Best paint for cockpit lockers?

ash2020

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Any recommendations for paint for cockpit and anchor lockers? We've done one with white smooth Hammerite which goes on well, dries very quickly and is very durable, but I just Googled it and it seems everyone says NOOOOOO!
 

Alfie168

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Any recommendations for paint for cockpit and anchor lockers? We've done one with white smooth Hammerite which goes on well, dries very quickly and is very durable, but I just Googled it and it seems everyone says NOOOOOO!

Hammerite must have changed its chemistry as the original needed thinners to dilute it and I believe the current Hammerite paint is water based. It's worth checking whether this is the case as the suitability of each type for certain surfaces will differ.

I'm sure there will be a technical help line as the brand is now owned by Akzo-Nobel since 2008.
 

Refueler

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Hammerite must have changed its chemistry as the original needed thinners to dilute it and I believe the current Hammerite paint is water based. It's worth checking whether this is the case as the suitability of each type for certain surfaces will differ.

I'm sure there will be a technical help line as the brand is now owned by Akzo-Nobel since 2008.


I have a large range of Hammerite on my bench and they are all 'Spirit based' for thinners ... none are water based that I have .... age of tins ranges from late 2021 back to about 2015 .....

But anyway - I painted my lockers last year at start of season using standard house enamel paint to clean non-primed GRP. Year later still look good after a lot of abuse.

As some already know - I'm not one to waste money on a Tin Label ... it may interest some to actually read the labels fully as to what type / form the paint is and compare to various other paints not Marine Labelled ....
 

Caer Urfa

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If you are buying anything with 'marine paint' on the tin you must be rich,

Buy garage floor paint, waterproof, oil proof grease proof and hard wearing, used it for years including the engine bay and available in many colors, (light grey is good)
 

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Elessar

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Any recommendations for paint for cockpit and anchor lockers? We've done one with white smooth Hammerite which goes on well, dries very quickly and is very durable, but I just Googled it and it seems everyone says NOOOOOO!
If it’s not been painted already, flow coat. Thicker, tougher and easier to clean.

Once painted though you can’t flow coat. Then I like hempel.
 

Alfie168

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I have a large range of Hammerite on my bench and they are all 'Spirit based' for thinners ... none are water based that I have .... age of tins ranges from late 2021 back to about 2015 .....

But anyway - I painted my lockers last year at start of season using standard house enamel paint to clean non-primed GRP. Year later still look good after a lot of abuse.

As some already know - I'm not one to waste money on a Tin Label ... it may interest some to actually read the labels fully as to what type / form the paint is and compare to various other paints not Marine Labelled ....

It seems they still offer the solvent based paint but that most of their recent paints are water based such as Hammerite Ultima.
 

reeac

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I'm a great fan of Danboline. About 15 years ago I was wondering whether it's merits were at the expense of poor resistance to UV as there would be no need for that in a bilge paint. As an experiment I painted a rainwater down pipe in a South facing direction with white Danboline .... remained pristine for 15 years at which point I decided to change the colour for artistic reasons.
 

Jim@sea

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I was spraying 2 Pack paint on cars and hand painting boat hulls with the stuff from around 1982 Before International Paints introduced 2 pack paint for boats.
OK it can be dangerous if you inhale it.
In 1983 I had to paint the bilges in a Nauticat 33. The engine in a Nauticat 33 was a Perkins, and the bilges were painted to the same colour. I thought that painting the bilges with 2 pack paint instead of Damboline would make for a stringer coating and thats what I used. You have to watch out for fumes though.
I also hand painted the Nauticat hull (under the waterline) with 2 Pack Ford Ambassador Blue.
I have painted another 2 boat hulls with the stuff. Although in 1982 rollers had not been invented.
For white hulls and the inside of lockers I use Ford Diamond White which is very close to Gell Coat White,
I also use Acetone as the thinners.
But that's just me.
And its 59 years since I did my first respray (Cellulose obviously)
 

Refueler

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I knew quite a few International ... Jotun .... and other paint guys from Dry-Docking ships and the one fact that was universal : Paints are paints. You can give them a fancy label and all sorts of hype. But in reality - the format of most paints crosses application borders with very little change.
ie Enamel is Enamel .... Alkyd is Alkyd .... Emulsion is Emulsion .... Chlorinated Rubber is Chlorinated Rubber ........... etc. etc.

As already posted ......... read the label and what the paint is made up from ..... then compare to local B&Q / Home Depot / Wickes ............
 

dankilb

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I'm always reluctant to shell out for International, but Danboline is undoubtedly lovely stuff to apply and even a couple of coats seems to wear well. I would try garage floor paint, but our bilges and lockers are white/off-white - which isn't commonly found in floor paint!
 

Seashoreman

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I'm always reluctant to shell out for International, but Danboline is undoubtedly lovely stuff to apply and even a couple of coats seems to wear well. I would try garage floor paint, but our bilges and lockers are white/off-white - which isn't commonly found in floor paint!
I use this as an alternative. Seems to last well and very similar application to International. But then I am no expert.
Flag Bilge Paint Off White 1 Litre FMB1000 (seamarknunn.com)
 

alahol2

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I knew quite a few International ... Jotun .... and other paint guys from Dry-Docking ships and the one fact that was universal : Paints are paints. You can give them a fancy label and all sorts of hype. But in reality - the format of most paints crosses application borders with very little change.
ie Enamel is Enamel .... Alkyd is Alkyd .... Emulsion is Emulsion .... Chlorinated Rubber is Chlorinated Rubber ........... etc. etc.

As already posted ......... read the label and what the paint is made up from ..... then compare to local B&Q / Home Depot / Wickes ............

I'd be very interested to know what 'class' of paint Danboline would fall into.
Can anyone tell from the Danboline MSDS what it is?
 

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ash2020

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Hammerite must have changed its chemistry as the original needed thinners to dilute it and I believe the current Hammerite paint is water based. It's worth checking whether this is the case as the suitability of each type for certain surfaces will differ.

I'm sure there will be a technical help line as the brand is now owned by Akzo-Nobel since 2008.
Definitely still thinners based, not water based.
 

ash2020

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I knew quite a few International ... Jotun .... and other paint guys from Dry-Docking ships and the one fact that was universal : Paints are paints. You can give them a fancy label and all sorts of hype. But in reality - the format of most paints crosses application borders with very little change.
ie Enamel is Enamel .... Alkyd is Alkyd .... Emulsion is Emulsion .... Chlorinated Rubber is Chlorinated Rubber ........... etc. etc.

As already posted ......... read the label and what the paint is made up from ..... then compare to local B&Q / Home Depot / Wickes ............
I totally agree. I can't see what difference the surface makes, apart from the mechanical key. Why should metal be any different to wood, or GRP?
 

Alfie168

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Definitely still thinners based, not water based.

I refer the honourable gent to the following. The truth is they do both, but the tide of environmental legislation (see what I did there.. ;) ) is inevitably running towards water based product, in this case an acrylic paint.

Hammerite Ultima Smooth

They also do a water based metals primer and many of their rust remover products have changed from phosphoric acid to citric acid as it is less harmful (and arguably not quite good as I used loads last year)

And as a supplementary question seeing as I do have misgivings about using organic products in general, and particularly if close to water courses or the sea. Has anybody had any success with a water based product ?
 
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