the wire is so I can look at it and see "AIS", or "JACUZZI" etc.
 
Dymo make Rhino label printers with a choice of label tape. They are purpose designed for wrapping around cables, either lengthwise or as a 'flag'. RS Components sell them without any minimum order size. They also do heatshrink tape which can be printed on and then shrunk around the cable. Starts to get expensive but certainly the most durable.
 
Print label either with dymo machine or just self adhesive paper.
Cover with clear heatshrink.

It is now possible to buy a heatshrink printing labeler at a fraction of what they were a couple of years ago, not really valid for a small job but really worthwhile on a big cabling project, I favour the Kroy, but this is only £40 with a three year warranty http://www.printersandlabels.co.uk/portable-printers-c-60_61/ksun-labelshopreg-bee3-heatshrink-and-label-printer-p-1307.html?gclid=CJzLyM--n8gCFUGx2wodmQQDCQ
 
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I have a Dymo Letratag label printer, a good bit of kit and I'd think fine for internal wiring; just a word of warning for other uses onboard, the labels don't like sunlight and go brown !
 
Whereas Brother laminated labels do not, neither do they slide on the wires. Surprised no one has mentioned them.
You do have to get the UV Resistant TZ tape for the Brother machine.



are very good and don't fade - my wife bought it for garden labels but it's used almost exclusively on our boat!
 
I have a Brother TZ machine:

prodzoomimg2947.jpg


I did the labels for Kindred Spirit in "flag" style, wrapped around the cable and stuck to itself. But after a couple of years they started coming unstuck. On Ariam, I used the narrower 6mm tape stuck lengthwise along the cable and then covered with clear heatshrink - this doesn't rely on the label adhesive and looks very professional.

I have labels in the engine bay and on deck (on running-rigging clutches) and they show no signs of fading or turning black.

Pete
 
I have a Brother TZ machine:

prodzoomimg2947.jpg


I did the labels for Kindred Spirit in "flag" style, wrapped around the cable and stuck to itself. But after a couple of years they started coming unstuck. On Ariam, I used the narrower 6mm tape stuck lengthwise along the cable and then covered with clear heatshrink - this doesn't rely on the label adhesive and looks very professional.

I have labels in the engine bay and on deck (on running-rigging clutches) and they show no signs of fading or turning black.

Pete

TZ wiring tape,extra flexible, is available. http://www.labelzone.co.uk/tz-fx211-6mm-black-on-white-flexi-tape/p187
 
It is now possible to buy a heatshrink printing labeler at a fraction of what they were a couple of years ago, not really valid for a small job but really worthwhile on a big cabling project, I favour the Kroy, but this is only £40 with a three year warranty http://www.printersandlabels.co.uk/portable-printers-c-60_61/ksun-labelshopreg-bee3-heatshrink-and-label-printer-p-1307.html?gclid=CJzLyM--n8gCFUGx2wodmQQDCQ

Thanks for that, have suggested my client buys one.
May I'll be able to borrow it...

One thing I sometimes do is just slip on a couple of coloured rings of heatshrink, or even white or black self-amalgamating tape.
Coloured cable ties can also identify groups in a loom, like 'engine', 'lights', 'instruments'.
I keep an A4 log book of things like wiring diags, spare part numbers, write it all down and photograph it with your phone if your memory is like mine.
 
I find the printer lables fade after a few years, I am a masking tape and felt tip man, still readable after 30 years.
 
Thanks for that, have suggested my client buys one.
May I'll be able to borrow it...

One thing I sometimes do is just slip on a couple of coloured rings of heatshrink, or even white or black self-amalgamating tape.
Coloured cable ties can also identify groups in a loom, like 'engine', 'lights', 'instruments'.
I keep an A4 log book of things like wiring diags, spare part numbers, write it all down and photograph it with your phone if your memory is like mine.

Me too. I use 4 rings standard colour coded from the cable end. The first ring defines the source breaker, the second the master terminal panel choc block (don't start - it has stainless screws!) and the third and fourth the pin.

The scheme needs a reference chart but wherever a cable is, it is possible to find its source.
 
I remember many years ago working on prototype sonar arrays with 1000s of cables. The wiremen used yellow heat shrink and a marker pen. Write on first then shrink. worked a treat and cheap (ish).
Have recently tided my garage and cam across an old car wiring loom. I had written on masking tape with a felt pen to remind me what went where. that must have been 30 years ago. Still looking good. Stoaty, you are right. May not be pretty but it works!
 
I find the printer lables fade after a few years, I am a masking tape and felt tip man, still readable after 30 years.

Some labels don't fade, though, and some felt tips do. I've definitely had handwritten marks where the ink had faded to a barely discernible (and certainly unreadable) shadow.

I'd avoid anything involving thermal paper, they fade in no time, but the TZ printers work by fusing some kind of black plastic onto the tape and then sticking a clear cover over the top.

Pete
 
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