Hacker
Well-Known Member
We clean our brushes out in 3 consecutive acetone baths. They get reused usually at least 4 times with no problem.
Best price for epoxy in bulk?
- Thread starter Kelpie
- Start date
vas
Well-Known Member
the price for the sponge roller things I used to use was cheaper down here than the cost of acetone/isopropyl/whatever I tried to clean them with, so went to the throw away route. Didn't seem to use many brushes though, mainly 80mm long rollers
guardian
Well-Known Member
Cheers for the link, i've been looking for a replacement epoxy since reactive resins went tits up, what would you recommend on their list for filleting and laminating or is it a case of getting separate products by application, the prices look great too!destroyer dinghy most likely
I used approx 60lt of epoxy during my 43ft ply mobo rebuilt over a period of 4yrs.
20lt seems a bit much, no?
I've used a local co which is strangely selling 95% of its wares abroad. Have a look maybe interesting
www.fibermaxcomposites.com
cheers
V.
Roger
lw395
Well-Known Member
I've cleaned brushes used for WEST and SP with a high tech formulation known as 'Fairy Liquid'.
But throw-away brushes are pretty cheap by the dozen.
vas
Well-Known Member
have to go through my notes (somewhere...) but most of my work was scarf joints in 15-18mm marine ply and other "glueing" together with screwing panels/things down to frames.
I used A LOT of 481 iirc as it's the cheapest general purpose one they have for soaking mat over ply.
I tried various for glueing and tested them with microbubbles, and some other powder looking substances he's selling.
I generally only had problems (as in creating nice smooth paste) when I tried to create thickened epoxy to fill gaps and glue things together, but it worked and the living proof is that the boat is still floating after 5yrs
I also used some higher cost ones 93something iirc diluted with isopropyl to soak old timber (iroko in my case) and prepare before glueing things on it. sort of custom CPES
DISCLAIMER: that was a diy restoration project done here from 2011-15 (finishing work still going on) I've been "flamed" occasionally in here that I'm not doing things properly, so I'm not to be hold responsible for what you do, nor have I any interest in trying to prove that what I've done is right - don't care, life's too short!
Guy is 5m from Volos where I live, know him personally (after all these years) happy to ask something specific, or see if there's a cheaper option to ship liquids up there. Just let me know.
cheers
V.
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
When i used solvent epoxy for my boat refurb i used cleaner for the brushes ( still have some) but obviously not rollers. I also had a special hand cleaner. I could not clean rollers but as they were only 4 inch this was not a big dealyep, with solvent based, you practically throw away the kit you've used each day
guardian
Well-Known Member
Yeah no worries, know what you mean about being flamed on here, christ i could write book on it. I saw a UK address on their site and thought they were based in UK, if you could ask anyway what he recommends for Sheathing / Filleting & bonding that'd be great. Gave up on Wests years ago.have to go through my notes (somewhere...) but most of my work was scarf joints in 15-18mm marine ply and other "glueing" together with screwing panels/things down to frames.
I used A LOT of 481 iirc as it's the cheapest general purpose one they have for soaking mat over ply.
I tried various for glueing and tested them with microbubbles, and some other powder looking substances he's selling.
I generally only had problems (as in creating nice smooth paste) when I tried to create thickened epoxy to fill gaps and glue things together, but it worked and the living proof is that the boat is still floating after 5yrs
I also used some higher cost ones 93something iirc diluted with isopropyl to soak old timber (iroko in my case) and prepare before glueing things on it. sort of custom CPES
DISCLAIMER: that was a diy restoration project done here from 2011-15 (finishing work still going on) I've been "flamed" occasionally in here that I'm not doing things properly, so I'm not to be hold responsible for what you do, nor have I any interest in trying to prove that what I've done is right - don't care, life's too short!
Guy is 5m from Volos where I live, know him personally (after all these years) happy to ask something specific, or see if there's a cheaper option to ship liquids up there. Just let me know.
cheers
V.
Cheers
Kelpie
Well-Known Member
Vas
Those prices look unbeatable. If there was another way of getting some resin shipped back to the UK he would be getting a lot of business...
Those prices look unbeatable. If there was another way of getting some resin shipped back to the UK he would be getting a lot of business...
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
Why would one give up on West? The product works & I found the support excellent
guardian
Well-Known Member
Its beyond useless to work with in cold temps unless you want big bills heating the stuff, super expensive and requires a lot of processing in anything other than perfect conditions certainly compared to other brands i've used. Wests is the epitome of what large advertising and marketting campaigns can achieve like sika et al.
FWIW i gave away half a 'c' pack (2 gallons) free to a mate of mine such is my dislike of wests. Compared to system three, mas and of course the late great reactive resins syntac system, (now that was a joy to use anytime of the year) wests is a waste of money.
Bajansailor
Well-Known Member
Plank, have you got any contact details for Danny Greene re plans for his dinghies?
I built myself a smaller version (7'10" long) 20 years ago - I didn't have his plan, I just worked off a wee drawing in a study plan I came across and worked up my own design using a DOS program called Plyboats (which sadly does not exist anymore).
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
I used it through 2 winters with great success & found no problems whatsoever. Great product.